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Old 02-28-2009, 05:56 AM   #1
WorkerB
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Hard Closing Entry Door

I have been fighting the main entry door for awhile. The only way to get the door to shut is to slam it shut with more than reasonable force. I have taken everything apart and cleaned and lubed the whole mechanism. For awhile everything works as expected and within a weeks time the has to be slammed harder and harder until I spray new slippery stuff in again. Works for awhile and symptoms return. I have tried 3 in 1 oil, white lithium grease dry graphite wet graphite. I have disassembled and cleaned the mechanism many times. The first time it was gritty. Since that first cleaning each time it was free of any grit. I have adjusted the striker plate. Uncle ! Just got a new stained window and DW says if it breaks because of slamming the door Ive had it. I should have bought one at Gamblers when I was in Q. Before I buy a whole new lock any Suggestions?
Thanks,
John
 
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Old 02-28-2009, 06:42 AM   #2
grampachet
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Do you still have the little plastic "shipping shim" on the bottom of the door? IF so, it is supposed to be taken off. It is the little wedge shaped plastic thing under the outside corner of the door
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:45 AM   #3
WorkerB
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Chet,
Answer to your question is YES it was there just hanging by a thread but held from falling off the door by the rubber door gasket. I grabbed it and pulled it free from the gasket. I tried closing the door and it is just as hard to close. It didn't make a difference.

Chet, are you positive that it is supposed to be removed? It looks like it's purpose is to support the door when closed so the door doesn't sag when bumping down the road.
Thanks,
John
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:45 AM   #4
grampachet
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WorkerB,
Yes, the dealer took mine off a couple of months after taking deliver and told me they were supposed to remove it. I questioned him about and he was sure. It was mentioned on this forum and many knew about and some didn't. It was the majority concensus that it was a shipping shim and was supposed to be removed. The door has worked so much easier and no slamming to get it shut since then. Some of the folks even had one of the top of their door. I dunno why.
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:49 AM   #5
jjackflash
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by grampachet

Do you still have the little plastic "shipping shim" on the bottom of the door? IF so, it is supposed to be taken off. It is the little wedge shaped plastic thing under the outside corner of the door
There might also be one on top,there was on mine!
Jack
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:49 AM   #6
grampachet
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do a search for shipping shim and you can see the comments.
Good luck, If I hear a door slamming I will come on over and say hi.
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:55 AM   #7
hookman
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If there isn't one on top move the striker plate out a bit and see if that helps.
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:00 AM   #8
WorkerB
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The shim is removed and there is not one at the top. I will try adjusting the strike plate again. Chet the coffee is on. Come on over. Is this the shim you are talking about?

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Old 02-28-2009, 11:57 AM   #9
WorkerB
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OK,
I verified there are no shipping shims top or bottom. The strike plate was slightly bent so I put it in a vice and everything is straight. Reinstalled and I am where I started. I don't know the proper name for the angled guy on the door. It looks like it has a history of being banged against the strike plate. See the marks?


Moving the strike plate in or out makes zero difference. I'm at a loss. Help?
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:21 PM   #10
ols1932
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Spray a little powdered graphite into the lock mechanism. Also spray it on the surface of the door latch to make it slide past the catch easier. We had to do this a few times until it finally works properly. You can buy the powdered graphite in little tubes at any hardware store. I carry a tube with me all the time.

Orv
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:52 PM   #11
gpats
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I used a dry silicon spray on the latch and the door closes with out the slam--it will need to be lubricated every few weeks to continue working easily--
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Old 02-28-2009, 05:34 PM   #12
CmdrDewey
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Whenever my door has been sticky I have found the rig to be a bit out of level. I would check that carefully. They do shift sometimes.
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:47 AM   #13
WorkerB
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Hi Dave,
I have had that problem with interior doors like the bathroom and closet door but this is NOT the case. The trailer is level and with the striker bolt retracted the door engages the door frame without binding. The trouble occurs when the striker bolt hits the strike plate. There is a whole procedure for measuring the amount of force required to overcome the spring pressure and the door to lock shut. I am just now amassing the information. Our door locks are made by Trimark see trimarkcorp.com. My lock model 060-0250 has been replaced with model 060-0251. Trimark sales and replacement parts number is 800-431-8616. Tomorrow morning I will talk with Trimark and post my findings. We have lock-sets in our homes and the design is such that you don't have to grease up every couple of weeks to get the doors to close. Tomorrow we should have an answer.
Thanks, John
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:40 AM   #14
WorkerB
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Update on the door lock. Trimark had me give the numbers on the lock and said it is a common mistake. This is a Fastec lock assembly. Made in Cheena. She said Trimark looks exactly the same but their door locks are made in USA. Fastec number is 800-837-0205. Flip, the receptionist at Fastec said she fields all calls before referring to someone else. Flip has NEVER had a call describing a hard closing door. Hmmmm Flip said she would have her boss call me. Sounds like I might get the run-a-round. I need the exercise!
John
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:38 AM   #15
royando
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Our 2003 3280RL has high effort closing the door. I took the lock apart to clean and lube it. This helped a little. I believe the high effort is due to the steep angle of the striker and the strong spring behind it. I wanted to soften the spring but the unit is pressed together. I guess they don't want it to open going down the road. You could drill out the revits and put in a softer spring.
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:03 AM   #16
jjfavret
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My door has been like that for 6 years. If I use dry lube it will last about a week or 2. The wife just slams it but I use the latch when closing. When I get tired of hearing it slam I lube it. Sorry I can't give you a fix.
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:59 AM   #17
WorkerB
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I guess a guy could drill a hole in the plate, Tap it, Then install a zerk fitting. That might make it easier. I'm still waiting for Flip's boss to call me. [IMG=right]http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/Workerb/Front%20Door/18fff907.gif[/IMG=right]
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:49 AM   #18
Mrs. CountryGuy
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Slamming can and may lead to the little tabs on the door window breaking causing the window to drop.

Ask us how we know!

We no longer slam. SIGHHHHHHH
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:36 PM   #19
snfexpress
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I was having the same problem with closing the door. My solution was simple and worked for me; your mileage may vary. I adjusted the screen door lever back towards the hinges of the door. With less plastic in the screen door plastic latch on the door frame, the metal door now closes easily.
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:50 PM   #20
WorkerB
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Thanks Mike,
I'll give it a try in the AM.
John
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