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06-27-2005, 01:49 PM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: El Cajon
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #3550
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Loose fresh water tank
Recently, I noticed the fresh water tank drain was leaking on my 2002 2955Rl. Closer inspection showed the nipple coming out of the tank was cracked half way through. When I went to unscrew the fitting from the tank, the tank moved around like it isn't attached anywhere.
I was just moving it through the 2" hole in the bottom cover. I haven't dropped the bottom panel yet. A quick trip to the local RV repair shop elicited an estimate of $800+ to build brackets. This was without them pulling the bottom cover. I told them "No thank you".
Anyone know how these tanks are supposed to be secured?? Maybe it will be obvious when I drop the bottom cover this weekend??
Maluka_T
2002 Montana 2955Rl
1995 Ford F250 with Power Stroke & Gear Vendors
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06-27-2005, 03:16 PM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Moultonborough
Posts: 449
M.O.C. #3268
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Found the same thing with our 2005 3400RL.
If your tank is in the rear like mine, what they use is a welded cross memeber to put one side of the tank against, then they screw the other support into place.
Our had a 1 1/2" movement in it from front to back.
I put 3/4" plywood into the space on both the front and back.
Also the small angle iron "L"s that they place on the ends of the tank to keep it from moving side to side, there was only one that was attached and the other was just sitting there.
You should be able to take care if the problem yourself.
Look up were one of the members used a plastic welder to repair a tank I believe he got it from Harbor Frieght.
Good Luck!!
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06-28-2005, 01:22 AM
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#3
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Carpentersville
Posts: 468
M.O.C. #2785
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by carlson
[...]
Look up were one of the members used a plastic welder to repair a tank I believe he got it from Harbor Frieght.
Good Luck!!
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That was me. Be aware that an air compressor is required for use with that plastic welder...
eric
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06-28-2005, 04:51 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New Market
Posts: 831
M.O.C. #375
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Guys I just had the same problem with a leak. I was headed to Texas and cars would point and honk. Pulled over and found a ton of water running from under the belly pans. When I returned I took it to the dealer. The tank sits between the I-beam frame and was not really secure. He secured and replaced the broken drain line. He said this was a problem for some units. Mine had slipped and I do remember an incident where a car pulled in my path. Hard breaking prevented an accident on my part. We decided this hard breaking pushed the tank forward breaking the valve off. It will not happen again.
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06-28-2005, 06:30 AM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Carpentersville
Posts: 468
M.O.C. #2785
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Native Tex
[...] He said this was a problem for some units. Mine had slipped and I do remember an incident where a car pulled in my path. Hard breaking prevented an accident on my part. We decided this hard breaking pushed the tank forward breaking the valve off. It will not happen again.
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Yet another thing to inspect.... At this rate I will inspect, repair or replace almost every major item on this rig. And mine isn't showing any signs of falling apart (yet!)
Eric
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06-28-2005, 03:37 PM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Santa Paula
Posts: 353
M.O.C. #3727
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I think I am starting to realize how the manufactures are able to make money. They decide what type of unit to build, what its market price is to be competitive, what it would cost to build it and then bring all the parts together and then only assemble 1/2 of it. This cuts thier labor costs in half and makes them a handsome profit. The above story makes me wonder if they just figure that only a few customers from all that they sell to, will discover most of these issues untilatleast the warranty has expired and therefore thier liability with it. I find it disgraceful that they would let things like this go. They probably throw a massive fit when they buy something personally and it is even slightly defective. In my experience I have noticed the ones that shout the loudest are generally the poorer producers overall. They don't see fault in their production or product but would never live with something they purchased displaying the same production standards they include in their products.
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06-28-2005, 03:40 PM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Santa Paula
Posts: 353
M.O.C. #3727
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Also I think it is sad that we are so excited about our RV's but have to be the QC department for the company that produced it. It is like we are full price beta testers or something.
Maybe when people have to replace all the poorly made or constructed items that the makers sidestep responsibility for we should start dropping all that crap off on thier door steps and let them start paying to get rid of it.
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06-29-2005, 08:17 AM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: CHEWELAH
Posts: 318
M.O.C. #1654
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Hi All; Because I could only get 12 gal. of water into or out of my water tank,this week, I pulled the bottom sheeting. surprise,surprise!!! To begin with ,you'r right the tank is semi- free floating, (not strapped)or closly blocked. then the big reason for my problem was the angle iron-TIN! was soooo thin it had buckled in three places(sagging) and allowing the three cross-members also to sag createing one HUGH bulge IN THE BOTTOMOF THE TANK!!!
First, I replaced the angle iron with somegood heavy stock, then added an extra cross-strap,thenput a peace of 1/2" plywood under the tank to make the bottom flat.(I even elevated the far end to allow good drainage). I was really dissapointed in the quality of workmanship and materials,I know this little exercise would have cost me 1500 to 2000 at some dealers,but VERY interesting to see whats under that shiney black belly! Regards, DAVE
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06-29-2005, 08:27 AM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Carpentersville
Posts: 468
M.O.C. #2785
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Dave Anderson
Hi All; Because I could only get 12 gal. of water into or out of my water tank,this week, I pulled the bottom sheeting. surprise,surprise!!! To begin with ,you'r right the tank is semi- free floating, (not strapped)or closly blocked. then the big reason for my problem was the angle iron-TIN! was soooo thin it had buckled in three places(sagging) and allowing the three cross-members also to sag createing one HUGH bulge IN THE BOTTOMOF THE TANK!!!
First, I replaced the angle iron with somegood heavy stock, then added an extra cross-strap,thenput a peace of 1/2" plywood under the tank to make the bottom flat.(I even elevated the far end to allow good drainage). I was really dissapointed in the quality of workmanship and materials,I know this little exercise would have cost me 1500 to 2000 at some dealers,but VERY interesting to see whats under that shiney black belly! Regards, DAVE
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Wow!
I know that I had seen where other people on this forum had enhanced the brackets holding the fresh tank in place but I had no idea it could be this bad.... Your description is quite interesting to me because I feel that I'm not getting 60gal out of ours. It acts like (judging by filling the grey tank) that I get only a little over 40gal out of it.
I'll have to accelerate my plans to drop the belly pan.
Eric
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06-29-2005, 09:22 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 1,834
M.O.C. #185
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This is on my to do list next week! I'll let you all know what I see/find!
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06-29-2005, 01:24 PM
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#11
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: El Cajon
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #3550
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Well I just finished repairing my loose water tank. After pulling down the cover, I found the edges (side to side) held in with angle iron and 3 3/16" X 1 1/2" flat stock running fore and aft under the bottom of the tank. There was 1 5/8" of play on the front and rear of the tank and 12" side to side??? No evidence that there had every been any holding brackets.
The vent fitting in the tank was turned straight up resulting in a kinked vent hose. No wonder it was taking me forever to fill the tank because of ilt continuously burping back. A simple 90 degree rotation fixed that.
The next thing I cured was the two hose coming from the tank were laying on top of and chafing on a raw piece of metal. It probably wouldn't have been too long before a leak developed there!
I decided I would use of ultra high density plastic against the tank to try to reduce and chafing. I placed 3/4" pieces of plastic on each side, stopping the side to side motion. A piece of 1 1/2" plastic above the tank on each end held it down.
I had to build a 4 1/2" spacer of wood and plastic to place between the end of the tank and the curb side of the frame. Lastly, I screwed a 2" piece of plastic to the angle iron on the roadside to complete the job. I probably over built it like I usually do, but I rally don't want to ever do this project again.
Thanks to all on the forum for your advice.
Maluka T
Then zip tied up a bunch of wires that were dangling.
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06-29-2005, 03:42 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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Maluka, what year and model do you have? It would be interesting to see if this is a multi-year situation or if it was improved in later years.
Thanks. And welcome aboard!
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07-02-2005, 07:46 AM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 1,834
M.O.C. #185
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I just finished securing my fresh water holding tank. Found the frame the tank sat in was good and secure for front to back movement. But side to side only had 1 L shape tab - thus it moved from side to side considerably. I shimmed it with 1 3/4 board on one side and a 2 1/4 piece of wood on the other side which I screwed to the frame and against the L bracket.
Now why the belly is down I am staring to better insulate it. I placed pipe insulation for about 12 feet going forward on both the city and holding tank water lines. ( I'll add more as I take other parts of the belly down). And I'm off to HD to get 3 1/2 R13 insulation and lay in the underbelly as far forward as I can get it push in and up under the back cap. I'll continue to add insulation under the belly as I take other parts off.
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10-09-2018, 07:31 PM
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#14
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Established Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Deer Park
Posts: 10
M.O.C. #20461
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I have a 2016 Montana High Country. We have been on a three week trip to Utah and was heading back to Texas when we noticed water coming from the bottom left side, in the back, by the fresh water drain valve. My wife had seen on a post where someones fresh water tank came completely out while they was driving down the road. It took out the brakes and all the lights in the back of the trailer. We made it home ok and when I looked under the trailer I noticed that the coroplast had a bulge in it. I tried lifting and could not move it until I drained the fresh water tank. Tomorrow I am going to drop the coroplast and see about the tank. I will keep y'all updated. I'm thinking about making a show to share on the forum.
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10-10-2018, 05:49 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Grand Rapids
Posts: 1,896
M.O.C. #9561
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richance, you are responding to a 2005 thread....I would hope that they corrected their problem by now.
you might want to start another thread about your journey:-)
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10-10-2018, 07:23 PM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: westminster md
Posts: 2,318
M.O.C. #17894
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Yes a very old tread, But my 2011 unit had the same issue. Front to back was ok but it could be moved from side to side several inches. If fact it was so far shifted towards the drivers side that the lowest point of the tank was riding up onto one of the front to back straps which would trap a lot of water in the tank when you thought it was empty.
__________________
2018 Chevy 3500 LTZ Dually Diesel 4x4 CCLB
2011 Montana 3455 SA. 6 point level up. Disc brakes. Curt Q24 Hitch. 5 step glow steps
Progressive EMS. Valterra tank valves. Sailun G637 tires. ARP fridge control. All led lighting. Mor Ryde IS
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10-10-2018, 07:33 PM
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#17
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Established Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Deer Park
Posts: 10
M.O.C. #20461
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Thanks, I guess I need to start looking at the post dates.
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