Disk Brakes...... WOW

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by ROMEO MONTANA

I have a 3711FL and want to do this conversion. Almost lost the whole rig this past weekend. Somebody cut me off and slammed on the brakes to make the exit. My 5ver just about went through my truck. Luckily, the SH that cut me off seen I couldn't stop and stepped off the side. Where can I get this done in the Detroit area?

MORryde is only about 200 miles west from Detroit. http://www.rvnews.com/article.php?id=1019

[prndl]

I have subscribed to this thread for a long time. I am finally going to bite the bullet and install the disk brakes.

I do have a question regarding hard tubing all the way to the calipers vs a rubber hose to the calipers.

Hard tubing, it is said will restrict movement of the caliper on the mount as well as making it harder to change out the pads in the future.

Flexible hose would be the answer but what about if you have a blowout and debris rips off the rubber flex hose? You would loose your entire trailer brake system.

At least with the electric brakes you would still have three wheels worth of brakes. With the hard line you might also have a better chance of retaining the fluid in the system.

Not at that point with the installation but am wondering which way to go.

[Montana Man]

No doubt disk brakes work well on trailers. Short of that I put EBC brakes on my Ram TV and have much improved braking hitched and unhitched for $1100.

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by Judy Liggon

It was suggested by a mechanic friend that if there is a leak it would pool in the underbelly and wouldn't notice a problem until it became a big problem. You really can't see the lines unless you stoop down and look. Also he said, if it's the look just spray the line black or cover with tubing.

That is double talk but actually saying I am more concerned with doing this job quickly than doing a clean, safer installation.

[dieselguy]

I'm not a fan of all rubber line. I did this install last year on another rv brand with nickle/copper brake lines and 18" hose connecting each caliper. I see no issue with the hose as there is hose on the front brakes of your truck and your car that could see the same fate you're worried about should a tire go. You can't worry about 100% of the what if's ... life will pass you by.

[Dave W]

I'm not a lover of all rubber lines but ended up with several so --- gotta say that they work just fine. I have a rubber hose at the actuator through the battery compartment floor, another at the frame step and more at the calipers. You do need rubber lines at the calipers as they are what is considered 'full floating' in that both sides of the caliper move along a slider bolt.



There are many different lengths of the rubber hoses or kits made by Kodiak, all of which are DOT certified. If that's the way you go, just make sure that you measure well and get the correct end fittings. If you choose steel lines, makes sure that your double flaring shills and tools are good enough. I've made literally hundreds of brake line double flares with nary a problem but doing the brakes on our 5er proved to be a challenge.

[mhs4771]

I don't see how you could put solid lines to the calipers. With MORryde IS you have approx 5" of wheel travel, so how would that work with a solid connection?

[prndl]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

I don't see how you could put solid lines to the calipers. With MORryde IS you have approx 5" of wheel travel, so how would that work with a solid connection?

I don't have IS

[AZ Traveler]

Even without IS you have several inches of travel.

[beeje]

The solid lines on mine are from wheel to wheel/caliper to caliper. There is a block/tee around 8" or so from the passenger side wheel which goes to the frame with rubber.

I fully understand that the calipers are free floating and move a bit, however there is plenty of slack in the lines for them to move.

I do not see an issue with taking out the rubber lines if they are routed away from the calipers towards the center of the axle as opposed to going straight up. Most if not all of the blowout debris will be flung outward because of the centrifugal force.

The only real issue I have is when it comes time to replace the pads, I'm not sure it can be done leaving the hard lines in place to the calipers. I guess I'm going to find out someday.

[prndl]

Finished the install today and went for a test ride. The OP is right on ....WOW what a difference. Smooth sure stop without lockup or fade. Glad I did the disk brakes.

[beeje]

Yes, it is a night and day difference. Anyone reading this tread should just bite the bullet and do it. I am ABSOLUTLY confident you will be impressed with the results.

[Chaseurs]

I'm gearing up to put disc brakes on my 2011 3000RK. I've watched every video I can find, and read a bunch of these posts. I've discovered a significant hurdle, though. In all the videos I've seen, the installer fishes the wires from the BACK of the pin box directly back to the battery compartment. My pinbox is solid on the back and has a hole on the drivers side that the wires currently go through. Anyone faced this situation or have any ideas how to get my plumbers tape from this hole back to the battery compartment so I can fish the wires from one place to the other??
Got a photo to share, but unable to get it to attach.



BTW: I really appreciate everyone on this site. Hearing how you all manage your 5er issues is very helpful.

thanks
Doug

[prndl]

I recently installed disk brakes and did not add any wires to the harness..
Earlier I removed the useless backup lights on the montana and installed four super bright led brake lights.
When I put on the hydraulic brake pump I used the old backup light wire from the pin box for the wire now required for the hydraulic pump.

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by Chaseurs

I'm gearing up to put disc brakes on my 2011 3000RK. I've watched every video I can find, and read a bunch of these posts. I've discovered a significant hurdle, though. In all the videos I've seen, the installer fishes the wires from the BACK of the pin box directly back to the battery compartment. My pinbox is solid on the back and has a hole on the drivers side that the wires currently go through. Anyone faced this situation or have any ideas how to get my plumbers tape from this hole back to the battery compartment so I can fish the wires from one place to the other??
Got a photo to share, but unable to get it to attach.



BTW: I really appreciate everyone on this site. Hearing how you all manage your 5er issues is very helpful.

thanks
Doug

Doug, I seriously lucked out when I did mine. I pushed my fish tape into the wire loom, and it came out in the propane compartment on the drivers side with the rest of the wires. I felt so lucky that I pulled an extra wire because I knew it would never happen again. LOL

Mark

[jetskier]

Originally Posted by Chaseurs

I'm gearing up to put disc brakes on my 2011 3000RK. I've watched every video I can find, and read a bunch of these posts. I've discovered a significant hurdle, though. In all the videos I've seen, the installer fishes the wires from the back of the pin box directly back to the battery compartment. My pinbox is solid on the back and has a hole on the drivers side that the wires currently go through. Anyone faced this situation or have any ideas how to get my plumbers tape from this hole back to the battery compartment so I can fish the wires from one place to the other??
Got a photo to share, but unable to get it to attach.

I almost ran in to the same fishing issue, but lucked out when I did some investigating and found an extra wire. When I wired up the actuator in my 2019, it had a separate blue wire that feed 12v to one side of the breakaway switch. I don't know why they didn't use the charge line that went to the same place from the battery compartment to the junction box for the breakaway power. Maybe redundancy? The heavy 10ga brake wire pair (brake hot/ground from TV) at the junction box ran to the battery compartment area before heading down the frame to the axles. I cut that pair at the battery compartment and wired it in the the actuator brake and ground terminals and tied the blue wire to the actuator break-away line terminal and the other end remained on one side of the breakaway switch. I then used the charge line (+12V) at the pinbox junction box to feed the other side of the break-away switch. I ran power from the batteries directly to the actuator.

[beeje]

Even though I did not install them on my unit (installed by previous owner). I am a little confused as to why you would need to run any additional wires from the pin box area. I would think that all you have to do is intercept the existing brake wire and run it to the disc brake actuator.? Those wires should run through the front compartment right ?

[jetskier]

Originally Posted by beeje

Even though I did not install them on my unit (installed by previous owner). I am a little confused as to why you would need to run any additional wires from the pin box area. I would think that all you have to do is intercept the existing brake wire and run it to the disc brake actuator.? Those wires should run through the front compartment right ?

I thought that too until I got to wiring the actuator. There's only one that would need to be added. The actuator has and uses a separate wire for the break-away circuit rather than energizing the brake wire circuit from the controller. I'm not sure the reason, but there must be one. It may be something to do with the pulse used in the EoH signal from the controller verses full voltage in a break away scenario.

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by beeje

Even though I did not install them on my unit (installed by previous owner). I am a little confused as to why you would need to run any additional wires from the pin box area. I would think that all you have to do is intercept the existing brake wire and run it to the disc brake actuator.? Those wires should run through the front compartment right ?

The wires in your existing loom are for lights, except for the main charge wire they are several sizes too small. The breakaway system needs a trailer source 12V also, but you can use that one in your pin box.

Mark

[prndl]

Originally Posted by MARK A

The wires in your existing loom are for lights, except for the main charge wire they are several sizes too small. The breakaway system needs a trailer source 12V also, but you can use that one in your pin box.

Mark

Actually the correct answer is already posted. The brake pump needs a separate wire from the breakaway switch rather than using the blue brake wire from the TV. Wire size is not the issue. Also if you use the TV 12V as a power source from the pinbox you would not have 12V to power the pump in case of a breakaway.