Kitchen light switch?

[dsprik]

Well, I know I read something about those black rocker 12 kitchen light switch going bad, but I did a couple searches and I came up empty.

I have a 3400. I am going to tear the panel off tomorrow. It has become progressively stickier and stickier over the past 2 weeks. Now it is off and it won't move.

Any help/experience with this switch?

[Waynem]

Sometimes it is hard to find an exact replacement. However, if you look closely, the switch may come out of the "switch holder." There will be snaps to remove it and you can replace it with another that you can take out of the new switch holder. Unfortunately you will have to buy the whole switch but it keeps you from having to modify the wall by just replacing the rocker portion. Call me if this is not clear. 409-948-6843

[dsprik]

Hi Wayne!

I just bought a new automotive (12v) rocker switch today from a hdwr store. It was lighted, but I didn't have any other selection. $3.70. It had 3 prongs on it for the 2 connections. I figured out which two to connect by trial and error. Cheryl was disappointed because the light in the switch doesn't work (unless I rig up a 3rd wire ground). It works great.

As far as taking out the old switch, I discovered that the only good way to get the old switch out is to just break off the holding tabs with a pliers - then it comes right out. I spent way too much time trying to depress the tabs and push the old switch out at the same time.

Putting the new one in is easy as it can be pushed in from the front before pushing on the connectors.

Also the wire connectors were tough to get off - had to use a pliers. I was concerned that I might pull the wire out of the connector. That kitchen light switch is in a very awkward spot on the back of the panel. You have to be careful.

This was one of those learning experiences. Next time will take 1/10th of the time and pain.

Thanks for the help offer, Wayne. I may need a rain check for another day.

[HamRad]

Dave,

Of course by the time you have to do it again you will have forgotten all those valuable lessons you just learned!

Dennis

[dsprik]

quote:Originally posted by HamRad

Dave,

Of course by the time you have to do it again you will have forgotten all those valuable lessons you just learned!

Dennis

That's why I have my wife. "Honey, that's not the way you did that last time..."

[snfexpress]

Dave, you can get your LED light to turn on:

The ceiling light switch (12v), when turned on after having been off for a while would hesitate momentarily before completing the circuit. This is indicative of a failing switch.

So, I went to the local auto parts store (Checker, in this case) and purchased 3 new switches - each has a different color LED as an "On" indicator.

For "Earth", I tapped into the black wire that goes into a 3-wire connector and then onto the Fantastic Fan.

[dsprik]

quote:Originally posted by snfexpress

For "Earth", I tapped into the black wire that goes into a 3-wire connector and then onto the Fantastic Fan.

So, Michael, for the third prong on the back of the new led switch that the original switch doesn't have (my new one read "gnd" or "grd" - can't remember), I need to run a wire from "grd" to the ceiling fan switch?

[snfexpress]

Run "grd" from the switch to the black wire going into the 3-wire connector. You can use a "splice" connector.

[dsprik]

Thanks, Michael! I am going to be in Wally World tomorrow. This will give me something to do while the wife does the grocery shopping - I'll head to the automotive dept.

[Steve and Brenda]

Michael, that is a classy and effective modification to the panel. The switches rated same as or higher in amperage as the original ones? What were the part numbers if you recall?

[dsprik]

The one switch I didn't really need a light on it was the kitchen lights switch - kinda obvious if that is on. The other two switches, however, would really be beneficial as they are both outside lights.

I went to Wally World today and quickly realized I need to get to an automotive store. Very limited supply of switches - none of which would be suitable as a replacement. I will check at an auto parts store tomorrow...

[Waynem]

Dave,
Have Cheryl take a video recording of you while installing items. Then you can replay it back when you need it 3 years later.

Of course, you WILL have to edit the audio.

[dsprik]

Could be good evidence for the life insurance company also...

[snfexpress]

Here ya go....

Checker Part # 84841



and in-line 12v splice


They are a little shorter than the OEM rockers, but was not a problem as I merely put some black electrician's tape on the back of the plate and then placed a drop of super glue on each edge. In 5 months, they have stayed put and still look nice.

[dsprik]

Michael, where is the ground line to splice into? I thought I could figure it out, but I can't... Also bought some cheap lighted rocker switches from the local auto store. Two of the three new switches broke before I could get them all the way in. Will be back to the auto store tomorrow.

[snfexpress]

It's the black wire going into the 3-wire connector that goes onto the Fantastic Fan. Disconnect the 3-wire connector and try to turn on the FF. If it doesn't come on, you have the right one (I think there is only one, anyway!).

[dsprik]

Ok, I saw that three wire connector to the FF. I will pull the panel back off tomorrow and pick up some splicers when I go back to the auto parts store tomorrow. Thanks!

[dsprik]

MINOR MALFUNCTION.

OK, Michael, I have another problem. I put grd wires on all three of my new switches. I then spliced them all together. Then I spliced them into the black FF wire.

All switches work, only at first the FF came on with the kitchen light switch in the "OFF" position. The lights all lit up except for the middle switch (Floodlights). I thought that maybe I had the wrong wire, so I cut my makeshift community ground wire off the black and spliced into the blue wire. Now the FF runs all the time.

The FF control panel has no lights on it and it is unresponsive, but the FF keeps running. I pulled the three prong connector and the FF continued to run. Not sure what's going on. I then got out the trusty footstool and turned off the switch right on the FF itself. Guess what - no effect. FF continued running at a constant midrange speed. I pulled the glass fuse next to that switch and the FF finally died. I manually closed the lid.

What did I do? Did I short something out??? Can't believe I could disconnect the FF control panel from the FF and have it still run... I have left the fuse out of the FF for now until I have someone tell me what in the heck I did. All the new switches work, but no lights. Maybe I have to ground each of those switches individually to a separate ground and not to each other? That doesn't seem to make any sense either. I don't know...

Help?

[Steve and Brenda]

Dave, did you use the same switch as Michael? What was the wiring diagram for the switch you used? Could be you wired it incorrectly. If you have a multimeter check the switch for the line and load side using the OHMS function and recheck your wiring. Also, there should be an Earth ground very close to the panel for the washer/dryer plugs and/or ceiling fan switch. Remember your safety but it might be better to reset your FF to original and ground your switches to the green wire the AC lines run on.

[dsprik]

Thanks, Steve. I have not dug around too much trying to find another earth ground - did look a little and couldn't see anything but a mass of wires. I will try tomorrow. I have a multi-meter, but I am not that well versed in using it - especially to find grounds. I still have the splice on the black and blue wires. I just cut my makeshift ground wires off of both of them, leaving the splice still attached. I was wondering about cutting that splice (same as Michael has shown above) itself off the lines and re-splicing the lines back together. Not sure what difference that would make on re-setting the FF. How do you recommend I re-set that FF?