Norcold Fridge and Sheet Metal. Is this right? - Montana Owners Club

Bierp · 08-20-2018, 05:47 PM

Ok, so we're back at home base and fully moved out of the house. Vacation is done and it's time to get back to work and relax. ...wait...that's not right.

For the past six weeks we've been limping along on the Norcold 2118 that came in our new 2018 3950BR. It hasn't been cold enough and while I'm aware of (and sometimes part of) the multiple threads about issues with fridges not cooling for numerous reasons, I haven't had sufficient opportunity and means to check everything. Specifically the top vent.

Today, at long last, I did. What I'm seeing immediately concerned me. There's a piece of sheet metal blocking half of the vent area.

That can't be right, can it? The top vent is specifically intended to move heat out. Does blocking it make sense?

Here's the picture. Maybe it's trying to move the air over the fins, but I'm skeptical. Tell me if I'm way off base.

-Jeremy

Lenny K · 08-21-2018, 02:13 PM

That's the way it should be. The fans then blow the air up giving a good flow of air up and over the fins.

1retired06 · 08-21-2018, 02:27 PM

I had the Norcold in the 10 and a dometic in the 15. No sheet metal like you showed. Maybe different in the 18.

BuilderBob · 08-21-2018, 04:08 PM

That is how it is spose to be for the fans to move air over the fin's. Don't take it out like some other people have done and find out the frig works even worse.

Butch & Kathy · 08-21-2018, 06:01 PM

You should mount one or two computer fans to suck out the hot air. Your fridge will run much more efficiently.

rohrmann · 08-21-2018, 06:37 PM

Attached is the page from the Norcold install manual for our 1210, and I'm pretty sure it will be similar to the 18xx model for a slide installed fridge. The baffle is needed to force the air to fully pass by the cooling fins before exiting, so do not remove it.

Bierp · 08-21-2018, 07:48 PM

Ok, thanks folks.

I kinda freaked out because it was blocking so many of the vents in the cover.

Yeah, I know this thing wasn't installed right and I know I'm going to need to get better ventilation done. I also need to get the doors working right. /sigh.

beeje · 08-22-2018, 06:20 AM

Read up on fridge baffling and make it right. The manufactures rarely get them installed correctly. Had to fix every one I have owned. As mentioned, install some extra fans, one at the bottom vent sucking air in blowing up into the coils and one at the top vent drawing air up and out. The top fan will be mounted different depending on where your fridge is installed ie. in a slide or not.

Lenny K · 08-22-2018, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bierp

Ok, thanks folks.

I kinda freaked out because it was blocking so many of the vents in the cover.

Yeah, I know this thing wasn't installed right and I know I'm going to need to get better ventilation done. I also need to get the doors working right. /sigh.

Do you hear your fans working?

Bierp · 08-22-2018, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lenny K

Do you hear your fans working?

I thought this was the whole problem at one point, but I did see them running...once. Most other times I don't though and I suspect there are issues there as well.

Lenny K · 08-22-2018, 06:08 PM

You should be hearing your fans running lots. It could be the Thermostatic Switch https://rvcoolingunit.com/Fan-Switch...-P1802601.aspx is not working properly. The switch is located on the condenser coil at the top of the fridge. Easy to replace and costs about $16.00.

The reason I know all this is because my fans were not running and this fantastic forum provided all the info required to correct this problem.

Bierp · 08-22-2018, 06:44 PM

Hmm, interesting. That's a Dometic switch. Does Norcold use the same kind of thing?

Bierp · 08-22-2018, 06:46 PM

Answer: Yes. Same part, but under Norcold.

Thanks, I'll check into this for sure!

Wyatt Earp · 09-02-2018, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bierp

Answer: Yes. Same part, but under Norcold.

Thanks, I'll check into this for sure!

That switch also allows one to adjust the cooling. Could it be something as simple as moving the switch up or down the fin?

Bierp · 09-02-2018, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wyatt Earp

That switch also allows one to adjust the cooling. Could it be something as simple as moving the switch up or down the fin?

The thermistor (inside the fridge) can be adjusted by movement on the fins, but this piece is external and is screwed directly into the fin, so it can't be moved.

I did replace mine the other day. I appeared to be getting 12v on one side and nothing on the other, which indicated to me that either the switch wasn't open or it wasn't working. Considering the heat coming from that area, I figured it was the 2nd option.

Replacing it, however, didn't do peep, which was a bummer. I haven't seen the fans kick on at all in weeks and I've really only ever seen them on once. I haven't actually checked the temperature on the fins, but this seems to be a big part of my problem.

I've ordered an infrared thermometer so I can confirm the fin temps, but in the meantime I'm open for what else to check to make these silly things kick on. I'm thinking of bypassing the thermal switch entirely just to see if the fans kick on, but I don't have a piece handy to do it yet, and, you know, it's Labor Day weekend.

Butch & Kathy · 09-02-2018, 08:38 PM

In addition to extra vent fans I installed an ARPRV

https://www.arprv.com

Also remember that every time you open the fridge door you must wait a LONG time for it to catch up. Install a remote thermometer to view the temp in the fridge. DONT open the door, it takes a long time to cool back down. Get this.

https://smile.amazon.com/AcuRite-009...or+thermometer

BradM · 09-02-2018, 08:52 PM

I'm also having the same problem. I picked mine up yesterday from service after them having it for a month and they said norcold said it was installed wrong. they cut the sheet metal 4" as instructed by norcold. its been plugged in over 12 hours and its only at 20/60 degrees. don't hear the fans run very often

paulinbaja · 09-03-2018, 09:33 AM

This is a new unit. A competent dealer should do the trouble shooting and repair under warranty.

Dave W · 09-03-2018, 10:38 AM

Since ours also has a 1210, and is working just fine to date with that baffle, haven't installed my two supplementary 120 mm fans as yet. That assembly will be installed in the next couple weeks along with a separate snap adjustable thermostatic switch (https://www.amazon.com/SUPCO-AT021-A.../dp/B00271FKQY). I did a bench check and it works perfectly.

When you wander the 'net for computer fans - all seem to be 12VDC - make sure that you look at the CFM rating (cubic feet/minute)as well as bearing type. Too low CFM, waste of your time and dollars. Bearings if chosen wrong can be annoyingly loud and have a short life. I like these and have even replaced the converter - charger fan with a 100mm version - Arctic F12 Silent Ultra Quiet case fans (found on Amazon, Newegg, etc)

Bierp · 09-03-2018, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paulinbaja

This is a new unit. A competent dealer should do the trouble shooting and repair under warranty.

You’re correct, but that has some challenges for me. We live in this unit full-time. Scheduling therefore becomes a challenge.

I’m going to need some dealer work done, of course (including non-refer issues), but the more I can solve myself, the better.

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