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Old 01-10-2016, 04:53 AM   #1
rmk123
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hot water trickle

Just flushed the winterizing RV antifreeze from our 2955 using the DC water pump. Have water in the onboard fresh tank-have left pump turned off. Hooked up to town water-filled the onboard hot water tank-left sink tap open till water ran out the hot water sink tap- turned on electric hot water element--can feel hot water at the main output of the tank. Now when I turn on any hot water tap in the trailer, I get a very slow trickle of water out and hear a loud "click" somewhere by the outside of the hot water tank or by the location of the DC pump. Have turned the bypass valve on the hot water tank both ways--does not remedy the situation??? Sure hope somebody has some ideas.---All suggestions welcomed---Thanks again,,Ron
 
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Old 01-10-2016, 07:26 AM   #2
DQDick
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There are a couple of check valves on both sides of the water heater. It could be the one on the exit side is stuck.
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Old 01-10-2016, 07:33 AM   #3
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Thanks DQdick---I can see both the input cold and output hot but cannot see any valve?? The heater is a Suburban--do they have them built it?? Ron
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Old 01-10-2016, 07:39 AM   #4
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Could your water heater bypass valve be closed?
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Old 01-10-2016, 07:42 AM   #5
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Actually,,,the problem fixed itself---hate that!!! now its impossible to trouble shoot--and thanks, the bypass is off---believe me-it was toggled back and forth a dozen times. Maybe the sticky valve is now free??? Still have to locate these valves---Ron
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Old 01-10-2016, 08:18 AM   #6
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by rmk123

Thanks DQdick---I can see both the input cold and output hot but cannot see any valve?? The heater is a Suburban--do they have them built it?? Ron
Didn't think about that, I have an Attwood. Here's info that applies to newer Suburbans, as you can see, on these the check valve appears to be the exit outlet on the heater: http://rv52.com/wp-content/uploads/2...air-Manual.pdf
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Old 01-10-2016, 08:48 AM   #7
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It's not a valve on the output of the water heater, but a metal fitting about inch and quarter long made of brass. There is a spring in the thing and they will stick closed...partially open...cocked sideways, etc. I would say yours is to the replace stage. And use two wrenches when you replace it, unless you want to replace the heater. John
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Old 01-10-2016, 11:32 AM   #8
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Thanks everyone----I've located the check valve on the output of the hot water tank---it magically is working now (probably because the tank and environment is up to temp.) Now to locate a replacement and install it----Cheers, Ron
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DQDick

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by rmk123

Thanks DQdick---I can see both the input cold and output hot but cannot see any valve?? The heater is a Suburban--do they have them built it?? Ron
Didn't think about that, I have an Attwood.
Dick, our 2008 & 2012 models have Suburbans. Didn't know Montanas ever had Attwood water heaters. Is this from factory or did you make a switch?
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:14 AM   #10
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No, had a senior moment when he didn't see what I meant. Atwood furnace, but Suburban water heater.
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Old 01-25-2016, 10:55 AM   #11
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Hi everyone--follow-up on the stuck valve---it was the one-way at the hot-"output" end of the hot water tank.---was replaced and now we have full pressure hot water---the valve is there to prevent back feed of "waterline antifreeze" when winterizing the hot water lines and you have turned the bypass valve on to circumvent the hot water tank. Ron
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