Black Tank Dump Valve

[Doberman]

Yes, it is always the black tank valve that screws up!!!! Anyway, tank is full, went to drain, pulled handle and nothing comes out. Crawl under RV, cut the black barrier to take a look. The cable is broke. Unfortunately, you can't change JUST the cable since the tank is full. I have to cut part of the valve/cable assembly so I can grab the valve and manual open it, drain, clean the tank and then replace the entire thing. From the looks of it, this is the original valve system under there now: http://www.rvautoparts.com/66N4AB72B...FcGRHwod24UFQQ. Has anyone replaced this valve with a different manufacturer? This particular style/model seems hard to find. I found this one but all other places show they are out of stock.

Any help is appreciated.

[Starmaster]

Call LaSalle Bristol in Elkhart, IN and explain what happened. They will most likely send a replacement valve assembly including the cable. Theyll need to know the length of the original cable and the gate valve diameter (probably 3" for black tank). When I called, I talked to a lady named Teresa Adams, who was very nice.

You will have to replace the entire valve assembly, they are not designed to replace only the cable. Overall not the best design from what I can see.

If they don't send a replacement , I think I would go back with a Valterra, seems like you can find those everyplace.

Dave

[Doberman]

Great information. I will call the company direct.

[hunts800]

Had the same problem while on the road with the grey tank. Mobile tech said these OEM valves are cheap, and suggested replacing with a Valterra valve and cable....available at Camping World. We did not have time to order the Valterra, so he just fixed the factory valve. I plan on replacing both valves with the Valterra myself over the winter. But, so far both valves working OK.

[dieselguy]

Actually you can just replace the cable (you may have to buy the whole valve however). The end housing on the valve where the cable attaches to unsnaps from the main body. Then you can remove a small screw and pull the cable sheath out until you see a set screw. The set screw secures the cable to the pull rod on the valve blade itself.

[Starmaster]

Dieselguy,

Good info on the cable housing. When I was looking at mine, it appeared the housing was captive in the main body of the valve and it might possibly be able to be pried out, but I couldn't tell if it could be snapped back in if it was removed. I got mine fixed without removing the housing.

I was just relaying what LaSalle-Bristol said about servicing the valve.

Thanks
Dave

[1retired06]

As outlined in a previous post, this month I replaced all four of our cable operated flush valves with threaded rod pulls. What a difference.

[Poppa Bear 62]

I[ am somewhat new to the forum as in I don`t post much very often so please be patient. I have a 2008 3605 RL and am having a similar issue. I have a very hard time getting the handle pulled out and pushed back in on my black tank. I took the panels off in the storage to access the situation and couldn't see crap no pun intended. Do you have to take the bottom off to see what I am dealing with?? I am set up permanent so taking it somewhere to repair is not an option. I had also read on one thread that you could take the black sleeve off and lubricate it but I was unable to do that when I took the handle off. Is there any trick to doing that??
QUOTE=Doberman;1010874]Yes, it is always the black tank valve that screws up!!!! Anyway, tank is full, went to drain, pulled handle and nothing comes out. Crawl under RV, cut the black barrier to take a look. The cable is broke. Unfortunately, you can't change JUST the cable since the tank is full. I have to cut part of the valve/cable assembly so I can grab the valve and manual open it, drain, clean the tank and then replace the entire thing. From the looks of it, this is the original valve system under there now: http://www.rvautoparts.com/66N4AB72B...FcGRHwod24UFQQ. Has anyone replaced this valve with a different manufacturer? This particular style/model seems hard to find. I found this one but all other places show they are out of stock.

Any help is appreciated.[/QUOTE]

[twindman]

If there is room to get the old valve out, I highly recommend replacing with the Valterra valve. Mine was getting very hard to pull, so I lubed it in the tank with a bottle of stuff. It helped a little for a few months and then was back to hard to pull again. With the new valve I can literally pull it with 1 finger!!! Hard to imagine how a different valve can make that much difference.

[Poppa Bear 62]

Thank you for the suggestion. I did pickup a Valterra TC372
After reading the instructions I did notice it said the cable needed to be fastened every 24 inches and I can tell the one that is on mine is not fastened at all. So, l am sure that is part of the problem. How do you recommend i go about accessing the tank. Do I take the brackets down that are holding up the underbelly or do I cut it to access the valve???

[jcurtis934]

That is a personal choice. Cutting is fast and cleaning the coraplast with rubbing alcohol then using black gorilla tape to seal the cuts works well. On the other hand, it is very easy to spin out the screws on the plastic and the two metal support bars (if like mine) and drop the whole front bottom or just the back half of that bottom. Replacing the valves or one valve is made much easier if you cut the 4 inch sewer pipe behind the valve or to the rear of the rv and then use a 4 inch rubber no hub coupling to put it back together. If you don't do this, it is a major pain to get the new one in without losing the seals on either side of the new valve. And...make sure you drop the landing gear some so that the remaining nasty smelling crap doesn't drain out on you as you are trying to do the job.

[RKassl]

FYI Our 2015 from day one always gave us problems with the cable system that Keystone used in our 3440RL. Repaired 3 times with no joy. Finally our RV tech removed the cable system on both the black and gray tanks, and used a straight rod to the new valves. No more problems at all!

[Poppa Bear 62]

Drop the landing gear?? I am set up permanently as in I am set up on blocks.
There are so many things I am learning thanks to everyone on the forum.
I should have been flushing the tanks each time I emptied them........I should have been making sure they were full before emptying them. Oh well, it is a learning experience.

Always looking for ways to improve so if anyone has any suggestions for a novice please share!!

[Dave W]

Elderly thead but ...


I have recently been told that yes, you can replace a Bristol with a Valterra waste valve but then was just told that the flanges were different.



Are these valves actually interchangeable, using the correct seals? Or are they not?

[beeje]

Just last summer I got tired of using both hands to open and close the valves so I bought all new valterra valves and cables. The valves fit just fine and was able to cut the cables to a length that was correct without being too long or too short. I made a bracket for the center of the front 2 tanks to hold the cables firmly in place. Also I anchored the cable here and there so they would not just flop around.

I moved the galley pull handle towards the front and mounted it in one of the extra holes in the center level up legs. So much easier to dump without having to find the handle up under the rear slide.

FYI !!!!I ordered the valves and cables separately. I ordered longer that necessary cable so they could be trimmed to fit. What I did not know is when I ordered just the valves that they did come with the valve housing's. Come to find out from calling Valterra that they do not sell the housings separately.

I was like WTF. How am I suppose to make them work?
They ended up selling me the housings for minimal cost.

[Dave W]

OK, did a bit more rooting around:


~ Valterra fits Valterra

~ Valterra Bladex[ fits " Blade*x™, Valterra, Bristol and Anonda valves


...and with that, will plan another under the 5er 'experience' and belly cover removal for late fall/early spring.

[Tomzspot]

Appreciate your post. I have a 2014 3402rl and the black valve needs replaced. The valve that is there is not a valterra. I ordered the TC 372 to replace it but now second thinking because I read other places that you need a Valterra Bladex to replace the OEM valves. There seems to be some confusion in the posts I've read.


So, can you or can't you replace the OEM with the Valterra TC372?
BTW, my belly is dropped and the temp is falling...


Thanks

[beeje]

The Valterra valves should be a direct replacement for the stock Britol valves.