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Old 05-22-2009, 06:38 AM   #1
cmawendy
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5th wheel movement

How do you all stop the movement in your 5th wheel when someone is walking around?
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Old 05-22-2009, 06:52 AM   #2
skypilot
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Don't know that you can stop 'all' movement -- just the fact that some of the weight is on the wheel suspension will result in some movement. Several members have installed JT strong Arms (I think that is the correct name) - or similar devices -- which brace the coach to the landing gear and rear stabilizers and they have reported good luck. At least one member has reported installing HWH corporations leveling system which utilizes hydraulic jacks. Overall, from my readings I've seen many more report decent luck with the JT strong arms or similar.
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Old 05-22-2009, 06:55 AM   #3
BB_TX
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Many of us have installed JT Strongarm stabilizers and have been very happy with the result. There are also other brands with similar type systems.
Also some use the between the tires chocks such as BAL (I think it is) or similar. Have not tried those yet.
And some put bottle jacks under the frame near the suspension.
I used one of the king pin tripods for a while. Helped a little but not much.
The JT Strongarm stabilizers took almost all the movement out of ours and I have not felt the need for anything else (yet).
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:07 AM   #4
cmawendy
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Thank you for your replys, I think we will try the JT....
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Old 05-22-2009, 09:06 AM   #5
sreigle
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I don't think you ever get rid of all of it. We stopped totally the up and down movement by adding scissor jacks, bolted to the frame, behind the rear wheels. Just snug them so they don't lift the rig off the rear stabilizers. We have the JT equivalents from Camping World. They work pretty well when on a hard surface and not too much up and down angle. They work less well when on a soft surface (it helps to occasionally tighten them up as the rig settles into the softer ground.

Also, we use the between wheel BAL units, snugged tight as we can get them.

First, we put the yellow chocks behind the rear wheels, then back the rig into them so they are good and tight. Then the yellow chocks ahead of the front wheels, snugged with a rubber mallet. Then the BAL between wheel chocks. Holding those wheels good and tight seems to help. Then we unhitch and level the rig. Then lower the rear stabilizers one turn past snug. Next we tighten all the JT's as tight as we can, then bump the front landing gear up three quick bumps to put some tension on the JT's. Robbie Simons told me that trick and then when I called the JT equivalent mfr, the guy told me to bump them slightly to tension them. He said they don't put that in the manual as people will overdo it and might damage them. So three quick bumps is my limit. Last, I lower and snug the scissor jacks behind the wheels. This works well on concrete or blacktop, not quite as well on dirt or gravel but still much better than nothing.

Good luck.
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Old 05-22-2009, 09:50 AM   #6
2 Sinks
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I don't like any movement at all sooooo in addition to the front landing gear I have installed a pair of Bal crank down scissor jacks about 6 inches behind the landing gear.The factory rear jacks have been re-mounted to 4"x4" 1/4" thick metal tubing 12" long on each side.The slide out rear bumper rails/housings run through the tubing.The tubing is mounted to the frame and the jacks bolt to the 1/4" tubing instead of being tack welded to the flimsly slide rail housings.The above upgrade was quite involved and requires a oyx/act setup,grinders tap/dye set,arc welder,etc,etc.It took me about 6+ hours labor including painting.All 4 crank down jack feet have been fitted with a piece of 4"x4" super lightweight dunage 18" long to give a large footprint when cranked down.I put three coats of black spray undercoat on each piece of dunage.

There's more...I use the Bal ratcheting wheel chocks on each side between the tires and a tripod under the pin.I don't care for the stabilizers because they attach to the legs and offer no support for the over hang/bedroom/pin box area,I think the stabilizers may help with side to side movement but not sure.Think about how much the overhang/bedroom area must weigh? IMHO I beleive that area needs support. Cranking the tripod up tight does it for us.I'm a fanatic about having the trailer level and free of movement as possible.
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:44 AM   #7
H. John Kohl
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 2 Sinks


=snip-

There's more...I use the Bal ratcheting wheel chocks on each side between the tires and a tripod under the pin.I don't care for the stabilizers because they attach to the legs and offer no support for the over hang/bedroom/pin box area,I think the stabilizers may help with side to side movement but not sure.Think about how much the overhang/bedroom area must weigh? IMHO I beleive that area needs support. Cranking the tripod up tight does it for us.I'm a fanatic about having the trailer level and free of movement as possible.
If you are parked next to us I invite you to check the difference between your pin support and the JT's we have on our Monty. When demonstrating the JT's I invite someone to push sideways at the nose cap edge of our Monty with "FORCE". No movement. I then ask them to try theirs.
I use to use a pin support and have it to give away. The supports take out a lot(90% plus) of the swaying motion up front. Since I do not have the scissor jacks behind the wheels I do get a little down ward motion when walking even though I have the scissor pressure chocks between the tires. My 250 weight does have an influence.
Good luck.


Good luck.
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:27 PM   #8
2 Sinks
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Hello John...I'll take you up on that demonstration.I just may be in the market for a set of stabilizers.Pushing with force on the end cap is how I check mine during setup.As I walk from side to side adjusting the jacks and tripod for perfect level I'm always pushing on the cap watching for movement.Once everything is in place it's pretty much rock solid.It's all about stability.
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Old 05-22-2009, 05:32 PM   #9
deadeyenevermisses
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Back to the original posting................just holler: SIT DOWN!! .
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Old 05-22-2009, 05:53 PM   #10
jimcol
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In addition to what everyone else has said shortening the extension of the landing gear and rear stabilizers helps alot. 6X6's or the leveling blocks are ideal.
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Old 05-22-2009, 06:02 PM   #11
DONnANNIE
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We have the JT Stabilizers and if setup correctly, the 5ver does not have any sideways motion. I had a kingpin tripod that I used for awhile. Then I didn't use it. No difference. When I'm in bed, I can feel our two little dogs walking around the LvRm/Kitchen. I sold the tripod and bought two scissor jacks at Harbor Freight. I haven't used them yet, but I will next weekend. Our 3650RK is nearly 38' long and I feel that these jacks should reduce or eliminate the up & down bounce. I'll let you know the results.
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Old 05-23-2009, 12:24 AM   #12
Glenn and Lorraine
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I guess Lorraine and I are different than most. We used to do all the blocking, bi-pod, deluxe wheel chocks, et al. BUT this past winter in Florida I didn't use the deluxe wheel chocks nor the bi-pod. Yes, we have some movement but nothing we could not tolerate.
My theory on this movement is that it is a constant reminder that we are living the good life. If we wanted a very stsbile enviroment to live in we could have stayed in the stick house. Thanks but no thanks.

BTW-I still have those deluxe chocks and bi-pod and will sell them. If interested see me at the NE Rally.
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Old 05-23-2009, 03:41 AM   #13
hookman
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We did the Tripod and the between the wheel chocks. The Tripod was used for 2 trips and the wheel chocks for 3. I sold the tripod and had JT's installed. They have taken about 90% of the movement out except when the W/D is on a spin cycle.
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:17 AM   #14
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I just installed Steadyfast stabilizers and am quite pleased with them, don't know how they would stack up against JT's but they work pretty good. I have never seen a do-it yourself project so well organized. The instructions and photos are first rate and all the fasteners come in well labeled plastic bags. On sale now for $285/free shipping at
www.steadyfast.com
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:23 AM   #15
Lambchop
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We have just about everything & have the trailer at 90% No movement.

If only Montana would use a heavy plywood for the flooring, that would help in the spongy floor that all of them have! The OSB or what you call it, is junk. I've been in other SOB's that use plywwod & their floors are solid. I'm not talking about the slide outs, only the main flooring.

My two cents

Roy
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:00 AM   #16
sreigle
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2 Sinks, if you have a chance to take pictures some day, I'd like to see your setup.
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle

2 Sinks, if you have a chance to take pictures some day, I'd like to see your setup.
Steve- I'll get some pictures this week.

A question for those of you who have gone with the stabilizers.

Is roughly 90% of the side to side movement gone after the stabilizers are installed and adjusted? If so that leaves maybe 10% movement...possibly side to side or up and down. Has anyone tried using the tripod in addition to the stabilizers to shore up the bedroom overhang weight and take a percentage of the remaining 10% movement away ?

I'm interested in the stabilizers for the rear of our 5ver,I know you get the complete kit front/rear when purchasing.

Thoughts/recomendations past experiences...all replies are welcome.

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Old 05-25-2009, 06:26 PM   #18
PSFORD99
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 2 Sinks

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle

2 Sinks, if you have a chance to take pictures some day, I'd like to see your setup.
Steve- I'll get some pictures this week.

A question for those of you who have gone with the stabilizers.

Is roughly 90% of the side to side movement gone after the stabilizers are installed and adjusted? If so that leaves maybe 10% movement...possibly side to side or up and down. Has anyone tried using the tripod in addition to the stabilizers to shore up the bedroom overhang weight and take a percentage of the remaining 10% movement away ?

I'm interested in the stabilizers for the rear of our 5ver,I know you get the complete kit front/rear when purchasing.

Thoughts/recomendations past experiences...all replies are welcome.


I am in the process of fabricating my own stabilizers similar to the Steadyfast, I would like to do away with the tripod . Tripod works okay I guess, but everything I read the stabilizer arms work better. I feel there is no need to support the front,it takes a lot more punishment being towed than we can put on it.
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:44 AM   #19
BB_TX
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Quote:
quote:.......
A question for those of you who have gone with the stabilizers.

........ Has anyone tried using the tripod in addition to the stabilizers to shore up the bedroom overhang weight and take a percentage of the remaining 10% movement away ?
........
Thoughts/recomendations past experiences...all replies are welcome.
Our washer/dryer is in the front closet. Before I put the JT stabilizers on and while still using the tripod, when the dryer was running, it shook the whole 5er. After putting the stabilizers on, you hardly know the dryer is running. So I have seen no need to bother with putting the tripod out any more. I was going to give it away, but DW said to keep it "just in case".
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:31 AM   #20
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I'm also in the process of adding my own fabricated stabilizers to our 5er. They are similar to the JTs. I'm using 1/2" & 3/4" IMC conduit. 2sinks, after reading what you did in the rear of your 5er, you should have no trouble making your own stabilizers. So far I've only got the front side-to-side units in place. What a difference so far. Too many other projects started at one time! Jim
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