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Old 04-15-2019, 11:15 AM   #1
MaxwellD
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Tearing in to the underbelly

Dear Forum:

What are the best ways to tear into the underbelly and then patch it up after repairs? Are there specific tapes, glues or techniques anyone could recommend? No issue right now, but looking for advice if it becomes necessary (now that my warranty is out).

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Max
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:06 PM   #2
jsb5717
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I've used wide Gorilla Tape. Works great
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:33 PM   #3
MARK A
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Just take the fasteners out and drop it down. They come out fairly easily. Then replace with stainless screws and washers or I have re-used some of their fasteners.


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Old 04-15-2019, 12:49 PM   #4
RoadRunnerTR21
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Pop out the rivets to take the coroplast off and use 3/8" screws with a thin wide washer to put the coroplast back in place. That's what I do.
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Old 04-15-2019, 02:23 PM   #5
paul01
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Flex seal tape put it on and don’t worry about it any more. I tried the underbelly tape that is sold at rv centers for this and it did not hold any longer than it took to put it om.
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:10 PM   #6
waynemoore
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DO NOT cut. take out the fasteners and do it right. Had mobile service guy tale a knife to my rig and cut two hydraulic lines. Yep $1,00.00 to fix it.
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:56 PM   #7
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X2 ^^^^
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:26 PM   #8
mtlakejim
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If you want to do it right: Drill/pry out the factory fasteners and replace with self tapping screws and fender washers. The wide fender washers greatly reduce the chance of the screws ripping thru the corplast. Anything you can do to keep a good seal with the underbelly will help reduce the rodents that love to wreak havoc under the rig. I speak of experience, never let anyone take a knife to the corplast and then tape it up!!
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:56 PM   #9
rohrmann
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Absolutely do not cut into the belly coroplast. You will just be making more work for yourself and as was said, you risk unknown damage to hydraulic and electric that will be laying on the coroplast. They build these rigs upside down when installing things in the belly, then flip it over, hoping to never see it again. This is a photo of all the hydraulics and electric that had been laying on the coroplast and ultimately ended up hanging way down once the coroplast was removed. I installed hangers and cable tied all this up prior to repairing a crack in the grey tank.
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:46 AM   #10
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If you're capable of doing any repairs under the coroplast than you're capable of removing the coroplast and reattaching as so many have advised. It's just not that hard. The only reason to cut it is laziness, or you're over paying someone to work on it by the hour! If you're intent on cutting it than at least be careful and just barely cut through it with a razor knife, even that could still cause damage Make your U shaped cut so that the opening faces the rear in order to help avoid airflow trying to open the flap. DON'T BE LAZY!
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:41 AM   #11
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For the most part I agree not to cut into it if you don't have to. However, I unfastened/removed as much as possible on my unit so I could clean up and paint the badly rusted up frame. It would have been near impossible to remove it entirely since the drain lines and propane lines etc. are going through it. Some times you will have no choice but to cut it open which I did to assess the galley tank valve for replacement. Just cut 3 sides leaving the uncut side towards the front of the trailer to act as a hinge so you can fold it back into place and tape it up. As mentioned, Gorilla tape works good if you clean up the area with alcohol.
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:49 PM   #12
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Thank you all for the great information!
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:50 PM   #13
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Wow - that could have been an expensive! Nice job!
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:11 AM   #14
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I just dropped my coroplast to change a gray tank seals. You usually only need to drop about 3 feet of coroplast to work on your tank valves. Reinstalling the coroplast is not a big deal as many think it is. Just don't drop more coroplast than you need.
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:50 PM   #15
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Texan, Dropping it for the front 2 tank it easy like you state. The galley tank is a whole other issue.
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:12 PM   #16
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You are correct. I guess I should have stated that but the gray and black are the ones most people work on. I have more tolerance with the galley than the other two. Hopefully I want have to ever deal with the galley.
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Old 04-21-2019, 01:54 PM   #17
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I plan to replace all the self tappers holding the coroplast on our next new fiver with stainless screws. Had to open the belly on our 2011 Montana and snapped many rusted factory originals off. I'll add good sized fiber washers to help support the coroplast. Trying to decide on a spray on rust prevention for the steel beam while I'm at it.
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Old 04-21-2019, 02:13 PM   #18
mtlakejim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsmart View Post
I plan to replace all the self tappers holding the coroplast on our next new fiver with stainless screws. Had to open the belly on our 2011 Montana and snapped many rusted factory originals off. I'll add good sized fiber washers to help support the coroplast. Trying to decide on a spray on rust prevention for the steel beam while I'm at it.
You know I hadn't thought of that but undercoating the beams sounds like a good idea......
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Old 04-21-2019, 02:17 PM   #19
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I just realized, what ever spray is used, make sure it won't affect plastic (coroplast).
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Old 04-21-2019, 03:10 PM   #20
Texan
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Originally Posted by mtlakejim View Post
You know I hadn't thought of that but undercoating the beams sounds like a good idea......
I don't know if it's a good idea Jim or a lot of work. I don't think I or just about anyone else will keep there rv long enough to have the I-beams rust out.
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