Trouble Braking

[ratfink11]

Found I had to stop quick for a traffic light on 113 in Delaware yesterday and I had the brake to the floor and stopped in the middle of the intersection! I was not going that fast, maybe about 25-35 mph. Besides having a heart attack over not being able to stop, it made me think about what I could have done better. I remember the brakes did not lock up on the TV and 5er. Besides anticipating stops sooner, I will be looking into the Banks Speed Brake before towing again in the spring. I made some adjustments to my brake contoller also. So.....what are your suggestions for quick/panic stops pulling our Montanna`s?

[ols1932]

There's a product called Brake Guard that I had installed on our F-250 that really helps in a panic situation. It's pricey though. If I remember correctly, I paid around $400. But it does the trick. What it does is cause each wheel on the TV to brake at exactly the same time. If you notice, on a stock truck, the front brakes seem to grab first; you can tell because the nose of the truck will tend to go down as soon as the brakes grab. I like the system because I've had to make a couple panic stops without the system and one with the system. No comparison. If you go to Brake Guard and watch the video, you will be able to make a better decision.

Orv

[MikeM]

You may want to check out this link to a legal consent agreement regarding BrakeGuard before going much further:
http://www.ftc.gov/os/2003/07/brakeguardconsent.pdf

[TAKPAK]

Ratfink11, I see you have a 2006 GMC Duramax. I have a 2008 GMC Duramax as well. Love it. Anyway, I notice you are looking into the Banks Speedbrake. I have too, but will NOT put it on....yet. After much discussion with various dealers, they ALL say that if you install an aftermarket device, then the warranty on the engine is void. I believe even the 2006 has a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty. Of course, if you've gone over 100,000.......! I am currently bugging GM about a retrofit, as the new 2011 HAS what is basically a speed brake exhaust brake factory installed. Regarding your braking problem, the 2006 must not have had the factory built in system like my 2008 does. It makes a BIG difference. I hit the brakes hard once, and it darn near put me through the windshield, so to speak. Granted, the trucks brakes should NEVER lock up, due to the anti-lock system built in. I am not sure if that carries through to the trailer brakes or not, a dealer should be able to tell you. I've also done the test of just setting the trailer brakes by hand, with the slide controller on my system........found out what trailer brake lockup sounds and feels like, so I won't do that again. At least I know it works, and works good. Perhaps check the "proportioning" (power to the brakes) setting. It might be too low? I have mine set up pretty high for the 3400. Out of a range of 5 to 10, I have it set at 8.5 This is just what I've done/found out. Don't know if it will work for you or not!

[Trailer Trash 2]

Thanks MikeM for the court information on the BrakeGuard I guess I'll just adjust my controler some more, no telling when that video was made for there advertisement. the case was filed in 2003 that was a few years back.
A lot of the newer TV have disk brakes compared to the early models drum type which also makes a big differance in stopping power.

[ols1932]

I have not experienced any of the problems described by some. I do know that Brake Guard owners were ordered to quit advertising their product as better than ABS systems that are OEM. In addition, as far as I'm concerned, they didn't oversell me when I attended a seminar about Brake Guard. The system has served me well. The only problem I've ever had is at one Ford dealer in Victorville, CA said that the Brake Guard was what was giving me a problem. They removed my Brake Guard system and they still couldn't fix a brake problem I had. I've since had the Brake Guard system reinstalled and it works to help me stop in shorter distances (about 150 - 200 ft shorter. Now I know that this isn't much but if there is a car stopped that far ahead of you and you suddenly spot it, it's nice to be able to stop short of hitting the car or sliding into an intersection on a red light.

None of us should take the word of someone else about any product but weigh the comments each person makes. What works for one does not always work for someone else. I bought the system in February 2002 and it has helped me many times.

Please understand that I, in no way, am connected to any Brake Guard personnel which includes sales and installation people. I merely pass on information in response to a question anyone may ask.

Orv

[thor]

have you ever adjusted the trailer brakes?

[sreigle]

Orv, Rlwhit showed me on his truck what might be the Brake Guard. It mounts on the lines at the master cylinder and he said it equalizes braking between front and back. He swears by it. Does this sound like what you have? From Dick's description it sure sounds worth having.

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Orv, Rlwhit showed me on his truck what might be the Brake Guard. It mounts on the lines at the master cylinder and he said it equalizes braking between front and back. He swears by it. Does this sound like what you have? From Dick's description it sure sounds worth having.

Steve,
That's what I have, exactly.

Orv

[wersqu]

Add-on's are a nice option but have you inspected your brakes since this incident? How is the adjustment? The star wheel should be turned so they grab very slightly. Every year I have needed to add a click or two. The original brakes only lasted 3 years on my "03". I was doing my yearly maintenance and discovered the whole brake spring on one of my wheels was gone. I never noticed it while stopping. The after market brakes are holding up very well. I do believe the brakes on these trailers are barely adequate.

[Tom S.]

These things won't stop like sports cars, but there things you can do to make sure they do the best they can.
1) Inspect your trailer brakes. Make sure they all have the same amount of wear on the shoes, and are properly adjusted. Also check for signs of grease on the shoes (indicates a leaking grease seal). Make sure the magnets are working properly.
2) Do the same inspection on the tow vehicle.
3) Read the instructions on your brake controller to make sure you have it adjusted properly.

I have been kicking around the idea of getting disk brakes for our trailer. I've heard they work much better.

[dieselguy]

On my brand new 3150RL the brakes never were anything to write home about ... long story short on the curb side I jacked the rear wheel up to adjust up the shoes ... never could locate the star wheel ... took the tire and drum off. The star wheel wasn't even forked into the rear brake shoe ... just sticking out toward the drum and the eccentric on the actuator arm was just plain gone. Front brake on curb side never operated from the factory as the wires were severed just at the grommet going into the backing plate ... just a small piece of insulation was holding the wires in the grommet. Needless to say, me and the dealer had a serious sit down session as all this should have been discovered during the dealers PDI. I checked the lug torque and tire pressures when I bought it, but "who da thunk" I'd needed to jack each wheel up too????????????????
Why did I go for the curb side ... my infared heat gun indicated the street side brakes were about 100 degrees hotter after several repeated stops while towing. Never leave home without one ...

[ratfink11]

Had the dealer inspect brakes and install a P3 brake contoller. Brakes were good. P3 contoller works much better than the Reese Brakeman contoller. When I left the dealer with the new controller I noticed I had no signal to the trailer brakes. Dealer checked the wiring again and found a faulty pre wiring harness. I feel better about braking however previous posters are correct, these things do not stop like sports cars. You need to pay attention and anticipate other motorists actions.