OUCH - Page 2 - Montana Owners Club

Glenn and Lorraine · 10-01-2009, 01:43 PM

I always back in like the big rigs. The pin box touches the hitch plate at about mid point. I continue backing forcing the pin box to slide up the hitch plate and when the pin gets into place the automatic gear driven latch locks into place. My Pullrite Superglide is over 6 years old and I have never had a significant wear problem.

Click here to view this latching mechanism in action

For those that attended the Pullrite seminar know what I am talking about.

BTW, Pullrite uses this same mechanism on all of there 5er hitches not just the Superglide.

I am so sure of this POSITIVE latching mechanism that I rarely do a pull test.

bob n pam · 10-01-2009, 01:48 PM

Paul and Jan, glad you are okay and that this happened at the rest area not on the road.

PSFORD99 · 10-01-2009, 02:51 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

I am part of the "Been there, Done that!" club. Happened to us in June of this year. Interestingly enough, we also have a Reese hitch - the Signature Series 18K. It caused over $8,000 in damage (combined) to the truck and trailer. I went to nearest RV dealer and between the tech and myself found out what happened. The Reese instructions state the safety pin cannot be inserted unless the jaw is locked in place. This is NOT true. My trailer was hooked up, the jaw closed, and the safety pin in place. The tech and I discovered that the release handle can be back about an inch and the safety pin will go in to place, but the hitch is not locked! There is a 'flag' that is supposed to block the safety pin hole when the hitch isn't locked, and show when the hitch is locked. My 'flag' wasn't showing, but as I stated, the pin went into place. I spent three days trying to contact Reese (they don't return phone calls) and when I was finally successful, they were no help at all.

I now have a Blue-Ox bed saver!

I have the same hitch ,You are right if the handle is back an inch ,yes you can put the locking pin in, but its not going thru anything except the hole in the handle, and no the jaw is not closed ALL the way. If the handle is closed ALL the way the jaw will be closed all the way ,and there is no way they cannot be unless something is broke, the two are connected to one another. The flag can only be pushed back by the hitch pin thus allowing the locking pin to be inserted in the two aligning holes. The mistake that can be made and that is what is sounds like you made is that the hitch pin can push the flag out of the way yet the handle may hang up about an inch thus allowing the locking pin to be inserted, but its going thru the hole in the handle, and into an empty space under the handle instead of thru the plate with the hole that the flag was covering. There has been times for whatever reason the handle does not close all the way, I have had it happen , but what I have always done is look to see if the two holes are lined up, and if not I just hit it with the palm of my hand and it goes in all the way, and I insert the locking pin. It will NOT come undone if the locking pin is thru both holes. The handle is locked in place and no where to go unless something breaks. A further note if Reese would extend that underneath plate the would prevent the locking pin from having a place to go it would hit the top of the plate and stop.

On edit when I get a chance I will post pictures of a DIY bedsaver that I fabricated for the ones that would be interested in fabricating one of there own.

Mudchief · 10-01-2009, 02:57 PM

Glad no one was hurt.

PSFORD99 · 10-01-2009, 03:17 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Glenn and Lorraine

I always back in like the big rigs. The pin box touches the hitch plate at about mid point. I continue backing forcing the pin box to slide up the hitch plate and when the pin gets into place the automatic gear driven latch locks into place. My Pullrite Superglide is over 6 years old and I have never had a significant wear problem.

Click here to view this latching mechanism in action

For those that attended the Pullrite seminar know what I am talking about.

BTW, Pullrite uses this same mechanism on all of there 5er hitches not just the Superglide.

I am so sure of this POSITIVE latching mechanism that I rarely do a pull test.

I have the reese signature, when the handle is in, and the two holes are aligned, and locking pin is inserted I am sure of this positive latching system, but I always do a pull test. My reasoning is its a mechanical device , and like any mechanical device they are subject to failure. I hitch the same as you I believe that is the only real correct way to hitch.As far as pull test goes its NEVER a bad idea to do it every time.

Every hitch made has a POSITIVE locking device, not just Pullright . Some may be more simple to hitch than others ,but its the up to us to do it correctly, and when we don't we drop fivers on trucks

sreigle · 10-01-2009, 03:28 PM

Ouch, Jan and Paul. I'm sure sorry you had this problem but I'm also glad it was not while on the road at speed, as you mentioned.

Thankfully there were no injuries.

jpkelpe · 10-01-2009, 04:00 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Drifty1

I have the 16k Reese slider. I would like to know what I am not seeing when I hook up. I leave the latch closed and the 5th wheel about 1" lower then the plate when I back under. When backing I line up on line with pin as I don't like to side stress the landing gear,when the rig comes up on the plate the locking lever opens up then closes around the pin. Then I give it a little tug while leaving the chocks in. I can see the locking dogs around the back of the pin but is there something I can't see if front of the pin.

That is the way they told us to make sure we do, which is the way we have been doing. There is a place in the front of the jaws, if you look closely but you can't see it when it hooks up. it is supposed to be a loud "clunk" when the jaws close.

jpkelpe · 10-01-2009, 04:13 PM

We had put in the "pin" into the holes of the latch on the handle, however we did find it on the truck bed and the metal "pin keeper" has a clasp like fastened that had partially separated from the pin. It seems that if the latch had bounced up to let the handle release the jaws it would not have been down on the handle and the jaws closed after this all happened.

When we get back to Omaha Paul is going to talk to the place that installed it and see what they say. We plan on getting a bed saver but there is no bed to save now so that is why we didn't have it done yesterday. We did buy a new hitch head because the techs agreed that it may not be safe to continue using the old one, even though no broken parts were found.

PSFORD99 · 10-01-2009, 04:19 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by jpkelpe

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Drifty1

I have the 16k Reese slider. I would like to know what I am not seeing when I hook up. I leave the latch closed and the 5th wheel about 1" lower then the plate when I back under. When backing I line up on line with pin as I don't like to side stress the landing gear,when the rig comes up on the plate the locking lever opens up then closes around the pin. Then I give it a little tug while leaving the chocks in. I can see the locking dogs around the back of the pin but is there something I can't see if front of the pin.

That is the way they told us to make sure we do, which is the way we have been doing. There is a place in the front of the jaws, if you look closely but you can't see it when it hooks up. it is supposed to be a loud "clunk" when the jaws close.

My old hitch was the 16K Reese slider, and the jaws open and close when backing in, and the handle closes, then you flip the locking lever in place over the handle, and you are locked. I too do not like to push down to much on the hitch thus putting some strain on the landing gear, I do try to get the two as even as possible or the hitch pin a fraction of an inch lower than the hitch to prevent a lot of stress while hitching ,but yet not having a chance of high hitching, and I ALWAYS do a a pull test with the landing gear just slightly off the ground.

Drifty1 · 10-01-2009, 04:24 PM

Jpkelpe thanks for the input. I will be out there on Big Red in the AM. Looking the front side of the hitch. I like to know how they work so I can nip the problem in the BUTT! I watch my arm when hooking up to make sure it slides out then goes back in and locks. This is a very good post as many folks could have this problem. My occupation is a steamfitter so I like to know how things operate. I always try to upgrade items on my rig.
Thank for the info. And glad you didn't have very much damage to your rig.
Larry in Olympia

farmboy · 10-01-2009, 04:40 PM

The manual with my 16k Reese say do not lower into hitch ,but back in with handle closed, much like the big rigs do. They make books to be read.

richfaa · 10-02-2009, 03:34 AM

Big rig drivers may have a bit more experience than the average rv'er. I have seen folks back into the hitch with the locking lever closed'......Bang. have seen folks back in and be serveral inches left or right..oh well it will force its way in...bang..bent landing gear. have seen folks back in so high they missed the hitch completly and so low they banged into the hitch low.....bang. We take a longer than ususal time to hitch as we position the pin in the center of the jaws then lower the hitch on to the hitch plate...then back in. Remember we can not see the hitch or hitch pin from the truck. We try to remove and chance of error ..time is cheap...so far so good. Backing into the hitch is the recommended way of hitching IF the Rv'er knows how to hitch properly.. Far too many do not.

Lambchop · 10-02-2009, 03:51 AM

I've watched hundreds of RVer's hitching their 5th wheels through the years. Interesting but very Few of them do a pull test! Yes,I also have seen a few bent truck boxes.
This topic will give something to worry about while towing, along with the tires.
Hopefully we will get an answer about hitch failure.

Roy

8e3k0 · 10-02-2009, 03:53 AM

If you use you inside rear view mirror on a normal pick-up this will allow direct centering for pin to jaws as you come into your hitch. Should be able to see hitch box sides and pin box on trailer. Don't try and turn your head to look back as an angle throws the perceived alignment off every time and tendancy is to always steer in the wrong direction.. Mirrors work best every time for us. On the big rigs you use both right and left mirrors to center that pin to hitch. Its the goose neck ball that is way down in the box that is ugly to line up especially on uneven ground. Practice makes perfect.

richfaa · 10-02-2009, 05:48 AM

Unfortunately. The rolled up bed cover blocks my view. My neck needs to be @ 4 inches longer or I need to need to be much taller. The Mor Ryde extended pin box renders the handy dandy mirror useless. I do have a jury rigged system of tape and arrows that allows me to line up and back into the hitch using the mirror...if necessary.. AAhh the joys of Rv'ing.

FRED S · 10-02-2009, 08:43 AM

Sorry to hear of this incident Paul.
After having delivered fuel to truck stops for 6+years one of the first things we were taught was to NEVER leave a truck stop or rest area without dooing a tug test. I have seen a couple of incidents of 5th wheels beeing unlocked while the trucks were unattended which resulted in dropped trailers. I personally wont travel without a locked padlock in place, also having a Reese 16K older style 5th wheel.
Fred

blarkman · 10-02-2009, 08:47 AM

I have a tool box that prevents seeing the hitch so I painted a white stripe on the pin box and also one one the top of the tool box. I also have a small line on rear view mirror. So I now have three points to line up, so pin is centered in hitch. It sound complicated but is real easy and best of all I can see it on inside miror
bob

c214dick · 10-02-2009, 12:58 PM

Louise and I are sorry to hear about your "accident". Yesterday we installed a new Reese 20k replacing our 7 year old 16k slider. We had been experiencing some chucking when we were either stopping our pulling out with the old one. The new hitch has a locking mechanism similar to Pull Rite and we really like the tightness and no more chucking.

We did have some problems with the alignment of the holes for pinning after we hooked up. After a couple of times we found that if we backed in a little more aggressively everything lined up properly. I am convinced now that we will add the pull test to our routine before raising the front jacks.

Good luck in the future and maybe we can "hook up" the next time we are on our way west to Colorado.

mail2us · 10-04-2009, 03:44 AM

Jan and Paul, we are hopeful that all will get straightened out and that you both are safe. I am certain these type accidents are lurking for us all and we are glad you were able to continue on.

Delaine and Lindy · 10-04-2009, 04:55 AM

We have a rear camera on our Freightliner, but its not working now but its a great tool even on most Pick-ups. I also have seen hundreds of RVer's that didn't do a pull test???? They are a accident waiting to happen and a very costly one also. There has been loss of life because of a 5th wheel falling on a person because the 5th wheel rolled back and fell on the person. Some 5th wheel hitches can have the pin installed without being properly attached to the king pin. I have the rear jaws painted white and its very eash to see if the jaws are wraped aroung the king pin. I always do a pull test. I have been in hundred of Truck Stops and never have witnessed a trailer being dropped because someone pull a handle on the 5th wheel hitch, however I have heard the same stories. However in most cases you can put a lock on the handle. Do the pull test and don't drop the trailer. GBY......

P.S. Jan and Paul sorry to hear about situation, no one was hurt and the 5th wheel can be repaired. IMHO your problem was possibly a high hitch. Good Luck.

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