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05-24-2011, 04:46 PM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Olympia
Posts: 1,058
M.O.C. #9441
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Problems with 2007 Dodge
Well it all started on my way home from a company function 40 miles east of Portland. On the way down I was getting about 21.7 MPG and everything way looking good, then I parked the truck for 2 days while a this retreat. When I got ready to leave on Sunday AM I started the truck and check engine light came on, no surprise there as I get a check engine light at least once between every oil change.
But this time another light came on and it was the "Electronic Throttle Control" so I thought this doesn't sound good. But made it back to Olympia all though the MPG when down to 15.5 as soon as the light came on. Dropped it off at the Dodge dealer to have them put it on the scope and they think my battery's are going bad and the drop in volts is what is causing the lights to come on. They think! I think they need to lean how to read the codes for the $108.00 they charged me!
So I ordered 2 Optima Battery's from Amazon at $165.00 each as the dealer said if I wanted them to purchase them they would be a lot more. I hope this takes care of my problems as I am tired parting with $400-$500 every time I go in to change the oil!!
Also they said I need brakes on the front. (what else can go wrong) I am going to replace them myself.
__________________
2020 Ram 3500, 2022 Luxe 38GFB,2500w Solar with Victron equipment, Gen Y Pinbox
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05-24-2011, 05:01 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Anytown
Posts: 609
M.O.C. #10966
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Are you thinking the supposed low voltage just gave false alarms (indicator lights) or caused a real problem? The bad mileage seems like a clue to the problem...
If you haven't done this yet, you might check in on www.cumminsforum.com
there are some guys there who might be able to help... good luck!
__________________
2011 Montana 3580RL with a Reese 20k GooseBox w/offset B&W ball, Sailuns, RoadMaster shocks, Splendide stacked washer/dryer, some other stuff...
2015 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie Megacab, Aisin w/3.73s, 255/80 17 Toyos A/T III, rear auto level, 40 gal. fuel/tool combo box, some Banks mods...
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05-24-2011, 05:08 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastern
Posts: 1,155
M.O.C. #7270
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Larry don't believe everything the dealer tells you they will try to sell service and parts. ck behind them yourself before you let them work on it. JMHO
Bobby
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05-24-2011, 07:06 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sunshine
Posts: 1,445
M.O.C. #538
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Go to parts house and buy you a CODE READER.
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05-25-2011, 12:11 AM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Clearwater
Posts: 104
M.O.C. #11398
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I've come to the conclusion that dealer service is useless! Find yourself a good diesel mechanic. We've found a great one that specializes in truck fleet and RV service.
When we bought the truck the cruise control wasn't working. It had been unplugged under the hood because of a recall - it could catch fire. So we took it to the Ford dealer for the recall. After they did the work it still didn't work!
I called them up and asked "Did you plug it back in? It had been unplugged. And did you road test it to make sure you didn't have a bad module that you put in?"
They said "No, we don't road test it, we just replace the module. Bring it back and we'll diagnose the problem but it will be a $92 diagnosis charge."
I told them, very politely, what they could do. I looked under the hood and couldn't find anything still unplugged. Then I took it to my diesel mechanic and told him the story. He started cursing a blue streak about how they are giving mechanics a bad name, went out to the truck, opened the hood and found that the dealer had zip tied the still unplugged connector up behind the engine where I couldn't see it!
He cut the zip tie, plugged in the connector and told me to take it for a test drive.
And I had working cruise control! No charge! Definitely no $92 diagnostic fee!
Guess where I'll be getting all my work done, for as long as I own a diesel truck (which looks to be a long, long time)?
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05-25-2011, 03:12 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Olympia
Posts: 1,058
M.O.C. #9441
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Thanks for all the input. My next purchase will be the code reader. I have noticed that the volt reading on the dash wants to bounce around from 14 down to 12 when I first start the truck in the mornings. I don't know if this is caused by a weak battery or the alternator going bad.
__________________
2020 Ram 3500, 2022 Luxe 38GFB,2500w Solar with Victron equipment, Gen Y Pinbox
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05-25-2011, 05:08 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 2,707
M.O.C. #7992
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Larry, When I first bought my Dodge I noticed the same thing. I found out if it is cool outside the volt reading drops as the grid heater kicks in and out. It stops after the engine has reached operating temps. Jim
__________________
2006 3000RK
2009 Ram 2500
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05-25-2011, 05:47 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Anytown
Posts: 609
M.O.C. #10966
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Ya, my truck voltage kind of dances around when I first start it up...don't think that is anything out of ordinary.
Doesn't hurt to have a couple of nice new Optimas, hope that solves the problem.
I agree with others, get a second opinion from someone who knows how to diagnose the codes! I think Autozone or someone like that will read your codes for you too.
__________________
2011 Montana 3580RL with a Reese 20k GooseBox w/offset B&W ball, Sailuns, RoadMaster shocks, Splendide stacked washer/dryer, some other stuff...
2015 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie Megacab, Aisin w/3.73s, 255/80 17 Toyos A/T III, rear auto level, 40 gal. fuel/tool combo box, some Banks mods...
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05-25-2011, 07:10 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lakeside
Posts: 606
M.O.C. #7139
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check with your local Auto Zone. I just went in to ours and they said they no longer read the codes for you. They offered to sell me a code reader. then they would run the code on thier computer and tell you what it says.
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