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Old 10-03-2018, 04:26 PM   #21
jetskier
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Yes, there's a couple, just trace the wire from the pump to the existing circuit breaker
 
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Old 10-03-2018, 05:03 PM   #22
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I could only find 50 amp breakers, two paces told me they no longer make the 80 amps ones??

One of these have caused much trouble, replaced with a 50amp, good so far
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:06 PM   #23
Jerry B
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Breaker?

My breaker is in front compartment just above and behind the batterys. However, mine is a 2009 model so....., drove me nuts on slide till I read these forums!
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:28 PM   #24
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Also Trojan has a battery watering system available, you can fill all 4 batteries with a couple squeezes of a siphon bulb. Good money spent.

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Old 10-03-2018, 10:42 PM   #25
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I could only find 50 amp breakers, two paces told me they no longer make the 80 amps ones??

One of these have caused much trouble, replaced with a 50amp, good so far

These breakers are still available. Sounds like those two places are just too lazy to get them for you. Order them online and save some money too.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-C.../dp/B001PYL1VM
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:44 AM   #26
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Also Trojan has a battery watering system available, you can fill all 4 batteries with a couple squeezes of a siphon bulb. Good money spent.

Mark
This is what I did for watering system ... The two circuit breakers are behind the battery box.
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Old 10-04-2018, 09:24 AM   #27
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Thanks for the information
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Old 10-04-2018, 01:17 PM   #28
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I had a similar setup and it work fine for me. Aa stated the levels are correct. I think the issue may be in the battery cabling is not large enough or you are not drawing from acros the bank. Trailer positive from one pair and trailer neg from the other.
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:19 PM   #29
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Carl, If you can go without any shore power or generator for 4 months you must have one hell of a solar system. There is no disagreement that the 40 amp breaker is the problem and the 80 amp replacement is the fix. I am simply trying to prevent the issue from happening to others by supplying a/c power to the unit while operating the slides.

Having AC power connected does very little to help with operating the slides of leveling system, because there is so much amperage needed from the batteries in a very short period of time, the converter can not supply enough current to make much difference. Good well charged batteries, good wiring connections, and of course a good breaker are all that is needed. When I replaced our breaker with an 80 amp one years ago, I also found slightly loose connections, which I tightened while changing the breaker.
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:24 PM   #30
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My new trailer does the same on battery power. Once the hydraulic pump runs for about half a leveling cycle, the circuit breaker will trip and reset the who 12V system (lights flash inside the trailer). In my case they wired the interior 12V fuse panel to the same CB as the pump. I need to rewire to isolate the pump with its own CB. That's next on my list and easy compared the other mods I've done since delivery a month ago.

Our rig is wired the same way, and when I replaced the breaker, I left it that way. There is very little to no current draw from the inside panel when you are putting jacks down or up and extending slides or retracting them, so it is really is not necessary to have an additional breaker to feed the inside panel through the battery disconnect switch. It won't hurt anything, but not needed.
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Old 10-05-2018, 08:13 AM   #31
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Having AC power connected does very little to help with operating the slides of leveling system, because there is so much amperage needed from the batteries in a very short period of time, the converter can not supply enough current to make much difference. Good well charged batteries, good wiring connections, and of course a good breaker are all that is needed. When I replaced our breaker with an 80 amp one years ago, I also found slightly loose connections, which I tightened while changing the breaker.
While I agree that the replacement of the breaker with an 80 amp unit will more that likely solve the issue, being plugged in to shore power DEFINATLY supplies more power for the slides to operate without stopping. While operating them with shore power, mine have NEVER stopped. I can see the evidence while watching my LCD meter while they operate. While on just battery, the meter dips into the 11 volt range as opposed to the 12.5 volt range while on shore power.

In my case it also makes a difference if I leave the umbilical cord pugged into the running truck while operating them. They never stop while plugged into the truck.

Like I stated before in this tread, most of us camp with access to shore power (me about 1/2 the time). With that being said, simply hook up to it first and disconnect last. You are going to do it anyway so why not do it in an order that prevents the issue from happening in the first place.
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:28 AM   #32
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Having AC power connected does very little to help with operating the slides of leveling system......
Before I changed to an 80a breaker (got mine from NAPA), the original breaker would trip, probably two to one, when only on 12v.
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Old 10-05-2018, 04:42 PM   #33
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My 2018 3811MS has the Buss Hi-Amp 150A, 42v, manual resetting breaker, #184150F.
Guess Keystone and LCI stepped it up.
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Old 10-05-2018, 07:13 PM   #34
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My 2018 3811MS has the Buss Hi-Amp 150A, 42v, manual resetting breaker, #184150F.
Guess Keystone and LCI stepped it up.
That sure sounds like the breaker to the inverter running the refrigerator. Keystone has never put in anything above a 50 amp self-resetting breaker for the main power systems.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:41 PM   #35
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Listen to this Carl as usual got it right again.
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Replace the breaker
I always level and push or pull the slides out umber battery alone... shore power has never been required
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