Desperate for hitch advice

[gherman49]

I have a 2007 Duramax, short bed, 2500 Silverado HD and need to have a hitch installed for my 2004 3295RK. My old hitch was a non-slider and I had no problems turning (or pulling), but it was installed by the dealer about 2 inches behind the axle. I don't think that was a good way to go. I am looking at the Pullrite 18k superslider or the Reese Signature series 18 slider (manual). I know that a new hitch installation will be farther forward than my old one, so feel a slider may ne necessary. I am interested in any final suggestions before I purchase one -- hopefully this week! Which hitch do you recommend? On the slider hitches (Pullrite and Reese), are there any tailgate clearance problems when sliding -- or other issues I need to be aware of? It seems to me that the Lippert 1621 kingbox extension can't take a lot of slide before it contacts the rear of the truck! I appreciate your posts.

Glenn Herman
Las Cruces, NM
No real profile yet!

[Montana Sky]

Glenn,
I have the Superglide automatic hitch and highly recommend them. As you can see by my picture I have the same truck as you. You really want to make sure the hitch is mounted in the proper location. By having a hitch mounted behind your axle you are causing weight to transfer from the steering axle to the rear axle which could result in loss of control. The cost of the Superglide is more expensive than the Reese manual sliding hitch, but the repair cost of fixing the back of your truck and front of the coach will far exceed the cost of the Superglide. My suggestion is get the Superglide for your short bed truck.

[Wrenchtraveller]

Montana Sky is right on the money and for a fifth wheel to handle properly the pin must be dead centre over the axle centre or up to 3" forward ( towards the cab ) never behind the axle.

[Glenn and Lorraine]

Ditto on what Montana Sky had to say. In fact the following is a copy of my previous replies on this very subject...


If you look at my signature you will see my Montana is hooked to my short bed GMC using a PullRite 16K SuperGlide Automatic Sliding hitch.
I am firmly convinced that the PullRite SuperGlide automatic sliding hitch is the only hitch for shortbed trucks. Although an automatic sliding hitch may cost a little more up front, it has some decided advantages. First, it rules out the possibility of forgetting to slide the hitch rearward before turning. To me this peace of mind of never having to remember to get out of the truck and manually push or pull some lever to activate the slide mechanism is worth every penny of the difference in price. Not to mention the temptation of leaving a manual slider in the potentially unsafe rearward position during highway driving. Also, there are times when manually operating the hitch is virtually impossible, such as during emergency U-turns or when the trailer jackknifes on icy roads. Under these conditions, the extra cost of an automatic sliding hitch could easily be recouped in damages prevented.
Just forget to pull that manual lever one time and take out the rear window, http://tinypic.com/eslrf8.jpg”]like this guy did[/url], or do body damage to either or both the truck and trailer and I promise you will wish you had that automatic slider. The SuperGlide has an automatic rearward travel of up to 14" while making a turn, going forward or in reverse, that's 50% farther than the manually adjusted "slider" designs. In some cases, turns as tight as 90 degrees are possible.
The SuperGlide also features the unique, gear driven, automatically locking, latching mechanisms. You won't be dropping the trailer accidentally because there is no safety lever, pin, or locking handle to mess with. They way it works is the SuperSlide wraps 140 degrees around the king pin totally enclosing it into the latch. There is no "clam shell" closure that might open if you forget to lock the release handle in place. The reason the clam shell hitches have potential of dropping the trailer is all the force is pulling against the opening of the latch. When you back into the SuperGlide you can watch the release handle slide closed. You can also get out and look directly into the opening where the king pin slides into place and see the silver latch totally wrapped around the king pin. This positive locking mechanism is as close to foolproof as you can get. If the release handle is all the way in, the hitch is locked, period.
Another plus is when the hitch is out of the truck "everything" is out of the truck. Absolutely nothing, no rails, no nothing left in the bed to interfere with whatever you want to haul.
You almost have to see it to believe it, either go to your RV dealership and take a look at the display model or contact PullRite and request their FREE video showing the hitch in action. In the mean time read this http://www.rvlifemag.com/file304/rvtip304.html”]PullRite Article in RV Lifestyle[/url].
When you consider the total overall cost of the your 5er, your tow vehicle and a manual slider what is another few hundred bucks for the safety, security and peace of mind of a PullRite SuperGlide hitch?

[Emmel]

Before I had the Mor-Ryde pin installed I had the same pin box, the Lippert 1621. I have the Reese slider in my sb and have so far, never used it. I don't know if I have been lucky not needing it, but at least it's there if I do. This hitch is 6 years old now and I have used it on both my Montanas. I would definately recommend a slider, you have to justify the cost, which could just be your own satisfaction. I suspose I should try using it once to see if I know how and that it works!

[gherman49]

I am sold that i need a slider. Will I have a problem with my tailgate?

[Emmel]

I have a fifth wheel tail gate that I use when towing. In the winter as long as we are here in Ohio, I put the stock one on. Before I bought the fifth wheel I never had any trouble, I just got tired putting it up and down.

[exav8tr]

Glenn, My dealer installed a Husky (Valley), 16k super roller, manually operated slider hitch, mounted under the bed and easy to remove. He said with the Montys new indented front cap, I will be able to get 85 degrees of turn with a normal hitch and with the slider 90 degree plus. Who knows, I have never pulled it yet (still in winter storage). I will try this one for awhile and possibly upgrade later if I see a need. I wasn't savvy when we bought ours, however, I did know I needed a slider of some kind. I saw a push button operated (from the truck cab) model, but was over $2,000. Think I will try mine for awhile. I do like the idea of being able to remove the hitch fully as this is my only vehicle. Just IMHO.

Hope this helps somewhat......

[Montana Sky]

Glenn(gherman49),
I run a 5th wheel V-tailgate all summer as it makes hooking and unhooking easier. I have also used my factory tailgate while towing. It does not matter which tailgate I run; they do not interfere with the operation of the Superglide.

[ken]

Glenn
We have the 2005 GMC crew cab with the standard short bed. we have the Reese Signature 18k hitch with a slider. we tow a 05 3475 montana and so far, have never had to use the slider. we have enough space between the cab and the Montana to make the turns. I can see that there will be times on an angle that the slider will come in handy. We replaced the Lippert 1116 hitch with a mor/ryde hitch which was the exact same length recently.

[Illini Trekker]

Like the Reese Signature 18k hitch with a slider I have. I have not HAD to slide yet ether but have used it to keep in practice and lubed. Installed the hitch with its under the bed mounts, about a 5hr job. One big plus about the hitch is its weight and it does come out easy with a clean bed. With there instructions 2200lb tung weight added 40lbs to the front axle. I also would warn to watch the degree the truck is setting to the trailer as if you do slide you can hit the tail gate with a turn. So just leave the tail gate down, with no problems.

[sreigle]

Glenn, if you go with a manual slider, I suggest you talk with the installer before he installs the hitch and tell him you want the pin center directly over the center of the axle. I once talked with an installer and he was going to install the same as in a longbed, two inches forward of the axle center. That's the way he'd always done it. But instructions say for a shortbed it can be directly over the axle. He did it my way and I have never regretted it. Had he put it two inches forward, that would have considerably reduced my turn radius.

As Dave said, pincenter behind the axle is not a good thing.