Hot Water Heater Check Valve

[Vikinghb]

I have a failed check valve, and I cannot figure out hot to access the back of the water heater (Suburban 12 gallon). I have a 2014 Montana Big Sky 3850fl.
I took panels off in the basement and no luck.
I am starting to think I’m going have to remove the water heater.
Here are some pics of the outside and inside where the back of the heater would be.
Help!

[Vikinghb]

No idea why pics are upside down.

[Mikendebbie]

This looks like a small access panel (screen shot below).
Have you tried removing the basement bulkhead wall to see if you can see it on the other side of the furnace?

[Vikinghb]

It's a solid panel, and it would be 2 feet from the heater. I'm stumped.

[jsmitfl]

Hey Viking, you have to pull the bulkhead, if the water heater is to far from there then pull the heater, you stil have to be able to unhook the water lines from inside the bulkhead

[Mikendebbie]

I see what you mean. If the sketch below is correct - I think you will have to pull the water heater out. Even if it is open behind the wet bay - that is quite a long reach over the furnace. I vote "pull it out".

[rohrmann]

If you haven't removed the plastic panel that covers the back of the convenience center, that would be the first step. If you just can't reach the check valve, see if you can access the PEX line that is connected to that check valve. If you can, you might just cut in a Sharkbite check valve in the PEX line, and that will do what the check valve on the back of the WATER HEATER is supposed to do.

https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-U20...s%2C397&sr=8-3

[Carl n Susan]

I agree that removing the panel around the convenience center may make it clear on how to approach the check valve. Another option is to remove, what I think is, the vacuum just to the right of the power panel box. There should be four screws and it comes out. A slightly more extreme measure is to pull the power panel box out. It too is held in with just a few screws and there is plenty of slack cable to allow it to be moved out of the way.

It would also be a good time check the tightness of all the power connections in that panel.

[Kfinnert]

Good morning -

I just replaced my hot water high pressure valve, it was leaking. It was a straightforward process and did not involve removing the water tank. If I misunderstand the issue, then ignore my response!

Access the valve from the outside access panel. Next to the valve is a heat deflector plate that is held in place by 6 screws. Remove the screws and the plate. You now have access to the valve.

I used a short-handled pipe wrench to grip the valve and remove it. The end of the pipe wrench will be angled out from the valve, but patience and a bit of muscle and it should break free. Find your replacement*, and with plumber's tape wrapped on the valve, replace it.

Once you remove your valve you will notice a white sensor. On my unit, that *sensor was shorter than those in home hot water heaters - I hoped to find the valve at my local hardware store. Nonetheless, I found the replacement at a Blue Compass RV store.

[ReneT]

Your valve leaking possibly could have been repaired.
1st) it could have been just dirty internals. Sometimes while the system is pressurized, just pop the valve handle 2 or 3 times quickly. That may flush out the internals.
2nd) you may have lost the air head. When first filling the system, there is a space at the top of the heater that doesn’t fill with water. It’s designed that way so that once the water heats up, it expands. This air space gives a place for the expanded water to go. If there is no air head the water still expands but it opens up the valve and it will drip. The way to get it reestablished, shut the water off to the rv. Then being careful because the water may still be hot, open the drain valve and drain out a quart or so of water then put the plug back in and turn the pressure back on. Check for leaks now.

[rohrmann]

Originally Posted by Kfinnert

Good morning -

I just replaced my hot water high pressure valve, it was leaking. It was a straightforward process and did not involve removing the water tank. If I misunderstand the issue, then ignore my response!

Access the valve from the outside access panel. Next to the valve is a heat deflector plate that is held in place by 6 screws. Remove the screws and the plate. You now have access to the valve.

I used a short-handled pipe wrench to grip the valve and remove it. The end of the pipe wrench will be angled out from the valve, but patience and a bit of muscle and it should break free. Find your replacement*, and with plumber's tape wrapped on the valve, replace it.

Once you remove your valve you will notice a white sensor. On my unit, that *sensor was shorter than those in home hot water heaters - I hoped to find the valve at my local hardware store. Nonetheless, I found the replacement at a Blue Compass RV store.

Check valve and T&P valve: