Very unhappy with new AC system!

[jeffba]

Originally Posted by DQDick

In a way, we only have ourselves to blame for the Whisper Quiet issues. Years of bitching about the noise of the old AC units that actually worked got Keystone to respond with this solution.

I actually believe if properly engineered, this system can work.

[DQDick]

I agree, but in the world of build it as cheap and fast as possible the end user is who really tests new ideas and it's not new. Over the years there have been many examples of new ideas that turned out to be a bad idea going down the road.

[Mikendebbie]

We are in Arkansas this week and have been surprised by the good performance. A few weeks ago we were in east TX and it was mid to upper 90s and units were struggling to maintain 81*. This week in Hot Springs it has been mid to lower 90s and we have maintained low 70s inside very comfortable.

My unit has a half bath and it has always been a meat locker in that bath so we put a small fan in there with the door cracked blowing cold air into the living room and it seems to make a difference. The first day we were here while AC was trying to cool the unit we had a fan blowing on us while watching TV and I think it only got to 79*. We like to sleep cold and it has been low 60s inside when I get up for coffee and I have been turning it up. So far this week it’s working great.

[jameswbarton]

I thought I had all the AC issues fixed until the Rear Unit shredded the cooling fan and ate the foam cover. Dometic not Keystone covered the Fan blade only. They would not replace the damaged shrouding. When I replaced the fan I saw my rear duct supply and Return were crushed at the unit itself. I could not see ths until I looked down through the unit. Crappy work everywhere by Keystone. Plus it never leaked and now it does. You just gotta learn to love these POS's. I do hold temp good in 96 degrees heat with the Units cycling on less than 25% of the time So all the other repairs plus awnings plus slide toppers plus insulation etc. etc. helped. When I go the unit 2 years ago it could only cool 8 degrees from outside air temp. Now it cools 25+.

[Golfmedik]

I did the PVC mod to ours and it has helped tremendously. When the returns were opened up to the factory specs, the difference was amazing. Looking back over the last two years from a bad control board to the longer vents, this has actually worked. I did a write up on the FB group and many have had success with it.
By the way, the '19s will have HIGH PROFILE AC units on them to improve CFM air flow.

[Razrbk]

I have a 2015 3100rl which cooled poorly, initially. I did the PVC fix to the ductwork which improved it. Following year, I added MCD blinds and a 30 pint dehumidifier which have improved it even more.

[vipermanden]

Interesting? I never thought about a dehumidifier? If the humidity is high like you are in Georgia or similar state, what does it bring the level down to? It doesn't help the temp, just makes you feel cooler with the drier air, right?

[Razrbk]

Exactly. I like the trailer humidity between 35% to 40% and the dehumidifier along with AC easily does that, and it feels cooler. Turn the ceiling fan on and place a small fan in the back doorway and it feels great in here. The lowest that this dehumidifier can be set to is 30%.

[jcboys]

What generator do have?

[jcboys]

Can anyone tell me what size generator/inverter they are using for both ACs to run?

[kench]

Hello We have a 2016 Montana 3790RD Legacy edition. Has the elevated living room and is 41'6" long. The issue we have is the venting/duct. Keystone seem to think that you can push all kinds of air thru a duct that is about 6" wide 1 1/2" high that is probably crushed to some point in the ceiling and rub the duct for about 38-40 feet times two.The ac units themselves seem to deliver lots of cool air. Problem is getting it down to the living area. 2 A/C vents in the living room ( I have added two more), 4 vents in the kitchen area which seems ok and two in the bedroom ( I have added two more to the bedroom ). I tried cutting the strip from the supplied vents which are c____. with very little improvement and they cant be open and closed as required.

I discovered 2 vent outlets that make an amazing difference. One is the Spaceport 8840WH . Available on E bay for about 10 bucks each and an a/c shield part # 10-12403A for under 4 bucks which I got from Ron Hoover RV and Marine in Donna Texas, probably available lots of other places too. which is swivel the same as the c___ that comes with the unit but they have the ability to be opened and closed as required. We have one of the noisy a/c units in the bedroom so I tried using a window type 6000 BTU in the bedroom window. Benefits are the remote control with the units and you can barely hear it when it is on. It works very well. Put a flag over the open bedroom window to disguise it so we don't look like rednecks.... not that there is anything wrong with rednecks. Tried to add a picture to this note but cant figure out how its done

[mtlakejim]

We just got back from a 30 amp campground where we had no shade in the afternoon. I am VERY disappointed in the performance of the AC units!!!


I was wondering. Can you run one of the AC units off of the 20amp 110 breaker using a heavy duty extension cord? As in take the wiring for the second AC unit off of it's circuit breaker and run the Extension cord to that? If that would work I am thinking about adding a selector switch where I can run just that one AC on a separate campground breaker. Sorta similar to the idea of the old Y pigtail adapters they used to use before the Ground fault plugs got in the way.

[mtlakejim]

Originally Posted by DQDick

In a way, we only have ourselves to blame for the Whisper Quiet issues. Years of bitching about the noise of the old AC units that actually worked got Keystone to respond with this solution.

There might be some truth to that but then again the first rule should be at least do no harm!!!! The engineers that thought that this was a good idea should be handed their hats and kicked out the door. Better yet lock them inside one of their units for about 3 days in 100F temps.......

Installing venting that soft between the ceiling and roof was just STUPID on the face of it. What IDIOT ever thought that was going to work out well??

So I guess my take would be terrible design and even worse installation!

[Golfmedik]

Originally Posted by mtlakejim

There might be some truth to that but then again the first rule should be at least do no harm!!!! The engineers that thought that this was a good idea should be handed their hats and kicked out the door. Better yet lock them inside one of their units for about 3 days in 100F temps.......

Installing venting that soft between the ceiling and roof was just STUPID on the face of it. What IDIOT ever thought that was going to work out well??

So I guess my take would be terrible design and even worse installation!

I've had the same thoughts!

[Texan]

Originally Posted by jcboys

Can anyone tell me what size generator/inverter they are using for both ACs to run?

Your camper will run easily on an 5500 watt generator. I've tried both the 5500 watt and 7000 watt generator on my rv with both airs running and had no problem.I also turned on the microwave while both a/c's were running and no problem. If you had a generator factory installed on your unit then it would most likely be an 5500 watt Onan. My 2 generators are The loud Generacs and i installed a 50 amp rv plug on each one with no problem.I only have these set up as a back-up for at home in case i loose electricity then i could stay in the rv.

[DQDick]

I was wondering. Can you run one of the AC units off of the 20amp 110 breaker using a heavy duty extension cord? As in take the wiring for the second AC unit off of it's circuit breaker and run the Extension cord to that? If that would work I am thinking about adding a selector switch where I can run just that one AC on a separate campground breaker. Sorta similar to the idea of the old Y pigtail adapters they used to use before the Ground fault plugs got in the way.[/QUOTE]

Yes you can do that. It's the way we just installed my third one, but I would put a breaker in the line and figure out a way to use a EMS type system so you don't burn up one of your only two.

[mtlakejim]

Originally Posted by DQDick

I was wondering. Can you run one of the AC units off of the 20amp 110 breaker using a heavy duty extension cord? As in take the wiring for the second AC unit off of it's circuit breaker and run the Extension cord to that? If that would work I am thinking about adding a selector switch where I can run just that one AC on a separate campground breaker. Sorta similar to the idea of the old Y pigtail adapters they used to use before the Ground fault plugs got in the way.

Yes you can do that. It's the way we just installed my third one, but I would put a breaker in the line and figure out a way to use a EMS type system so you don't burn up one of your only two.[/QUOTE]

EMS??

[Texan]

I've done the pvc fix to the return air. I used 1 1/4'' by 10'' pieces and seem to work well. My a/c vents seem to have the short necks. I'm thinking of installing the pvc in the ducts.What size diameter and length of pvc do most use. I'm thinking 1 1/4'' should work well. Also planning to changing the registers to a more direct flow downward like the one's from PPL. Don't travel much in warm weather but when i do i want it cool.

[Texan]

Originally Posted by mtlakejim

There might be some truth to that but then again the first rule should be at least do no harm!!!! The engineers that thought that this was a good idea should be handed their hats and kicked out the door. Better yet lock them inside one of their units for about 3 days in 100F temps.......

Installing venting that soft between the ceiling and roof was just STUPID on the face of it. What IDIOT ever thought that was going to work out well??

So I guess my take would be terrible design and even worse installation!

Are you accusing Keystone of having engineers?

[Montana Man]

It almost makes you want to have a third a/c and run it off of the generator from a dedicated switch.