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Old 02-28-2009, 10:00 AM   #21
WorkerB
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Well, the job is done. I am not sure it’s going to work. When I cleaned up the tank with the MEK the crack seemed worse. What the heck I have already gone this far I might as well complete the task. I mixed a can of ABS cement into a can of water. Some cement sank to the bottom of the can the rest floated on top of the water. I rolled a piece of a magazine and stirred the mixture. It changed to a large ball. I put my hand in the can and picked up the ball. Started to squeeze the water out of the ball. It acted like a really angry sea cucumber squirting water in all directions. After about 4 or 5 minutes I had most of the water out of the ball and its size was reduced by at least half. For the most part the ball was not sticking to my hands. Closer inspection revealed that a skin had formed on the outside of the ball. Breaking the skin exposed fresh sticky ABS cement. I prepared the area as instructed by Ann. I put the ball against the pipe and nothing. Hmmm Next I smeared the putty around and when the outer skin broke the inside started sticking in place. I eventually got the hang of how it was going to work but it was not going to be pretty. Once I saw where the crack was it became apparent that if the tank flexed because of being full or whatever the patch would crack unless it was thick enough. It was not like I could put what was left over in my pocket and use it another day so I put on plenty. If the patch fails its new tank time. Three days and I will fill the tank and see. If I can figure out how to show a link that goes to photobucket and show a slideshow I'll provide more step by step pictures.
John


 
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:22 AM   #22
Trailer Trash 2
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After reading this I often wonder if the honey dipper, when they pump the tanks out, they put to much pressure on the tank and cause a rupture. I watched one at Q-site and the hose was making a lot of movement and that is pressure in my book.
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:48 AM   #23
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Don,
I know what you mean. Once I had everything spiffy clean I discovered that if you push UP on the sewer pipe the crack opened up. There was no abrasion or mark showing impact on the bottom of the pipe. I'm not sure I am being clear. Climb under the trailer under the sewer pipe close to the outlet. Now raise up so your back hits the pipe. Now raise up real hard. That is the exact type of pressure that opens up the crack at the tank. Unless I'm pretty darn sure the patch will work I'm going to replace the tank.
John
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:10 PM   #24
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Well John after I saw all the JB Weld you applied to that pipe I dont think you will ever have any problem with that tank in that area EVER. I have some stuff that I purchased for boats at a RV store years ago it was a two part mix that was a light tan or cream color after mixed and could be applied to the damaged area if wet, I never used it but the shelf life has probably expired by now so I guess its time that I went back there and got a new supply and keepit on the Monty just in case it ever happens to my tanks.
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:25 AM   #25
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Well, for anyone that is interested this is the final….. I Hope. The weather has been nasty and finally it’s warm enough to get the chunks of ice out of the garden hose. After applying the ABS patch per the factory directions I let it set for over a month. I filled the tank to the brim of the toilet and got some leakage right at the floor. I’ll replace that seal shortly. Lowered the water level just below the floor level and let everything set for 48 hours. Not one drip anywhere! Drained the tank. Next I added carpet straps per the factory’s direction to the Black and Gray water tanks. That should do it. It has been so long since I replied to this topic and couldn’t find it. I just realized I misspelled the topic. I called it Another BLANK tank issue instead of Another BLACK tank issue. Anyone know if I can or should correct that?
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:40 AM   #26
richfaa
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Yes pumping out the tank CAN cause damage. We got that from a honey wagon operator at a rally who will not do that. That seal right at floor level is....cost effective (cheap) we did have a leak at that point and our dealer replaced that seal with a good one and no problems since.
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:47 AM   #27
Mrs. CountryGuy
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John, Nice follow up, photos are good.

Concerning the BLANK, vs BLACK

As the OP, you are allowed to edit the subject line.

Go to your original post, just above the post is a row of buttons, there is one there that should say, edit Topic, click on that, you will see the original post and the subject line as well. you can edit the N for a C

Good luck
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:14 AM   #28
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Carol,
You did GOOD! I changed it from N to C. Thanks for the kind comments and the help.
John
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:31 AM   #29
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Rich,
Do you know what the honey wagon guy did to cause damage? When I was present for a previous drain there was a suction hose with a vent pipe about mid way in the suction hose between the honey wagon and my trailer. When the guy put his hand over the vent pipe the hose jerked and reacted to the suction. I wasn't concerned because I thought the vent from my tank to the roof would not allow the suction to become too great and cause damage. Of course all that would be dependent on the AMOUNT of suction applied. Man! If they have the ability to do that intentionally or not we need to watch them like a hawk. Common sense says my vent + their vent would not create the kind of suction that would cause damage. Reduce that by half when the honey wagon guy blocks his vent MIGHT be an issue. Thanks for the tip.
John
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Old 04-11-2009, 06:30 PM   #30
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John-- How and where did you connect the carpet straps? I can see the pictures but can't make out what you used or where you connected them! You can PM me if you like!
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Old 04-12-2009, 02:51 AM   #31
richfaa
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It was explained to me that there are two ways the honey wagon can cause damage.The hose can be jammed to hard into the camper dump pipe or the suction can be to great. There are to many variations of campers size of tanks and equipment used by the Honey wagon to be completely safe.We actually saw a black tank dump pipe pulled out of a 26 foot TT by the suction of the equipment. I will never let a honey wagon pump out our tanks. Some of these guys at rallies are using commercial equipment used for homes , etc and are far to powerful for camper tanks.
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Old 04-12-2009, 03:31 AM   #32
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Rich,
Thanks for the advice. I was actually surprised at how thin these tanks really are. Someone in a previous post on Black Tanks described them as having the thickness of a Wal-Mart 5 gallon gas can. In our previously owned RV's, we have never worried about traveling with full tanks. Any consideration was about the wisdom of carrying around the extra weight and reducing fuel mileage. After seeing how thin these tanks are and not having ANY strapping support a person would be well advised to travel with little or no contents in the tank. We've all hit that corner too fast or gone over the railroad tracks and wondered if something broke back there. In my opinion even with the added support I will travel with as little in the holding tanks as I can and it won't hurt to share my concerns with the Honey Wagon guy in the future.
John
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:16 AM   #33
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thanks trailer trash2 for asking that question about the suction. that was my concern. what do you all think about adding a incoming water shutoff at the toilet. shut off water supply and then when the suction starts from the HW somebody could hold the foot peddle down and open up the holding tank that way . i do agree i will do almost anything before the HW thing, but with no choice this has to help with the suction.

just a thought
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:28 AM   #34
WorkerB
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Excellent Swanny!
A shut off is definitely needed anyway. I found an access door at the base of the shower pan next to the throne. I opened it once and it had shut off valves for the outside shower. I don't recall if there was a third shut off for the toilet. If not maybe this is the place to insert the valve.
John
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