Converter Issue

[MIMF]

Well gang, now it is my turn for a little knowledge from you folks.

Recently discovered that the 12 volt ceiling lights would slowly dim when turned on. So, one evening when they were on, I went to the battery and disconnected the positive cable and the lights went out completely. That was telling me that the lower section,or the section that takes DC current and converts to AC current, is failing.

Now, my knowledge of converters is nill-to-none. Am I on the right track here?

Also, I have purchased a new converter. I don't want to install it just yet if I don't have to. But, our unit is like a 3400RL. The converter is under the cabinet at the floor next to the entry door. If anyone has done this by themselves on their unit, I would be delighted to here any ideas as to what needs to be done to get at it.

At this point, I'm thinking I have to empty part of the basement on the door side and partially take out a wall to get at it. Or, will it come out with the buss box from the front?

Thanks, for any input.

[NCFischers]

No, you aren't on the right track. You could very well have a bad ground. When you disconnected the positive lead, your 12 volt lights should have gone out since you opened the 12 volt circuit. Converters don't convert DC current to AC current, inverters do that. I don't have a 3400 so someone else needs to address the location and accessability of your converter.

[HamRad]

Jim,

The 12 volt lights DID go out completely when he disconnected the positive cable.

Dale it sounds to me like you are on the right track. The fact that the lights slowly dimmed is the main indicator. Were you hooked up to shore power when you did the disconnect?

Sorry but I do not have the 3400 so cannot help you with location and or removal procedure.

And a true electrician should be along shortly. I'm not referring to NCFischers (Jim). I think he may have been or is an electrician. I am referring to myself since I just dabble with the stuff.

Good luck Dale and let us know what you discover.

Dennis

[MIMF]

Dennis, the unit was plugged into shore power when I did that. Then it struck me, when new units are going down the assembly lines, there is no battery in them. They do have the 110 volt shore cord plugged in and as they go down the assembly line, all of the electrical appliances, whether 110v or 12v are turned on.

So, the converter at that point is taking 110v and converting it into 12v without a battery. That means, mine has gone into the tank. All of our 110v stuff is still working.

I was just looking at the new converter. It doesn't look hard to install it once I find it. All I have to do is hard wire the chassis ground, battery positive and negative then, plug it into a 110v outlet that I'm assuming is close by.

But Jim, you could be onto something, too. The chassis ground might just be "dirty" which could be the only thing wrong. I think I'll double check those before I go too far.

[MIMF]

Holy Crap guys! I just realized I had my terminology back-a--wards. I'm sorry about that.

Jim, you are absolutely correct about the difference between converters and inverters! The sad thing is, that much I do know. So, I'm sorry about any confussion.

[Exnavydiver]

Our 12 volt lights have dimmed several times, usually when we move and hook to a new power source. The breaker for the converter did and still does kick off on shore power hookup. Not always but sometimes. So I always check the obvious first... Dave

[SlickWillie]

Depending on the make of the present converter, you probably have a couple fuses on the output of the converter. I believe the Iota converters have them in the distribution panel, but the GFCO we have has two 30 amp fuses mounted on the front of the converter itself. Seems my neighbor's new Parallex has them on the converter too. You might want to check those fuses for an open circuit. Output on the converter should be around 13.5 volts DC.

Not all converters are created equal. Some will operate the DC side of the RV without the battery connected.

[OntMont]

Dale,

For trouble shooting purposes, (and a temporary work around) you could try attaching an ordinary 12 volt battery charger to the battery, and pulling the fuse on the converter (check that fuse first by the way). The battery charger will serve the same function as the converter, and your battery should recover, allowing your 12v lights to work normally. If this is what happens, then your converter is either defective, or possibly has come disconnected.

We have a 3670, but I think it has the converter in the same location as yours, in which case you can fairly easily pull it out from the front.

Good luck, I'm sure everyone here on the forum is more than happy to help someone who has helped so many of us in the past.

[bw2]

If you have the Iota, check the 12v fuse panel. On the left hand side are two 30 amp fuses. Check both of them, one of them may be blown. My 12v lights were dim and when I ran the slides in or out the lights would dim further.

bw2

[wild willy]

We had the same problem and upon ivestigation found that the converter had come unplugged during transit. Might check that first?

[MIMF]

OntMont,

Are you saying if I take the distribution panel out from the front, I would find the converter setting on the floor behind it?

If that is the case, this is going to be easy!

As for the suggestions from the rest of you, I will indeed check those 2 fuses. I know exactly which ones you are talking about.

[2 Sinks]

Hello MIMF...As Ont Mont said it is behind the main breaker panel if your unit is set up like ours.To the immediate right as you walk in under the double door cabinet just about floor level.

I've had my main breaker panel out several times,you will see 4 screws holding it in after you pull the plastic flip down access panel off.I turned the main off and unplugged the trailer.I used a seperate power source from the garage for lights and a soldering gun.The wiring in our trailer was a total disaster...I won't even go there.

The panel has to be lightly pulled out to straighten the bent solid copper wiring and allow access,after that you should see the converter laying loose on the floor.Ours had loose anchor screws holding the power cables in,you'll also see 2 fuses in the end of the unit.All the 12v stranded white wiring in our floating terminal strip behind the panel was poorly stripped and all 10+ wires jammed into 2 holes in the terminal strip.The wires that wouldn't fit were over stripped and taped around the jammed wires. Our strip will accomodate 10 seperate wires easily.I re-cut and stripped/twisted and tinned all wire with solder and re-assembled.

I also added an in line 12v master cut off switch to the positive battery cable in the front storage area and mounted it in a metal box on the hyd motor shelf.My 12v power problems were solved after the repairs.I load tested my original battery and it appeared to be dropping a cell (2.2V when load was applied)Interstate re-load tested & warranted my battery 100%.

Hope your repair solves the problem and your wiring is not in the condition ours was.

Is your battery fully charged / specific gravity test

[OntMont]

Yes, if it is like ours, the Iota converter is right behind the distribution panel, hopefully fastened to the floor.

[KathyandDave]

We have a 3400RL, 2009 version, which may differ from the one you refer to. We had lost 12V power on our maiden voyage during the short ride to our first stop. Our converter is located under the stairs, accessed by removing the stair riser grilles (you can see it at that point), then removing the stairs. The wiring and installation of the converter and its 120V receptacle were a mess. It turned out that the DC wires were improperly inserted into the terminal lugs of the converter and had shorted out against the converter chassis. The dealer gave us a new converter which I installed myself because of the short time window available at that time. I used stiff plastic (would have preferred "fish paper", if I had it) to create a barrier between the lugs and the chassis in the converter's terminal "cabinet", terminated the wire to the lugs properly, then re-dressed and secured the wiring, moved and secured the receptacle, secured the converter and braced the stair construction.

[MIMF]

Alrighty then.

I think, for the grins-n-giggles, I will start at the distribution panel.

Philip, I know exactly what you are saying about the cover and the 4 screws that hold it in place and then the 4 screws that hold the distribution panel in place.

Thanks to all of you! I feel pretty confident about tackling this project this week. I'll definitely post back and let everybody know how it turns out.

Shoot! Looks like all I need to do this is, a couple of screw drivers.

[Al B]

Hi Dale,
Try calling IOTA Electronics and see what they think. It's possible they could replace the converter if that is the problem. It worked for me. They were very good to deal with and paid shipping both ways. The 800 number should be on top of the converter.
Al

[MIMF]

Hello Gang!

Went over to Twin Mills tonight after work and got the converter changed. It was really a piece of cake.

The first thing I did when I got there was tested the battery. It was showing only 8.2 volts.
Then I took the cover off the distribution panel, went back out to the battery and disconnected the positive lead and taped it up to keep it from touching any metal. Went back to the distribution panel shut off the 2 main breakers. After that, went out back to the park post a pulled the plug.

Went back and took the distribution panel loose and lifted it and the 50 lbs of wiring hooked up to it and set it on the floor. Sure enough, there she sat. Screwed right to the floor. Took the screws out and lifted it thru the opening and tagged each wire as I disconnected 'em and unplugged the 110 volt plug from the back of the distribution panel.

Found a dump truck load of saw dust and 2 pieces of wall paneling laying on the floor and cleaned up the mess. Once that was done, hooked the wires back up to the new converter and plugged it back into the distribution panel and screwed it back to the floor. Next, I put the distribution panel back in place but left the cover off at this point. Went back out and hooked the positive lead back up to the battery and went out back and plugged the shore cord into the park post. Went back to the entry door and watched for a few seconds to make absolutely sure I wasn't seeing any smoke. I didn't see or smell anything so, I turned the main breakers back on.

So far, so good! Went to the stereo and microwave and reset the clocks. Then, went back out to the battery and tested the voltage and it was right at 13.6 volts.

I turned on a bunch of the ceiling lights and boy, have we got lights!! The more load I put on it, I could faintly hear the fan speed up as I turned on each bank. Left the load on for a couple minutes and as I started turning off banks, I could barely hear the fan slowing down. The fan is no where near as noisy as the old one!

Put the cover back on the distribution panel, pack up my tools and came home.

If we go back over to the campground Friday evening as we are planning and the 5er hasn't burn't to the ground, I will have considered this project a complete success!

I want to thank everyone for their input, because, you were all dead right!

BTW, the brand of my converter is a WFCO from Cheng of China. Go figure!

Thanks again, folks. Anybody need their converter changed?

[HamRad]

Dale,

I'm glad it turned out to be a straight forward job. Sounds as if things went really well. Now just hookup and head that rig out west!

Dennis

[MIMF]

Dennis, you can bet that someday that will happen. Especially in a couple years when DW and I have retired.