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Old 07-17-2019, 06:19 PM   #21
Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 19,595
M.O.C. #2839
One we replaced the cooing units in both our 06 and 13 montana with the Amish cooling units we had no further problems.
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:28 PM   #22
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: owen sound
Posts: 381
M.O.C. #17566
Suspect the door seals are not working properly in the fridge portion.. Likely requires a door adjustment and possible seal repair. Ours was only doing okay... small adjustments and cleaning up seals (both the face where the seal meets the fridge & the seals) now freezes tomatos on the top shelf set at 5
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:52 PM   #23
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Redding
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M.O.C. #23207
Lowes $400.00. Put one in a houseboat!
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:52 PM   #24
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver
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M.O.C. #10843
Originally Posted by knapper42 View Post
where should the thermister be located?
I placed it as far out, and up on a fin as I could get it.
Whether or not that is where it should be IDK.
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Old 07-19-2019, 04:59 AM   #25
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Orillia
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M.O.C. #18135
Originally Posted by hosssmith View Post
The Dometic in our 2015 3825 RL has determined to function quite poorly and will no longer maintain a satisfactory temperature. Our local service man has eyeballed it all over and is stumped and his next idea is to change the thermister (yeah I know that isn't spelt right but it's all I got) which seems like a sound try to me. This is the sensor (it would likely have been called a thermostat a few decades ago) that decides if the box is cool enough or not and commands more or less cooling.

A few weeks ago when we reported for our weekly stay of two nights the plastic burning smell was quite overpowering. We ventilated and looked all over for anything that could have melted and found nothing. Everything continued to function as expected but the fridge began to warm up over the following days while we were away. We returned to find a warmer than comfortable fridge and suspected something in the back had given up. He looked and looked and checked and checked some more and so did we but we located nothing and did not ever smell any ammonia so likely an ammonia leak is not the reason for the gradual failure.

All of which is an awful lot of background for the question. Ought we consider changing over to a residential fridge if this one is found to be not economically repairable? The answer to which could lead to a lot of questions. Will a residential unit fit the fridge space, what will have to be done to maintain the cold on a long day of travel, is a residential really less expensive than an RV style fridge? All y'all are welcome to add some more questions or send some answers as suits your fancy.

He tells me that a new cooling unit will run in the vicinity of $1,600 bucks, a new RV fridge will run around $4,500 bucks and a residential should run around $3 grand. More or less. We do not have a genset so making 'lectricity while traveling is not happening and I am not really in the mood to have one anyway.

I am not yet knowing if we have a serious failure or a failure of one or more of the component parts. If and when we solve that troubling question will it be time to make the big bucks decision.

Thank all y'all in advance account it might be a few days afore I can check back to see what you said or didn't say.
Hi We went thru 3 years of crap with Keystone and our Montana Dealer.
We ended up going with a residential fridge for the following reasons.
1 it works, 2 bought a Hi Sense 17 cu foot for $800 bucks Regular price was $1600. It keeps everything cold even ice cream. Most Rv fridges will not keep ice cream cold because they are an absorption style rather than compressor (whatever that means). I Can buy a 5 year warranty for $150.00. Any Appliance technician can repair them for service cost of $60.00 not $100.00 plus and a guy comes that has no clue. If we are travelling during the day I have turned the fridge off and they are so well insulated , there is almost no rise in temperature when we reach our destination 8 hours later in 85-90 degree heat. You just have to shop around to find a size that fits through your entrance door. Mine was 24" deep so went thru 30" door no problem. Hope this info helps. Just remember these things. Number one These manufacturers build crap cause there is no industry regulation. Number 2 They don't care.
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:42 AM   #26
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Brownwood
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M.O.C. #14197
And number 3; they want your money.

Thanx for the advice. We have yet to make a final decision.
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:01 AM   #27
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Location: Denver
Posts: 39
M.O.C. #10843
FWIW, I unplugged, and re-plugged in all the connections when I was diagnosing the problem. If there was a bad connection that might have caused it to start working again.
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:28 AM   #28
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 2,600
M.O.C. #13740
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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