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Old 09-08-2008, 03:27 AM   #21
dsprik
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Thanks, Skypilot! Haven't bought the wire yet, but that's an interesting concept. Probably be more expensive under normal circumstances, but I do have a line on some surplus 6-3 at a electrical wholesaler for about ½ of Lowes/Home Dep prices ($253 per 100' vs $446 for 100').

That could be a more economical route - to run a separate 6 wire with that...
 
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Old 09-08-2008, 03:41 AM   #22
SlickWillie
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dsprik

Thanks, Skypilot! Haven't bought the wire yet, but that's an interesting concept. Probably be more expensive under normal circumstances, but I do have a line on some surplus 6-3 at a electrical wholesaler for about ½ of Lowes/Home Dep prices ($253 per 100' vs $446 for 100').

That could be a more economical route - to run a separate 6 wire with that...
If using conduit, I would think just buying enough #6 stranded wire for the 4 runs would be the most economical.
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Old 09-08-2008, 03:55 AM   #23
dsprik
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by SlickWillie

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dsprik

Thanks, Skypilot! Haven't bought the wire yet, but that's an interesting concept. Probably be more expensive under normal circumstances, but I do have a line on some surplus 6-3 at a electrical wholesaler for about ½ of Lowes/Home Dep prices ($253 per 100' vs $446 for 100').

That could be a more economical route - to run a separate 6 wire with that...
If using conduit, I would think just buying enough #6 stranded wire for the 4 runs would be the most economical.
Really? Sure is something to check on. This wire is not cheap. If there is anyway to save money, I'm all for it...

Wonder how much 400' of #6 would cost? Then just have to do your own color code scheme.
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:05 AM   #24
bsmeaton
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Dave,

You can go with aluminum as well Dave, to save costs. I believe you have to up the wire size. Aluminum is pretty common for service runs, but you would have to check with your local codes.
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:12 AM   #25
dsprik
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quote:Originally posted by bsmeaton

Dave,

You can go with aluminum as well Dave, to save costs. I believe you have to up the wire size. Aluminum is pretty common for service runs, but you would have to check with your local codes.
Didn't think of that, Brad. I will check on prices. Can I use the same gauge of aluminum as copper?
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:28 AM   #26
bsmeaton
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I don't have the answer for you Dave. In the smaller gauge sizes, you had to one-up the size, but I'm not sure on the larger gauge.
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:39 AM   #27
dsprik
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Thanks, Brad. I'll see what I can find out.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:58 AM   #28
SlickWillie
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Dave, I'm thinking a 100' run is a long run for #6 wire for a 50 amp service. I'm not sure how to calculate it, but you might want to touch base with your local power company for some advice on this.

If the wire connects inside your home service, I would stay away from the aluminum wire also. There is too much potential for a fire using the aluminum.
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:11 AM   #29
bsmeaton
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Don't discount aluminum because of Fire Dave - the problem is over-rated and primarily addressed the lower tier circuits as a result of poor quality devices and poor craftsmanship in connections.

Chances are if you got a quote from an electrician, it would be in aluminum. That is pretty common for a 50A circuit and may already be used in your existing house for your range, and maybe even the dryer and certainly the incoming service line, unless code driven otherwise.

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Old 09-08-2008, 11:59 AM   #30
HughM
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If aluminum is OK for a 100 ft. run then why is the 50 amp cord out of an RV made of 6 gauge copper? I've had several 50 amp RV's and they were all copper wire.
With copper being more expensive why do RV manufactures use it.
You can't built a house in the last city I lived in and use aluminum wire. The Fire Dept had the building code changed.
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:47 PM   #31
dsprik
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According to the publication posted previously, up to 100' is OK for #6. #4 is recommended for over 100'
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Old 09-08-2008, 02:15 PM   #32
bsmeaton
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Hugh,

The 50A cord on your Monty is exactly as you say, a "cord". It has nothing to do with fixed wiring so it wouldn't be fair to try to compare them.

I think everyone understands that there were fire issues with the all aluminum wired homes in the 70s, but you're not seeing the rest of the story. Aluminum or copper clad aluminum is still allowed today by the National Electrical Code (NEC) for circuits over 20A because the connections are not the same poor quality as those used for the 15-20A devices. My current house was built in 1994 and has aluminum wiring from the meter to the panel, and from the panel to the 50A AC, and so did all my houses before this, and I just bet yours does too. The cost of copper would be prohibitive for the contractors for the larger circuits.

Aluminum offers Dave a cheaper alternative and the best thing he can do is check with the local jurisdiction and make his own decision given facts rather than this discussion. I'm just betting that if Dave removed the panel cover on his house, he would find aluminum wire serving the existing panel main breaker.
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Old 09-08-2008, 02:23 PM   #33
dsprik
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I will check tomorrow (and an email to my inspector tonight) on codes and prices. Great info here guys!
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Old 09-08-2008, 03:49 PM   #34
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Thanks for clearing that up. I appreciate the input and now I know the difference.
Hugh
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