Rear Stabilizer jacks

[Bud and Monti]

We just purchased a new Montana , and the rear jacks are the stabilizers. Im wanting to have these removed and have the scissor jacks put on instead the ones that have a lifing capacity of 5000 to 6000 lbs. I feel these are a better set up, then just the stabilizers, as they can lift the 5er to level as well. Has anyone had this done? Can you tell me are the stabilizers welded on so that they will have to cut them off before installlin the others. And will the whole underbody have to be removed as well? Wife is not too happy about them cutting into the brand new 5er. Would appreciate in input y'all might have on this. I had them on our old Aljo, and just loved them. never had to do any pullin up on blocks. Would love to have them on the Montana , but wondering what they are going to have to do to get it done.

[Glenn and Lorraine]

Before I would doing anything concerning the rear stabilizers I would check with Montana to see how such a change could effect any warranties, especially any warranty concerning the frame.

[ken]

WE left the stabalizer jacks on our Montana, but added two sizzor jacks behind the wheels. They were installed with self tapping bolts onto the frame. We use them to stabalize the Rv if were setting for long periods of time. They raise the RV just enough up off the ground to stop the movement feeling inside the unit. I also continue to use the rear jacks too. I felt that the rear jacks did very little to take the sway out of the RV when some walks around in it. These two sizzor jacks from camping world did the trick.
Ken and Velda
Dahlgren VA
2003 3655FL Montana/Ford F350 Diesel

[Sue]

quote:Originally posted by ken

WE left the stabalizer jacks on our Montana, but added two sizzor jacks behind the wheels.

Do you make house calls?? I mean RV calls?

That sounds like such a needed add on!

[DHenry]

My rear stablizers are attached with self tapping screws. They would be easy to remove. I do not think that you have to take down the under belly liner to remove the stablizer, but you may have to take down a panel to install the new scissor jacks. I would be careful jacking up the rear as I would be afraid of twisting the frame. Leveling with the blocks seems to be a better idea than twisting the frame by jacking up a corner.

[sreigle]

We did exactly the same as Ken. It was not difficult to do. I removed a screw from the bellypan so I could make sure there were no pipes or wires I'd drill into, then drilled through the bellypan and through the frame. The self-tapping screws have held without fail for several thousand miles. I did have to cut 3/4 inch off the large screw that goes through the scissor on one side to clear the dump pipe from the galley tank on our 3295RK. Don't cut off more than 3/4 inch though. You may not have to do that. If I'd been a bit smarter before mounting ours I probably wouldn't have had to do that either. These jacks made the single biggest difference in reducing movement in ours. We still have a little side to side movement but these totally eliminated the up and down bounce.

[Northstar]

Some great ideas. Thanks guys. Happyrving.....

[Flastro]

Ken and Steve, great idea, I had been looking at doing just that, better than toting around free standing jacks, thanks

[sreigle]

One thing I was worried about was whether they'd stick out beyond the tires and get hit by curbs, etc. But they don't stick out that far. Nice thing, too, is the socket/handle that comes with these jacks also fits the standard rear stabilizers. I use the new handle since it's socket swivels, making it easier to work with.