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10-26-2021, 05:02 PM
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: St Peters
Posts: 38
M.O.C. #17978
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Bed slide motor mount failure
Hi,
The bedroom slide on my 3610 has failed. Specifically the motor mount has failed. The mount appears to be a thin sheet of metal behind wall covering with the mount holes threaded to receive the mount bolts for the motor. All of the holes have become enlarged to the point they are too big of the mount bolts. I can see no way of accessing this panel to replace or even put nuts for the mount bolts to secure to.
Anyone with any information on this type of problem would be appreciated.
Thanks!!
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10-26-2021, 05:47 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Granger TX
Posts: 2,593
M.O.C. #21044
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Add the year model of your unit so the smart folks here can offer better help.
__________________
MikenDebbie Aggie ‘77 in the sticks near Austin TX
2019 Chevy 3500 High Country DRW
2018 Montana 3921FB
Aussie Gus + Texas Heeler Jimmy
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10-26-2021, 06:40 PM
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#3
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Established Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: St Peters
Posts: 38
M.O.C. #17978
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Bed slide motor mount failure
The unit is a 2015 3610RL. I had the bed slide motor replaced about 2 years ago. The shop did not mention any kind of mounting issue for the new motor. There is no obvious way to get behind the mount to put an additional mount plate or even capture nuts. Its always something.
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10-26-2021, 07:44 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Carmichael - CA
Posts: 7,685
M.O.C. #4831
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A picture would help but have you considered removing the molding around the slide? I am assuming the motor is mounted on the inside of the exterior wall. With the molding out of the way you should be able to access the motor and the mount.
__________________
Carl (n Susan)
There is more to life than fuel mileage.
2012 Montana 3700RL Big Sky Package towed by a 2015 Ford F350 6.7L PSD 4WD CC LWB
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10-27-2021, 06:47 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Alton
Posts: 2,892
M.O.C. #24086
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There are many videos on YouTube showing
"Changing a Schwintek slide motor"
Hope this helps.
Also for the stripped threads. Maybe try using heli coils?
Available at auto parts stores. Again there are YouTube videos demonstrating how they work.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/t...s/ec39e02ab378
__________________
Daryl and Marianne,
2019 3130re 20th Anniversary Edition
2016 F350 Lariat
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10-27-2021, 07:18 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Carson City
Posts: 2,017
M.O.C. #21963
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Is this what the motor and mount looks like? Not upside down of course.
__________________
2016 3160, Legacy, Sailuns, Splendide 2100 xc vented, 1 1/2" axle lift blocks, disk brakes. 2014 Ram 3500 SRW SWB 4X4 6.7 Aisin Mega Cab, EBC slotted disks and brakes, Titan fuel tank.
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10-27-2021, 07:34 AM
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#7
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Established Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: St Peters
Posts: 38
M.O.C. #17978
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There is no molding. The motor is mounted directly to the wall panel which has a thin metal backing with threaded (now stripped) holes for the motor to mount to. I have no idea of how to remove the entire wall panel.
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10-27-2021, 07:38 AM
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#8
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Established Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: St Peters
Posts: 38
M.O.C. #17978
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Yes that is what the motor looks like. As you can see the motor is mounted directly to the wall. There is no "mount" that I can see. The wall panel has a thin metal ( 1/8 inch maybe) backing where the motor mount holes are (were) threaded. Now the holes are too big to act as "backing nuts" for the motor mount screws. Any ideas are appreciated.
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10-27-2021, 08:05 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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The idea is to not try to do anything with the present mounting holes. If the motor can be shifted for new mounting location and adjustments done to make it workable, do that. You can also bond a metal plate to the existing wall area and mount motor to it once bonding is cured. John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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10-27-2021, 08:22 AM
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#10
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Established Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: St Peters
Posts: 38
M.O.C. #17978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcurtis934
The idea is to not try to do anything with the present mounting holes. If the motor can be shifted for new mounting location and adjustments done to make it workable, do that. You can also bond a metal plate to the existing wall area and mount motor to it once bonding is cured. John
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Thanks. I have never adjusted one of these before so I do not know if that would work. But this is the best idea so far. Bonding the new plate is also a good idea. I will try moving the unit first.
Thanks Again!
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10-27-2021, 10:16 AM
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#11
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Established Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: St Peters
Posts: 38
M.O.C. #17978
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Motor Mount Failure
This is what it looks like.[ATTACH]10457[[ATTACH]
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10-27-2021, 10:50 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: SWFL
Posts: 965
M.O.C. #17801
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I agree about bonding a larger plate to the wall. You'll have to find an adhesive that will bond to metal and the vinyl material. I'd use 1/8" aluminum. If you use bolts with nuts, you'll have to affix the motor to the plate first because you won't have access to the nuts. In the alternative, you could weld threaded rod to the plate and put the nuts on from outside. Another alternative is to drill the plate for screws, not too long because you don't want to go thru the wall.
__________________
2016 Montana 3711FL
2005 Ford F350, 6.0 diesel, short bed
Demco Hitchiker Auto Slide hitch
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10-27-2021, 11:53 AM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Alton
Posts: 2,892
M.O.C. #24086
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When I made my tilt mount solar panel brackets, I used jack nuts and SS knerl knobs to mount the solar panels so they are removable and can tilt.
Hillman 59126 Short Jack Nuts (1/4"-20) - 15 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NUFMIIO...PS78ZFS6BKEYBJ
Like others have mentioned, mount a thin strip of metal to the wall.
First place the motor on the metal strip (centered). Mark the motor mount holes on the metal. Remove the motor and drill out the metal strip to install the jack nuts and counter sunk wall mounting screws. Install the jack nuts and motor to verify good fit. Make sure you tighten the jack nuts down all the way so they compress around the hole and fully grip the metal strip.
Remove the motor.
Use numerous short counter sunk screws to mount the metal to the wall. You will have to make holes big enough for the jack nuts to recess into the wall.
Mount the motor.
__________________
Daryl and Marianne,
2019 3130re 20th Anniversary Edition
2016 F350 Lariat
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10-27-2021, 03:22 PM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: SWFL
Posts: 965
M.O.C. #17801
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Daryles makes an excellent suggestion with the jacknuts. I've not seen those before, and better than welding anything.
__________________
2016 Montana 3711FL
2005 Ford F350, 6.0 diesel, short bed
Demco Hitchiker Auto Slide hitch
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10-27-2021, 08:04 PM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Carson City
Posts: 2,017
M.O.C. #21963
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I would first determine what the screws were screwing into. Were they wood screws or sheetmetal screws? Then remove the motor from the bracket. Reattach the bracket the best you can with the existing screws. If they get tight, good. If not, drill holes in the bracket in between the existing holes and add more like screws.
__________________
2016 3160, Legacy, Sailuns, Splendide 2100 xc vented, 1 1/2" axle lift blocks, disk brakes. 2014 Ram 3500 SRW SWB 4X4 6.7 Aisin Mega Cab, EBC slotted disks and brakes, Titan fuel tank.
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10-27-2021, 09:11 PM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: POINTBLANK
Posts: 1,916
M.O.C. #19944
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same idea but I used: NUTSERT (available on AMAZON) I had slide pulleys pull off the wall. Drilled out he holes tp take nutsert but had to scrape paneling off the wall and then put steel plates behind pulleys. I made the plates longer and used original fasteners to hold them. I felt the nutsert would hold longer than having the rubber in the hole.
__________________
RAM 22' DRW 3500 Crew LB 40 gal reserve tank / RETRAX Bed Cover / 2020 373RD HC / IS / MOPEKA Tank Monitor / Furrion Side&Rear Cameras
Slide Toppers / EMS-HW50C / Sailun 85's
3rd AC / Dometic 320
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10-28-2021, 09:38 AM
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#17
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Winter Haven
Posts: 86
M.O.C. #23309
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use short hollow wall anchors. once set you can use shorter machine screws to mount motor.
__________________
2019 3121RL
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10-28-2021, 09:11 PM
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#18
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: POINTBLANK
Posts: 1,916
M.O.C. #19944
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I tried shallow wall anchors on closet track ... failed. That doesn't have near the load a slide motor. IMHO
__________________
RAM 22' DRW 3500 Crew LB 40 gal reserve tank / RETRAX Bed Cover / 2020 373RD HC / IS / MOPEKA Tank Monitor / Furrion Side&Rear Cameras
Slide Toppers / EMS-HW50C / Sailun 85's
3rd AC / Dometic 320
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10-31-2021, 01:53 PM
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#19
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Orlando
Posts: 338
M.O.C. #22589
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Am I missing something here? I would use a larger sheet metal screw or tap the hole for a larger machine screw.
__________________
2020 Montana 3813ms legacy w/Paint
2017 Ram 3500 4X4 DRW Aisin Curt Q-25
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10-31-2021, 04:27 PM
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#20
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Alton
Posts: 2,892
M.O.C. #24086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob and Jeannette
Am I missing something here? I would use a larger sheet metal screw or tap the hole for a larger machine screw.
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The walls are only 1/4" luan. Keystone should have reinforced the wall here where the motor mounts are.
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