Apollo Door Latch - Help

[Tinka N Rick]

I need help quickly. We just put food in our Apollo microwave and when shutting the door, the door latch broke.
Now the door won't open.
I need to know how to remove the door before the food rots.
Thanks.

[bsmeaton]

Sorry to hear you didn't get a chance to eat . Not the first time this has happened.

I used a less conventional fix, but the correct answer is you have to remove the cabinet trim ring, slide out the Apollo, remove the exhaust fan and shroud, remove all of the backing screws, and slide the oven out of it's housing so you can access the latch. There are two pinned torque screws in the back that will take a special driver. If you don't have one, chisel the heads of the screws off.

There are a few that have actual experience and will probably post.

[illapah]

Can't remember, isn't there a way to open it with a table knife? Seems as if I recall something about that. Anyone recall?

[nailbender]

We couldn't get ours open and I thought the handle was broke. I took it apart as Brad described and found a metal bracket that held the handle was bent. I bent it back and everything worked fine. The hard part was taking everything apart,the assembly was easy.

[Tinka N Rick]

Thanks for all the information. The knife solution doesn't work.
I guess I'll go about it the way Brad described. It'll have to wait till morning. I guess the steaks will be thawed out by then.
I was tempted to pry the thing opened, but we don't want to go without it until we get back in the States in April. We're already without the refrigerator.
Thanks again.

[Charlie]

If you tried to lift up on the bottom of the door with the knife and it did not work refer back to Brad's post. Remove the trim, pull the microwave out far enough to get to the screws on the bottom hinge. Loosen these screws, let the hinge drop down and the door will open. Bad thing about this you will have to complete Brad's procedure to get the door back on along with a replacement part that releases the door.

Been there..... done that......

[Parrothead]

We loosened the hinge and got it open. Knife trick didn't work. Then we did Brad's thing to replace the latch. But getting the door open via the hinge at least got the food out.
Happy trails............................

[Clyde n Deb]

I think there's a post in Ozz's mods that shows in detail, with pics, this procedure.

[hazmic]

Boy, we have done this before. Like Brad has said you need to remove the Apollo from the place where it is at and dissemble it to repair. If the rocker as I would call it has broken you need to contact Lynn for a new one. 1-800-772-7262 or 1-574-472-4283 and hopefully you get to talk to Lynn or the one that answers will pass the message that you need to talk to her. She is really a great gal. I would be careful about chiseling off the two screws with the funny head,pounding on something with electrical components might be the best thing to do. If you need more info PM me.

[Ozz]

I screwed my two 'special driver' screws out with a regular screwdriver, just had to try three or four until I got a good fit.
They did not go back in...
Check this slide show out:
here

[Tinka N Rick]

Thanks everyone. I currently have the unit out and all but one screw. I have a torques head driver, but only one screw came out. I'm drilling the head off of the other one.
Ozz, the slide show was very helpful.
Thanks again,
Rick

[Tinka N Rick]

Well, the repair lasted about 3 days. The ear containing the small plastic hinge pin was almost broken off. I repaired it with superglue. It worked fine until the door was slammed, then it broke again. I contacted Apollo and they are sending a new rocker component out at no charge. I won't get it until we get back to the states, so I'll try another repair. This time I'll use some plastic to reinforce the tab. I may go with gorilla glue this time.

[richfaa]

Thy shalt not slam the door of the Apollo oven lest it will break the door handle.

[Ozz]

I super glued it, then backed it up with a Copper electrical fitting, encapsulated with a 2 part epoxy. You would have to hacksw it to get it to come apart. It's in the slide show.

[bsmeaton]

Is it just the density of the plastic injection for those parts? I was looking at my new microwave as well as the one in our stick house that has been there for 6 years and they look the same and I've never had trouble with almost 200% more use.

[bncinwv]

Richfaa speaketh the truth much as an Amish old-world craftsman would!!! I have tried to tell DW about the fragility of the unit and the corresponding door slams to no avail..
Bingo

[Ozz]

The weak link is the tab protruding on either end, there wasn't enough 'meat' around them. They should have made the piece a little beefier around that part.

Dang, I'm craving a cheeseburger for some reason.....

[hazmic]

I thought that you was getting a new part? The new ones are not plastic like the old ones. Do you still need the one that I have?

[Ozz]

Mickey, my man.... I have fixed the formerly defective part, transformed it into the Incredible Hulk of Half Time oven parts, it should be the standard bearer for the replacement parts category.
Thank you for the kind and generous offer, you are a good friend.
Ozz

[Tinka N Rick]

OK, thanks for all the help. By the way, Gorilla glue doesn't stick to the plastic. The two part epoxy seems to do it.

However, now I seem to have a power problem. It is very noticeable when doing the timed defrost. When the high power kicks in it drops our voltage meter from 120 volts down to 110 volts. Maybe I didn't notice it before but the sound is a little different. More strained sounding.
I'm pretty sure that I got the fan wires in correctly. Neither has special markings, but the fan blows out rather than sucking in.