Stove Converted - Montana Owners Club

bobsals · 04-26-2011, 07:35 AM

Greetings, from the post by "Mel" regarding lighting the stove oven, I followed the link to RV.net and the conversion to electronic ignition. Well, since I am usually the one to be the contortionist to light the oven, decided to go ahead and install the conversion. There was no way I could do it in place so removed the stove and took it into my shop. It was simple to remove. Gas line right on top, four screws into the counter and two screws under the bottom.
Went to Home Depot and got the ignition module and the ignitor. Could not find the ignitor on Home Depot website but it was right in with all the other Char-Broil accessories. If you do the mod, make sure you get the right ignitor kit. The model number is 4685.

Unfortunately, the only thing that was used in the kit was the long probe ignitor and the attached wire. There is only one Charbroil electronic ignition module and the sku# was 300345.
Once in the shop, the lower burner assembly was removed. The only thing I had to fight with was pulling the burner tube off the oriface. They put an internal spring retainer there and you have to finegle to get it out. And the same for re-installing it. Once the burner was removed, drilled a 3/16" hole in the burner plate and installed the ignitor with a 3/16" machine screw and nut. Reinstalled the burner and pilot tube, ran the ignitor wire up the back into the top of the stove. I had a piece of sheet metal laying around so made a heat shield for the wire. Probably don't need it but installed it because it was easy. The only thing left was to enlarge the hole for the module after removeing the old "clicker". I found it to be easy to just remove the black front bezel. Two top screws and two on each side on the bottom of it and it came righ off. Used a 7/8" step drill to enlarge the hole. Installed the wires into the spade connectors. each wire had a round female connector, so just used a very small screwdriver to open up the connector a bit and they all slid on pretty easy. I took a piece of shrink tube and slid it over the new ignitor wire before pushing on the pin. The poster on RV net said they contacts would arc if not protected. I had no arcing. Once it was all back together, I connected up a propane tank I had in the garage with a 3/8" flare nut and tested it. The stovetop burners light right away. The oven did not light. Found out that the tip of the ignitor wire needs to be just about 1/4" from the very tip of the pilot tube. Once that was adjusted, it lit every time.

. Reinstalled the oven back in the unit, connected the propane line and all mounting hardware. Because it had been sitting all winter, it took a bit to purge the line out but when bled, all worked great including the oven burner. There are two screw holes in the bezel that do not get used with the new module. I had a couple plastic 1/4" black plastic "body plugs" that fit nicely into the hole and just needed to be trimmed a little. Alls well that ends well. Now, just have to install a video camera in the oven so I can tell when the pilot is lit..

H. John Kohl · 04-26-2011, 08:53 AM

Great job, thanks for the post.

Jolu · 04-26-2011, 09:10 AM

Who would have thunk it. That is a great mod. If Ozz sees this it will be on his list of Mods.
Thanks for sharing.
Here is the link for the RV.Net posting you mention.
Electronic Ignition

firetrucker · 04-26-2011, 10:20 AM

What a great idea. I just bought both the electronic ignition module, and the manual ignitor that bobsals mentioned, on Amazon for $21 and change, plus free shipping with Prime. It'll be here Thursday, but don't ask when it will get installed.

Bob

jjackflash · 04-26-2011, 10:37 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by firetrucker

What a great idea. I just bought both the electronic ignition module, and the manual ignitor that bobsals mentioned, on Amazon for $21 and change, plus free shipping with Prime. It'll be here Thursday, but don't ask when it will get installed.

Bob

Hopefully before 7 Feathers,I want to see that work!

jackel1959 · 05-05-2011, 05:32 PM

Bob or anybody else,
I have started gathering the materials to do this upgrade. We have a "Magic-Chef" stove/oven and the top burners only have one igniter for all 3 burners as seen in the photos. With the new Charbroil igniter there are 4 output terminals. One of those will be for the burners and another for the oven pilot. I am assuming I will need to somehow "shield" the unused terminals to prevent arcing. What would be the best way to do this?

Thanks,
Jack

firetrucker · 05-05-2011, 06:13 PM

I've taken my stovetop off to get ready to install the ignitors and have the same setup as you do. I'm going to take all the hardware off and mount the ignitors right next to where the holes are in the burners that let the propane flow down the tubes to where the old ignitor is. Means I'll have to get a couple of more ignitors, but I think it will work better that way.

If you want to use the old ingnitor, I'd go to the local electrical or auto parts store and get some insulated spade terminals or even some PVC shrink tubing to put on the unused terminals.

Bob

bobsals · 05-05-2011, 11:56 PM

Jack, I think firetrucker is right on. If you just take a short 1" or so piece of shrink tube that can slip on snugly over the pins I'm sure that will be sufficient. However, I would not try to shrink them.

jackel1959 · 05-06-2011, 04:36 AM

Thank you both for your replies.....shrink tubing it is. I'm going to stay with the on igniter for the stove top to start with and see how that works.

r,
Jack

bobsals · 05-09-2011, 10:30 AM

Greetings. Just returned from Walmart. If anyone is interested in converting their stove to electronic ignition, Walmart has a generic kit in their store for $17. That includes the pushbutton control box and the igniter probe. Located in the gas grill accessories area. What is odd, is the pushbutton control box looks just like the Char-Broil.

snfexpress · 05-09-2011, 02:12 PM

Okay, can someone post a picture of the ignitor installed in the stove? The Charbroil one doesn't seem to fit, so I've been looking for a smaller one.

jackel1959 · 05-10-2011, 05:26 AM

bobsals,
Could you post a photo of the installed ignition module on your stove/oven control panel? I picked one up Sunday, and although it will fit it looks like it might not fit the way I think it should. It looks like if I make the hole bigger to accept the push button portion of the module it will leave quite a significant gap where the current hole is. A picture is worth a thousand words as they say.

Thanks in advance,
Jack

bobsals · 05-11-2011, 02:27 PM

Sorry Jack it took so long for me to reply. I just returned from being out of town. The first thing I am thinking of is, is your stove an Atwood? If so, the module should fit with about 1/4" clearance from the main burner manifold. Not sure what you are referring to when you say a gap, but hope the photo helps.
Bob

jackel1959 · 05-11-2011, 05:27 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by bobsals

Sorry Jack it took so long for me to reply. I just returned from being out of town. The first thing I am thinking of is, is your stove an Atwood? If so, the module should fit with about 1/4" clearance from the main burner manifold. Not sure what you are referring to when you say a gap, but hope the photo helps.
Bob

Bob,
Thanks for the reply. Our stove/oven is a Magic Chef by Maytag. The igniter module will fit but will sit on top of the manifold on this make/model and will not be able to be angled at the angle of the front bezel and still fit within the available space. I am working on a solution and need to toy with some different hardware configurations to make it work. Once I figure it out I will post some photos for everybody who has this make.

Jack

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