On our 2012 3402RL I had a crack on the bottom of my grey tank this past year, and was able to repair it without dropping it. I also installed supports under it and the black tank before reinstalling the coroplast. You can see the top of the tank if you remove the plastic cover on the side of the convenience center. I think I remember there only being one connection to the tank on top, with the vent plumbed in above the connection. I had planned, if the leak was not accessible from below, to drop the tank, make repairs, and reinstall it instead of replacing it. I ordered a repair kit from
www.plasti-mend.com
Our rig had two steel cross members, about 2 feet apart below the coroplast, neither one touching the tank. I added two additional braces, 1 1/2" angle iron, and installed foam blocking and one piece of 2X4 wood to the bottom of the tanks so when the braces were installed, would support the tanks every 12". Now, when the tanks are full, they do not sag, so I am confident that the tanks should be good to travel if they have fluid in them. Also, be prepared to have to tie up all the electric, hydraulic, and the tank flush pex when you drop the belly, and I also bought a box of the same TEK screws prior to doing this project and additional fender washers.