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Old 09-12-2012, 06:11 AM   #1
Gkerlin
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Solar install

I just completed an electrical upgrade on my rig.

It consisted of new batteries, cables, electrical monitor, inverter/charger, and solar panels.

This is my first attempt at posting pictures so hopefully it all works.

I did the project in 2 phases.

First was 4 new Trojan T-125's and a plastic (starboard?) battery box from fisheries supply
Positive and negative leads come from opposite ends of battery bank for balancing the load.





Upgraded battery wiring and distributions posts laid the groundwork for the larger inverter to follow in phase 2



I'm still working on the above wiring so the fuse and post protective caps are off. I'm going to put a shutoff switch in the 4/0 gauge for the inverter.

I also installed an Electrical monitor - a Trimetric 2025 - at this point. We then took off for almost 3 months. The EMON allowed me to precisely determine my electrical needs in a real life situation. This helped me to finalize my design when we returned.

Phase 2 consisted of Installing an AC Subpanel to accept the inverter loads, installing the inverter/Charger, and the panels.

I first pulled the AC panel and relocated 5 circuits (room for 8) that I wanted to power from the inverter.



the location under the desk in my rig was perfect as it allowed me to easily relocate the circuits.

Here is the new sub-panel next to the original one



After the sub-panel was done and tested ok I set out wiring the inverter. I was able to do some pre-wiring on the inverter and the Solar Controller & Circuit breakers inside the house on the bench where there was room and COOL air... (its been hot and humid here on the NC Coast this summer!

Prewiring the inverter. A Magnum MS2012



I installed the inverter on top of a wooden box I had laying around. I modified it a bit and it allowed me to get the inverter up off of the floor and out of the way in the basement. You can safely fit 6 6-packs of your favorite drink under the inverter.

I mounted the inverter on an aluminum plate with an air space under it for some additional cooling if needed.



After testing the inverter and charger I moved on to mounting the prewired Controller and fuse box.



My Panels consist of 3 series wired strings of 2 panels per string. A 144w + 68w Uni-Solar panel. Each string puts out about 49v. Total output of the array is approx 636w The 3 strings are then paralleled before the controller.

NEC requires that 3 or more series wired strings be protected by fuse or circuit breaker so I brought all 6 wires (a pos and neg from each string) down thru the Bathroom Grey tank vent.

The 3 negatives were then combined and run using 6awg wire to teh controller.

The 3 positives were led singly to the above circuit breaker box where each went thru its own 10amp dc breaker, then the 3 were combined, and run to the Controller.

From the Controller the positive then went back to the circuit breaker box and thru an 80amp (sized per the NEC) breaker then to the positive distribution post.

Here the cables go down the grey tank vent.



Getting the 6 #10PV wires out of the vent at first had me scratching my head. My concern was that if I filled up the grey tank - the shower not draining would be my first indication and the level of the shower pan is above where the wires would exit the vent so I had to make sure that it was waterproof or else water could escape around the wires.

I have to admit that I think my solution to the problem was quite ingenious!

I took 2 ABS end caps and some water tight cable fittings



I cut out a section of the vent line where the wires would come out and installed a couple of sanitary T fittings. Here is a picture of the parts - what it would look like once in place



The T on the left would be glued into the removed section of the vent tube.

The rest of the assembly would carry the wires (positioned to drain if they filled with water) with one branch of the second T carrying the 3 positives and the other the 3 negatives.

Here it is glued in place with the wires exiting. All water proof!



I ran the last wires up thru the wall and installed the Controller Remote and the Inverter remote, and finally the weather cooperated so that DW and I could get up on the room and do the peel and stick dance.

The finished product





The Gauges inside. Bottom left is the Trimetric 2025 installed in Phase1
Bottom Right is the Controller Remote and the Top (black) the inverter remote



Last but not least is the wiring diagram that I put together before I even started the project.

I obtained all the parts, read all the install instructions, and diagrammed the whole mess so that I would be sure that when I threw the breakers that we didn't go up in one big flash of light!



Before I finish here - I want to thank Joe Brown, John Walker, and John Kohl for your assistance, advice, ideas, and feedback. You all were a big help - graciously answered my emails and put up with my questions. Thanks to you all!

Now that I've done that - lets see if when I throw the "breaker" on this post if all the pictures show up.... that's the hard part of this project.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:21 AM   #2
NCFischers
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Nice installation. You're just down the road from us. We need to get together.
Jim
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:48 AM   #3
Gkerlin
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NC Fischers,

Thanks!

We almost made it to the rally in Myrtle Beach but got tied up selling my Sailboat. Now we're "Boatless in Beaufort"
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:57 AM   #4
Jolu
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Great job Greg. Looks well installed. Looking forward to seeing the install in person one of these days.
"No Smoke Is A Good Thing"
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:05 AM   #5
Gkerlin
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quote:Originally posted by Jolu


"No Smoke Is A Good Thing"
Joe
Unless it's coming from the Grill or campfire that is

I love your Goosenecks picture. I've been by there twice the last two years and wanted to stay either there, or in the Valley of the Gods, or up on Muley point, but both times it was pushing 100 degrees so we continued on to Wahwheep. Some things even solar wont cure.

I'll get there yet!
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:12 PM   #6
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Very nice job.
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:24 PM   #7
7.3Ford
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Really nice job Greg. I think you are the new Solar Expert.

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Old 09-13-2012, 01:20 AM   #8
Bigboomer
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Outstanding job! We will also be installing a solar system next spring and will certainly tap your ingenuity and tips. The wealth of knowledge on the MOC is amazing and the best part is that no one is trying to one up the next guy/gal but instead to make improvements and share with their fellow MOC'ers!
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:07 PM   #9
markwick
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One quick question - can you walk on the solar panels? - looks like your roof is quite well covered.How do you get around up there?
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:41 PM   #10
simonsrf
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How many total watts on all your panels?

Looks super! Thanks for the information!
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:25 PM   #11
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quote:Originally posted by markwick

One quick question - can you walk on the solar panels? - looks like your roof is quite well covered.How do you get around up there?
Yes you can walk on them with soft soles.

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Old 09-20-2012, 04:31 PM   #12
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question what if down the road you need to replace the roof can you take them off then putt them back on
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:33 PM   #13
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quote:Originally posted by simonsrf

How many total watts on all your panels?

Looks super! Thanks for the information!
Robbie,

He has 636 Watts of panels, 3 ea 68 Watt and 3 ea 144 Watt. Greg did great job laying them out. Three sets in parallel (one set is a 68W in series with 144W). I think if the sun is aliened, Greg should see 685 Watts of peak output based on what I get.

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Old 09-20-2012, 04:42 PM   #14
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quote:Originally posted by jimmy2

question what if down the road you need to replace the roof can you take them off then putt them back on
They are a one time deal, if you replace the roof, you will have to replace the panels too. The ePVL-144 (144 Watts are less than $200 now with shipping).
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:28 AM   #15
Gkerlin
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quote:Originally posted by markwick

One quick question - can you walk on the solar panels? - looks like your roof is quite well covered.How do you get around up there?
Sorry about missing the questions but I forgot to subscribe but John has me covered. I got alot of my ideas from John.

I left room behind the A/C at the rear so I can come up the ladder and service the A/C if needed. To walk forward you'll notice there is a walkway on the right side of the picture (Driver side of rig) I walk up forward there rather than on the panels just to play it safe, but I did have to walk on the panels some when I installed them.

I put a couple of pieces of blue foam board insulation down when I was kneeling etc just to play it safe and spread the weight a bit.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:40 AM   #16
Gkerlin
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quote:Originally posted by 7.3Ford

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by simonsrf

How many total watts on all your panels?

Looks super! Thanks for the information!
Robbie,

He has 636 Watts of panels, 3 ea 68 Watt and 3 ea 144 Watt. Greg did great job laying them out. Three sets in parallel (one set is a 68W in series with 144W). I think if the sun is aliened, Greg should see 685 Watts of peak output based on what I get.

I'm looking forward to seeing what they can do in Q in a few months!

Theoretically I should produce 24w less than johns 636 estimate. The reason is that although I have 144's and 68's - the amperage is slightly lower in the 68's than the 144's.

The 68's have the same amperage (but half the voltage) as the unisolar 136w panels so my 144's should be limited a bit by the lower amperage of the 68's. Downrated to 136w each.

You can match different voltage panels in series and you will add up the voltage. so a 33v panel and a 16.5v panel would equal 49.5v

the difference with amperage however can be a problem. In my case it is so slight as to not really matter, but if you matched a 5amp panel with a 3.5 amp panel for example, that 5 amp panel would only be able to output 3.5 amps as well and if you do the math that adds up to a big drop in output. there might be other issues with a large mismatch as well.

So when mixing panels - you need to be careful to match the amperage output.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:10 AM   #17
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I'm not trying to hijack this thread in any way, but what kind of meter are you guys using to measure the watts you are getting out of your panels? I've got the TS-RM-2 meter hooked up and don't see watts from the solar panels anywhere. I see volts, but not watts. Do I need another meter?
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:21 AM   #18
Gkerlin
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You can get watts with that meter. That's the one that I have. What controller do you have?
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:26 AM   #19
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The money ran out when I got to the controller so I'm using a Morningstar TriStar PWM 45a. Eventually I going to go with an MPPT, but for now the PWM will have to work.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:31 AM   #20
Gkerlin
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Each remote is subject to the limitations of the controller so I don't know what yours will show.

I have the MPPT60 and it shows amps and watts on the first level screen - you can toggle sideways thru that screen to see current output.. To see some facets of total output or pmax you need to connect to it with ethernet. The 60 is the only one (i believe) that allows for ethernet. I just started to play with that this weekend.

John Walker has a lot of experience with that end of it and will probably chime in with more (and better) detail.
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