Wheel chocks--what and how to setup?? - Montana Owners Club

David and Jo-Anna · 03-26-2007, 07:37 AM

I'm a newbie who has never hitched or unhitched any rig, so I'm a bit nervous about having to handle the Big Sky I'm getting delivered next month. I was just reading thru the literature that came with my Draw-tite hitch, and they repeatedly warn that I need to put a block/chock in against the front and rear of each trailer wheel when hitching and unhitching. I figure that would mean a total of 8 wheel chocks given that the rig has 4 tires. My impression is that many people use fewer than 8 chocks, and I assume this is just CYA by Draw-tite's lawyers. But I'd like to find out more about just how many chocks people use with the larger Montys, where they put them, and what type of chocks they use.

In addition, does the way you chock your wheels change when you have one set of wheels up on leveling blocks? I plan on using 4'-5' pieces of 1"x10" and/or 2"x10" boards under the tires as needed to level the low side of the Monty. When using such boards, where should the wheel chocks go?

As for type of wheel chocks, for those using plastic chocks, which size/brand of chocks do you use. For those who don't use plastic chocks, what do you use?

Appreciate any guidance you can give me. Sooooooooo much to learn.

ols1932 · 03-26-2007, 07:55 AM

I use Roto-Choks between the wheels. They sell for about $55 each. You need one on each side. The reason I use them is that they give me a "positive lock" on the wheels. You can chock behind and in front of the wheels if you desire, however, your rig will rock for and aft because the wheels are not positively locked in place.

*Edit* I install my Roto-Choks before I unhitch. That way I know my rig is not going to move when I loosen the hitch. Similarly, I don't remove the Roto-Choks until I am completely hooked up and ready to leave a CG site. *Edit*

As for leveling side to side, I just use short pieces of 2X6, 2X8 and sometimes some 2X4s. I've never gotten to the point where I purchased anything special for this leveling.

Orv

Emmel · 03-26-2007, 08:19 AM

Dave, if I read you right, Draw-Tite says to chock when hitching or unhitching. I use the plastic chocks for that purpose. I only have two chocks so I only do one tire, fore and aft of a tire, not necessarily the same tire. I'm really hoping someone with experience, real experience will show you the proper way to hitch/unhitch your Big Sky. I do use the Roto-Chocks as Orv says for stability when setup.

bsmeaton · 03-26-2007, 08:52 AM

Dave - good idea to always chock, even if it looks pretty level and it's only for a minute. I've had the Monty roll back dragging the landing gear with it.

I keep 2 of the large plastic wheel chocks handy and use them for general dropping and hooking the unit or maneuviring around. If I'm parking to camp, I use those plus the rotochoks.

For leveling we use the lego block type that stack. I also installed one of those great big bubble levels on the pin box so I can look in the mirror and know how many blocks to use before I get out of the truck. DW usually can set those before I even finish backing up. 1-block each wheel on the low side for each increment on the bubble. 1-block under one wheel for 1/2 increment.

When up on leveling blocks, the wheel chocks don't always fit well. Sometimes I will turn them over or even turn them around. Typically I rely on the rotochoks to do the real holding.

Cat320 · 03-26-2007, 12:48 PM

I use four chocks not eight...placed on the inside of all four tires. On the road I use the big plastic chocks; at home four 4 x 4s...that way when I leave, the travelling chocks are already packed. Don't get the little yellow chocks, get the big ones. Like Brad, the lego stack works well, and, if you extend them a bit, the normal chocks will work with them. They (all chocks and legos) are at WalMart.

One extra piece of advice...the dealers (it seems to me) like to drop the trailers, pick them up, move them around, drop them again...and NEVER use chocks. Maybe they are lucky, but the time will come when one will roll, and they'll have an expensive repair bill. I'm like Orv, if my rig is not hooked to my TV, the wheels are chocked.

H. John Kohl · 03-26-2007, 01:08 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by David and Jo-Anna

I'm a newbie who has never hitched or unhitched any rig, so I'm a bit nervous about having to handle the Big Sky I'm getting delivered next month. I was just reading thru the literature that came with my Draw-tite hitch, and they repeatedly warn that I need to put a block/chock in against the front and rear of each trailer wheel when hitching and unhitching. I figure that would mean a total of 8 wheel chocks given that the rig has 4 tires.
I took a 6x6 about 18" long and cut the center on a 45 degree angle that gave me two chocks. I did it again so I have four chocks. I put them between the two tires on each side so I can not go forward or back. Now I use the scissor clamp similar to roto chocks so I only have two but again locking both tires on each side. As stated you should always chock because when you back into the hitch it does push the trailer a little. Once I back in and the hitch indicates it is latched I put a little forward pressure to ensure the hitch has latched properly. I attempt to pull forward in sixth gear. Just a little pull. I do it a second time once the front landing legs have just cleared the ground.
My impression is that many people use fewer than 8 chocks, and I assume this is just CYA by Draw-tite's lawyers. But I'd like to find out more about just how many chocks people use with the larger Montys, where they put them, and what type of chocks they use.

In addition, does the way you chock your wheels change when you have one set of wheels up on leveling blocks? I plan on using 4'-5' pieces of 1"x10" and/or 2"x10" boards under the tires as needed to level the low side of the Monty. When using such boards, where should the wheel chocks go? make sure you level both wheels on a side. I do not recommend putting all the weight on one wheel. I saw that done on a Cedar Creek and I mentioned my concern of 6000 lbs on one wheel/axle.

As for type of wheel chocks, for those using plastic chocks, which size/brand of chocks do you use. For those who don't use plastic chocks, what do you use?

Appreciate any guidance you can give me. Sooooooooo much to learn.

you will do fine just use common sense and do what you are doing now. Ask questions. Good luck and tow safe

COPINMI · 03-26-2007, 01:21 PM

I've seen too many trailers roll when unhitched and not chocked. Likewise, I've seen the trailers roll to one side when the opposite side is the only one chocked. I use 6 of the plastic (wal mart) chocks for the 4 tires. Depending on the pad, I usually use one in back of each tire and then one in front of the rear tires. Once I'm unhithced, I put the roto chocks on. For the cost of the chocks, better safe than sorry.

ols1932 · 03-26-2007, 01:39 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by COPINMI

I've seen too many trailers roll when unhitched and not chocked. Likewise, I've seen the trailers roll to one side when the opposite side is the only one chocked. I use 6 of the plastic (wal mart) chocks for the 4 tires. Depending on the pad, I usually use one in back of each tire and then one in front of the rear tires. Once I'm unhithced, I put the roto chocks on. For the cost of the chocks, better safe than sorry.

Might I suggest that you just use your Roto-Choks first and not worry about the little plastic chocks. The Roto-Choks will definitely prevent your rig from moving even one iota.

Orv

bsmeaton · 03-26-2007, 04:28 PM

Orv -
Those rotochoks hold great, but I always set regular chocks as well, just in case I get a flat tire. I imagine the rotochok would just fall out. Am I paranoid? probably

. Seems I'm always parked on a river bank.

Bert -
Dealers aren't always so lucky. I had damage done to my tent trailer being serviced at the Dealer from a TT that rolled into it from high winds during the night.

ols1932 · 03-26-2007, 05:17 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by bsmeaton

Orv -
Those rotochoks hold great, but I always set regular chocks as well, just in case I get a flat tire. I imagine the rotochok would just fall out. Am I paranoid? probably

. Seems I'm always parked on a river bank.

Bert -
Dealers aren't always so lucky. I had damage done to my tent trailer being serviced at the Dealer from a TT that rolled into it from high winds during the night.

I assume (not a good idea) that when you park all four tires are inflated. When you put the Roto-Choks in on both sides, what are the odds of a tire on both sides deflating while you're parked? Even if they did (highly unlikely), the gripping feature of the Roto-Chok would still hold against the rubber. They're not going to "drop out."

Orv

bsmeaton · 03-26-2007, 06:03 PM

Orv -
I only say that cause I woke up to a flat tire one morning - something I picked up on the road (our old TT). It put a lot of stress on that rear stabilizer jack when it settled. I didn't have rotochoks then, but I did have the expandable clamp type chocks, and yep, it was laying on the ground.

Brad

patodonn · 03-26-2007, 08:02 PM

Ditto the stacking plastic blocks for side-to-side leveling. Also used to help equalize leveling for the front struts and for the rear stabilizers. I use them as pads for the bi-pod we usually use. I carry two "sets" of 10 each. Used also for any other "leveling" tasks. Take less room, more versatile and lighter than any wood chocks or wooden planks for levelers, IMHO. Maybe not as good on really soft ground as a long planks, but a h--- of a lot easier to work with 99% of the time.

Re chocks, Orv has the best solution, I think. I also carry three large chocks in the TV bed for short term chocking and initial chocking on arrival. It is usually obvious if the rig would roll forward or backward if left by itself...common sense..I place those chocks accordingly.

richfaa · 03-27-2007, 04:07 PM

Dave I am sure you will let the dealer know you are a newbe and you need instructions on all these things as they are very very important.Although we had pulled rv's for many years we had zero experience with a 5th wheel. You must chock, every time, you will roll. We use the roto chocks like Orv but I always overdo it and chock also. (four chocks) 2 on each side. We quit using boards for leveling as they are to big to carry around...the yellow or blue squares will work ok .This is very scarry stuff to a newbe,,been there done that less than 10 months ago.However after a month or so you will feel comfortable.

David and Jo-Anna · 03-28-2007, 01:38 AM

OK I'm sold on the value of getting the Roto Chocks--even if it's still unclear to me how necessary it is to also put chocks behind or in front of the tires when unhitching even if the Roto-chocks are in place. Or maybe we're just talking about whether to go the "belt and suspenders" route.

Understand that it's important to measure the exact distance between the tires to determine just what size Roto chocks to order. Is it safe for me to assume that the Big Sky has the same size gap between the tires as the 3400? And if so, what is that size and which size roto chocks do I need to get for a Big Sky?

If I need to wait to get my Big Sky so that I can measure the exact gap on my tires, I might have to go ahead and get some plastic wheel chocks as well so that I have something to use to chock my tires while waiting for the roto chocks to show up.

Decisions, decisions, decisions!!! LOL!!!

Fordzilla · 03-28-2007, 02:09 AM

While I don't have the rotochocks I use something similar with the same results. I put the scissors type wheel locking device between the tires before hooking and unhooking whenever I am parked. I have left them in before and the TV will struggle to move the trailer. Reminds you they are there and working. If we were parking on a incline or in an area where I thought it might roll I would then use alternate measure to chock the tires on the downhill side of the tire.

bsmeaton · 03-28-2007, 05:26 AM

David -

For the Rotochoks, I learned from the MOC that it's best to wait until you can actually measure your unit. Anything can change - axle size, tire brand, etc. There can also be enough difference between each side that requires different size rotochoks for left and right. We ended up with two larges, but I was surprised at the difference between the left and right sides when I actually measured.

Brad

BirdingRVer · 03-28-2007, 10:19 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by David and Jo-Anna

OK I'm sold on the value of getting the Roto Chocks--even if it's still unclear to me how necessary it is to also put chocks behind or in front of the tires when unhitching even if the Roto-chocks are in place. Or maybe we're just talking about whether to go the "belt and suspenders" route.

Understand that it's important to measure the exact distance between the tires to determine just what size Roto chocks to order. Is it safe for me to assume that the Big Sky has the same size gap between the tires as the 3400? And if so, what is that size and which size roto chocks do I need to get for a Big Sky?

If I need to wait to get my Big Sky so that I can measure the exact gap on my tires, I might have to go ahead and get some plastic wheel chocks as well so that I have something to use to chock my tires while waiting for the roto chocks to show up.

Decisions, decisions, decisions!!! LOL!!!

David,

I agree with Brad, wait until you have your Monty to measure the wheels. Once you order the Roto-choks you should have them within a week.

Buy some of the plastic chocks to use until you get your roto-choks. If you need to drop your Monty off at a dealer for service or repair it is good to have the plastic chocks.

Grant

Searchers · 03-28-2007, 11:22 AM

Brad,

You said "We ended up with two larges, but I was surprised at the difference between the left and right sides when I actually measured."

I would expect the measurement to be equal between both sides otherwise the axles may be out of alignment. JMHO!

ols1932 · 03-28-2007, 11:34 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Searchers

Brad,

You said "We ended up with two larges, but I was surprised at the difference between the left and right sides when I actually measured."

I would expect the measurement to be equal between both sides otherwise the axles may be out of alignment. JMHO!

One would expect the distance between wheels to be the same on both sides. However, if the axles are not aligned properly, the distance between wheels could be different. Do you notice any abnormal wear on the tires? If so, then the axles are out of alignment. Back in 2002, we broke a center bolt on one of the springs on one side. This allowed the rear axle to shift backwards slightly. When I parked for the night, I noticed that there was a difference in the two distances. It was at that time that I made the decision to change to the MOR/ryde axles.

Orv

bsmeaton · 03-28-2007, 11:41 AM

I have a 3/4" difference. Not sure if that is detectable across an 8' axle as far as alignment - but time will tell. We just don't have any miles on it yet to see tire wear.

Ironically when I ordered the rotochoks, she said that difference isn't unusual, and thats why she recommends measuring both sides.

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