05 Ford Brake controler error messages - Page 2 - Montana Owners Club

Paul Severson · 06-01-2005, 04:07 PM

Finally this is solved. Ford did all they could and finally hooked up my Monty to 3 different trucks and got the same error messages. I had to call Keystone and complain to customer service, but they got me a local repair shop to workon the problem in the trlr.

After a short day it was discovered that two wires had been crossed at the factory and this has been the problem all along. I still do not understand how this would be interrminent even when the brakes were not being applied. The wiring error was outside the rear hub.

While dealing with this issue Dexter asked if I had adjusted the brakes after 200-300 miles. Tey were not going to cover the warranty repair if this had not been done. A word of caution to new Montana owners.

All fixed now even though I had to cancel a trip with the MOC in N. CA.

Searchers · 06-01-2005, 04:59 PM

Glad you got it repaired Paul and surprised at the comment about the warranty. With an attitude like that I expect they might have blamed someone else for the problem if the brakes had been adjusted at 200-300 miles.

sreigle · 06-01-2005, 07:27 PM

I'm glad to hear the problem is solved. I do have to wonder about Dexter's comment. Do you know if they provide this information clearly in a manual for the brakes/axles? Comments like theirs are rather scary.

jpf · 06-11-2005, 05:44 AM

Sorry to post so late, just noticed this thread. I'm also getting the same msg's. Picked up my '05 F350 in Feb., and my '05 3400RL in May. Pulled it from Las Vegas to Sacramento (700 miles) with no problems. Took it out Memorial weekend for a 110 mile trip with no issues enrt but on the return got intermittant Disconnect msg's, Plug was secure although I 80 is a bumpy road. Disconnects were lasting 2-3 seconds and returning to normal, only occurred about 7 times.
Took TV to Ford, they checked and claim no problem found, suggest problems with trailer brakes. Made appt with RV dealer locally, (still waiting).
Decided to see if this was a fluke, cleaned the contacts, and headed out for another 100 mile test run this last week, flat smooth road most of the way. No problems for the first 80 miles or so, then about a dozen disconnect msg's in a row. We were very close to the campground and spent 3 nites at the site on the Sacramento river.
On the return trip, immediatly started getting disconnects, which increased in both frequency and duration, almost like more disconnect than connect.
Passed an RV sales and service about 40 miles from home and stopped to see if they had any suggestions, they were nice enough to check the trailer brakes, plug connection, and crawled under and checked behind the 5er wheels, found nothing out of normal,(all of this without an appointment)
The Tech. hooked an Amp/Volt meter to the Ford factory plug on the truck and pumped the brakes, the readouts were 1 volt and 1 Amp (1st marker line on the guage)output to the trailer. He said they should be more like 5 Volts and 12 Amps.
To show me what it should look like he hooked the device to a dodge truck with a brake controller in it. It did read 5 V & 12 Amp respectively. His diagnosis was the problem is with the Ford controller.
Continued our trip home with numerous disconnects, as test while stopped at a light and idling, I manually squeezed the brake controller slide. the truck and trailer continued to inch forward as if their were no trailer brakes to hold it back.
Heading back to Ford to get their explanation of the Volt and Amp readings. I'm vehicular technology challenged, but it seems as though if the IBC is not sending a sufficient electrical signal to the trailer, then the brakes won't work. What I dont understand is the controller still knows there is a plug in the socket since it's smart enough to flash the disconnect,(and not go dark like when we park and manually disconnect) and, why the msg is intermittant.
I printed the previous posts and will try to understand better what others have found.
jpf

jackw87 · 06-11-2005, 06:09 AM

jpf this is jackw87 I had the same problem took it to the ford dealer and he said noproblem with controler then took the trailer to dealer and they said that there was no problem with the trailer I changed controlers to pa prodgy and went about 200 miles and no problem then it started showing ol which is over load of short and it was interment I pulled the hubs and found that a clip that holds the magnet wire to the control arm was broke and the wire was making contact with the spindle and had a bare spot on it I got a new clip and taped the wire and have had no more problem with the controlere and I went back to the ford controller need to pull them hubs at least 2 of us on this site hav found a problem with the right rear brake clip inside of the hub

jpf · 06-11-2005, 06:29 AM

Thanks Jack, I printed and reread these posts several times, and now understand that the hub wires may indeed be the issue, I'll be specific when my 5er appt. comes around.
Regarding the Volt and Amp readouts, shouldn't the IBC be putting out 5V & 12A respectively as I saw on the Dodge truck ?, or, at least more than 1 V & 1Amp..?
You said you had "pulled the hubs" and found the bad clip. Is that something a novice could check, do you pull the wheels off to check that ?

jackw87 · 06-11-2005, 06:50 AM

On the 05 ford controler the voltage will not be high because the controler is tied into the truck computer and full voltage will not show up till about 20 MPH any one that could do a brake job on vehicles went to 4w disk brakes can pull the and check the wire inside that goes to th magnet my trailer dealer had my trailer for 3 days and said thay had checked the brakes but they lied all they did waw check voltage ;and it will not show upwith the trailer not moving If i did not see the dealer pull the hubs I would still have them checked by some one that I knew a nnd trusted

Charlie · 06-11-2005, 06:58 AM

jpf-
I had the same problem as jackw87. The first trip out on a new 3295RK it started intermittent showing a flashing OL on my Draw-Tite controller and by the time I reached somewhere to get it worked on the OL was more constant than not. I checked the brake wiring and it was showing some resistance. Took it into a dealer and they found the retainer clip on the passenger side rear wheel had come loose and the wire was caught under the actuator and rubbed bare causing the OL.

Native Tex · 06-16-2005, 06:35 AM

All I have an update on my previous post regarding the intermittent brake controller problems. Mine, like most others, seemed to work great for a while, and then get those pesky messages. I had the truck checked and all seemed to be in order. After a trip to Texas a couple of weeks back, I returned our 3400 to our dealer in Birmingham. During the trip I would get no messages on smooth roads, and several on rough roads. It sounded like a connectivity problem to my simple mind; but where? They checked it from stem to stern and found loose connections on the electrical bakes at the hub level. They also replace the 7 pin main power cord just to be sure there was not problem there as well. They called me yesterday and think they have the issue resolved. I am headed that way later in the week to pick it up and return home. I am anxious to see if it is truly fixed. I have been monitoring the Ford web site and the NHTS site for any recall but have not seen any on the controller. Keep you posted.

Native Tex · 06-20-2005, 07:00 AM

Well guys and gals I am still getting brake controller errors. My Montana dealer did find some loose wiring on the ground and hot wires across both axels. They did replace the the 7 pin cord and ran a continuity check. All wheels are functioning properly with 2.5amps on their test truck. However, on my return trip, I did not get more than five miles and I started getting trailer fault and trailer disconnect messages. Very disppointing.....looks like the Ford dealer is next. When it works, it works beautifully. I am no electrician buy any means, but it really seems something that comes and goes as if there is still a loose fitting somewhere Oh well.....there has to be something in life that keeps your blood boiling. Keep you posted.

richfaa · 06-20-2005, 11:30 AM

We just did the first long run with our 05 F 350 SD..The TBC worked perfectly..no problems what-so-ever. After reading this forum on TBC problems I did clean the contacts on the connector and check for proper grounds everywhere. We are pulling a 10 year old Terry TT. I asked my Ford Dealer (he is a good friend of mine) about TBC problems and he said that he has had only 1 case of a actual TBC problem out of scores of TBC complaints.Every other problem was with the RV..loose connections, loose/broken wires, bad grounds.

sreigle · 06-20-2005, 02:06 PM

The connectors Keystone uses on the wire connections back near the wheels is prone to allowing moisture inside and the connections becoming tenuous. You might want to cut out those connectors and use something a bit more positive. The dealer for our first Montana commented on that and replaced all of them when we were in for service even though we were not having a problem with those connections at the time. This is a potential cause of a bad connection that may look and feel ok.

Native Tex · 06-21-2005, 06:06 AM

Steve - that is a good idea. My Montana dealer did an extensive diagnosis and check all the connections. However, nothing was said about potentially bad connectors. I did find some information on the Ford TBCs built prior to Mar 05. There are many reports with Ford, and of course action by Ford to replace the TBCs due to those in question not providing sufficient amps to the rear plug. I am taking mine to the dealer next week and let them check their end at this point. Thanks for the information. I ain't giving up, I do love the truck and the TBC worked great the first two times we used it.

sreigle · 06-21-2005, 09:11 AM

O.V., I also read something about those prior to a certain date provide minimal voltage to the brakes when at idle and those after that date provide more. Mine is one of the earlier ones. Since we have a slider hitch this is of importance to me as I would have to block the trailer wheels to break the slider, the way it is set up now. If you find Ford is replacing those earlier ones with the later ones, please let me know. I may stop at the local dealer later this week and see what he says, too. Thanks.

Native Tex · 06-23-2005, 05:41 AM

Steve - will keep you posted after I return from my Ford dealer next week. I just love the truck and hate that something small is creating a problem. I was told that Prodigy developed this for Ford. But it is linked via the on board computer system which is different than the normal Prodigy operations.

Illini Trekker · 06-27-2005, 09:43 AM

I don’t have a Ford but like three other post on this topic I have had a bad magnet. Like the others it too was the rear axle passenger side wheel!! I’m using the Prodigy in my truck had the OP and SH error (overload short). Dealer did something that you might try, disconnect the front axle looked for the errors, disconnected the back axle look again. If errors go away as the axle is unhooked, it is in that axle or in the wiring before the axles. If the error is in the axle, whichever one it is unhook the right then left sides and look for the errors. I hope you are not too confused with the wording this is how we found that I had a BAD magnet.

jpf · 07-01-2005, 05:59 PM

Update on brake "disconnect"situation:
Picked up the 5er Thursday (30th) after a week in the shop. I had requested they pull the hubs and check the wires and magnets (which was on the work order) based on posts here on the Forum.
Well, the Tech says they checked and could find nothing out of ordinary, "probably is the Ford controller, most times thats what they find with the new Fords". Asked if they pulled the wheels as requested, they did not. I had previously been told over the phone they had replaced some "clips" so I pursued that line of questioning. The manager came by and was very helpful, he said what they had done was check everything short of pulling the wheels, but had replaced the "scotch clips" at strategic locations. After again discussing what all of you posters have found they agreed that if the problem persisted, they would replace the magnets and the entire brake wiring. While discussing possible scenarios and what to do if the "disconnects" continued the manager offered to check the TV in-bed plug. He did find a major kink in the wire ( I observed) where the plug turns south (butted up against the inner tire flare wall) to make the connection with the factory plug. They modified the plug and corrected the kink at no charge, and recommended we test drive it and see what happens.
We drove around the Sacramento freeways for about 55 miles with no "disconnects", still not a difinitive test, but better than before.
We're planning to go out for a 300 mile, up and back, pull to Clearlake after the 4th to see if the clips and kink thing resolved the problems...
will keep you posted.....jerry

Charlie · 07-02-2005, 02:37 AM

Jerry-
I hope that your brake problems are solved otherwise if they act up again you have a good idea exactly where the problem is. There is too much weight behind you not to have good brakes.

Bob Pasternak · 07-03-2005, 06:11 PM

You'll know you have a problem when the message on the Ford controller reads "Get A Dodge!"

Native Tex · 07-07-2005, 06:19 AM

Bob - that would be a problem! I am sure a problem that would cause Henry Ford to roll over in his grave. Appreciate the humor.

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