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Old 08-20-2006, 06:29 AM   #1
worknomore
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M.O.C. #2216
Replacing Slide Bolts

Has anyone found an easy way to remove & replace the 1/4-20 slide bolts that hold the square tube to the gear mechanisms (the ones that keep breaking)? I removed the nuts, & the bolts feel like they are almost pressed in.

Didn't want to start beating on them & screwing up the threads before finding out I couldn't get 'em out...

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Old 08-20-2006, 10:08 AM   #2
sreigle
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I had to unscrew mine all the way out, except the one that broke and fell out. A crescent on the square tube to move it just a little to remove some pressure seemed to help a little bit. I put the nut on the very end and lightly hammered it as far as I could, then screwed it out. The hole is not threaded so all you are doing is working it out by turning it. As you are finding, it's not as easy as I thought it would be.

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Old 08-20-2006, 01:25 PM   #3
worknomore
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Steve,

Thanks! - Thought that was what I was going to have to do. If you replaced them with 2" bolts, did you use washers to take up the gap between the tube & the threads...?

Jim & Bev
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Old 08-20-2006, 02:54 PM   #4
sreigle
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Yes, I did. I only did one slide because it was not as easy as I expected. Naturally, just a few months later I broke one on the slide I didn't change them out.

Maybe MIMF will come along and enlighten us all as to an easier way to get those old bolts out.

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Old 08-20-2006, 04:46 PM   #5
Hemlockusa
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Steve - sounds like you the expert,, what size bolt is it. I want to know and I will carry extra's - the size and length would be appreciate if anyone can help.
thank you John H

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Old 08-20-2006, 05:19 PM   #6
worknomore
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John,

They are 1/4-20 x 2" hex head Grade 8 bolts (per Lippert). The Grade 8 bolts have a higher tensile & shear strength than the run of the mill Grades 3 & 5 you find. Got mine at ACE hardware; HD may have them also. They have a copper/bronze color, rather than the zinc plated variety you usually see.

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Old 08-21-2006, 03:01 AM   #7
Bill and Ann
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I purchased Stainless steel bolts. No chance of them rusting.

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Old 08-21-2006, 03:50 AM   #8
Hemlockusa
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I have a question, are these bolts ment to '''SHEAR''' prior to damageing the motor or rack???? If so Bill and Ann purchased stainless steel bolts... I don't think they would shear if that was the design..

John

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Old 08-21-2006, 04:22 AM   #9
Ozz
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Hemlockusa

I have a question, are these bolts ment to '''SHEAR''' prior to damageing the motor or rack???? If so Bill and Ann purchased stainless steel bolts... I don't think they would shear if that was the design..

John

John,
I agree, we have to be careful when replacing design items, it is best to replace in kind, until we can get an answer from a slide engineer, from the 'Horses mouth' as it were.
Ozz

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Old 08-21-2006, 05:14 AM   #10
sreigle
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I got mine at Lowe's in Carson City, NV. HD did not have them when I was there. Same city.

My understanding is they are shear bolts. Someone said the stainless are not quite as strong as the grade 8. I'm not an expert. I'm just repeating what has been said in MOC on this in the past.

There are several posts from the Lippert expert, MIMF, about this and those are the bolts he says to get. So I think we already have the expert opinion.

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Old 08-21-2006, 04:03 PM   #11
campbud
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Does anyone have pics of this? Where are on the slide are they located? Trying to tell dh were to look..

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Old 08-21-2006, 04:19 PM   #12
Wrenchtraveller
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I think it would be prudent to stick with the Grade 8 bolts. 1/4 inch bolts take a 7/16th wrench so maybe a little ratchet and 7/16th socket may be a good thing to have. I have a full tool set with me as I work on the road so I also have a small pin punch as well. Campbud, if no one puts in a pic by tomorrow I will.
Grade 8 is identified by the 6 slashes and a little triangle that you see on the OEM bolt. They can come in black iron or plated in silver or bronze color. I would suggest if you start breaking these on a regular basis you are putting your slide out while too far out of level or your slide needs adjustment. I am no expert on slideouts but as a millwright I work on all types of equipement.

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Old 08-21-2006, 08:16 PM   #13
MAMalody
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>>>My understanding is they are shear bolts. Someone said the stainless are not quite as strong as the grade 8. I'm not an expert. I'm just repeating what has been said in MOC on this in the past.

There are several posts from the Lippert expert, MIMF, about this and those are the bolts he says to get. So I think we already have the expert opinion.
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Old 08-22-2006, 02:36 AM   #14
jrgwdenner
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Glen's becoming an expert at replacing these bolts. When we parked last Wednesday, the first one broke. Yesterday when we tried to bring the slides in, the other end, same slide, broke. It probably took some stress when the first one broke. Anyway, we now have one slide completely replaced, just not of our choice but of necessity.

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Old 08-22-2006, 07:09 AM   #15
sreigle
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Judy, does Glen have any tips he'd like to pass on?

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Old 08-23-2006, 06:25 AM   #16
worknomore
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Got 'em changed out w/the 2" Grade 8's. The only thing I did differently from what MIMF suggested was to use a bunch of Grade 8 washers as spacers on the unthreaded portion of the bolt, between the shaft & the nut. Thought that maybe, over time, the bolts may work themselves back out of the hole up to the threads & snap off again. Also used a jam nut on top of the nylok nut, & re-painted everything with Rustoleum...

An easy way of removing the old bolts (as Steve & MIMF suggested, if they haven't already snapped off) is to use a nut on the very end of the bolt & hammer on that to drive the bolt back out of the hole. I then used a drift pin punch to knock it the rest of the way out, & tapped in the new one. If its already busted, use the punch...

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Old 08-23-2006, 05:26 PM   #17
sreigle
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I'm not sure what MIMF said in this thread but at the rally he said to use washers as spacers, as you said, Jim. That's what I did, too. I used enough to allow the nut to tighten against them. I assume you did the same.

Dale, are the new Montanas coming with the longer bolt or will I need to swap these out on the new one? Thanks.

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Old 09-07-2006, 04:53 AM   #18
Outahere
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Ok, I don't get to get on the forum as much as I would like and when I do I always seem to see something new I didn't know was happening with out Monty's. Sreigle, Please explain to me or someone post a picture of just what you all are talking about on these bolts, that are breaking off.
Thanks, Mike

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Old 09-07-2006, 05:24 AM   #19
richfaa
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MIMF looked at mine at the GL regional rally In Aug (late 06 3400 build date of April 18,06) and we had all of the longer bolts (shear pins)

Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.

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Old 09-07-2006, 12:12 PM   #20
sreigle
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Mike, it's the small bolt at each end of the square tube that runs parallel to the coach under the slide. The bolts function as shear bolts. The originals in the older models were too short, so the threads were taking some of the turning force. That's a weak point and they'd shear off. It happened to us this past year in Utah. MIMF, a Lippert employee, recommends having replacements at hand. He recommends using a bolt that's a bit longer. Grade 8, 1/4 inch, 2 inches long, nylock nut, and several washers since the shoulder is long enough to need the spacers to tighten up against the nut.

Good to hear from you again. Tell Karen hi for us. Bella, too.

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