Baggage Door Hinge

[bncinwv]

We will be monitoring our attachment points closely on the new rig. I like the idea of the backing plate, but my initial thoughts if we have problems are to install a backing plate that goes all of the way across the top of the doors to which both brackets can be attached. I would think this would spread the concentrated point loads across the entire top of the door. I guess the best solution would be to have a full door size plate that was both glued and screwed to the door??
Bingo

[rohrmann]

From what I can see, I don't think the stress on the strut brackets is a load issue. I think the primary cause of these brackets working loose is from the movement from the closed position to the open position. When the door is closed, the strut maintains pressure on the bracket, pushing it towards the door hinge. When the door is opened, the stress is reversed, and the weight of the door pushing on the opened strut is pushing the bracket toward the bottom/latch end of the door. This causes the brackets to move on the too small screws used to attach them to the door skin. I think, if the brackets were longer to start with, and attached with screws that were the same size as the holes in the brackets, we would not be having this problem.

[jcurtis934]

If you want to make sure that the bracket stays on the door, then try using 3M5200 behind the bracket and then installing the screws loosely in place and let it dry before driving home the screws. This is available lots of places like West Marine and is used by boaters to attach things to their fiberglass hulls that they want to stay there. My outboard motormount on my sailboat was held in place with it and the mount with the honda outboard (75 lbs for motor alone) never moved at all. This is what I am doing with my brackets on my 3800RE that use 60 lb struts for both sides of the passthrough. And same goes for the other storage door. It drys with some flex ability, isn't affected by stuff you may have slopped onto from the water,but if you want to remove the item that you secure with it...you have to take a small wire and use it in a sawing motion to cut through the bond. And if for some reason it doesn't work for you, it doesn't screw up the inside of the door like pop rivets that pull out, etc. john

[richfaa]

Good advise. That is pretty much what we did using Gorilla glue but I am going to find some of the stuff you mentioned, should not be hard here in Florida.

[jcurtis934]

Rich, it does take a week to properly dry and it is real important to use a lot behind the bracket and not tighten the screws too much. You want that nice layer of 5200 behind the bracket to form a gasket and bond the metal to the fiberglass of the door...so the old screw go back in loosely. And then using a better stainless metal screw with better threads and larger diameter than what was used by Keystone just makes for more piece of mind. Thing I noticed after doing this and while waiting out the week of dry time is how heavy these doors are! John...sitting at Riverside RV Resort outside Port Charlotte, Fl on the Peace River and enjoying 80's weather. Looking at the rest of the country, I'm glad I'm here and not there.

[richfaa]

The Gorilla glue is holding well. I check it often. It is not now a issue of the screws pulling out of the door. The door surface would have to rip away from the door. I do not think that will happen under normal use. Don't even think we would need the screws.

It was just a poor design. We did notice glue under the hinge on the newer Montana's at the rally so perhaps the issue is resolved.

[ranch560]

I just saw an ad for a company that specializes in hatch lifts and accessories in the RV Travel weekly newsletter. May be of use for some us who need backing plates, albeit a little expensive.

http://www.hatchlift.com/

[jlb27537]

After following this, I looked closely at my door brackets. There is a dark gray stuff between the bracket and door.

Maybe mine are both "glued and screwed" Still tight.

Jim

[jcurtis934]

I even saw a "kit" for sale at Camping World for fixing hatches that have brackets pulling loose. Didn't look close enough at it to tell what adhesive they were selling in the bag. Anyways, there are at least three of us with hatch doors that now work like they should have in the first place, even if two of us took matters into our own hands and brains. Rich, as long as your poly glue holds tight your are golden as well. John

[bethandkevin]

No adhesive on ours and still tight more than a year after installing larger size proper screws for the material being fastened.

[SRD]

Hi Bob,
I know this is an old thread, but was wondering if your fix for the basement door held? I need to do the same thing for my basement door.

Thanks
Steve