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Old 06-18-2019, 04:33 PM   #1
shooter
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Strange Water Heater Problem

HELP !!!
The water on my Montana 5th Wheel has me baffled. First, I had almost no flow from any of the hot outlets. Sink, Shower, bathroom sink. That problem was corrected. A few weeks later, no hot water. I was running on electric. I replaced the heating element. Bleed the air out of tank, turn on the electric switch, wait a couple of hours and I have hot water. BUT, it only lasts a short while. I can wash my hands and the water gets cold before my hands are rinsed. I turned off the electric switch and turned on the propane. The water heater lit, stayed on 40 minutes, washed my hands with the same result. Cold water before my hands were rinsed.
Am I not getting all the air out of the tank ? Is the thermostat bad as in kicking off before all the water is heated ? Or, is the check valve on the water heater bad and not letting the water fill up ?
Thanks for any and all help.
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Old 06-18-2019, 06:11 PM   #2
speedster100
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Sounds like one of your check valves is not holding on the tank and allowing the cold water to infiltrate the hot line through it.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:06 PM   #3
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So, you are saying there is more than one check valve ?
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:16 PM   #4
speedster100
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two on the hot water tank, one on the upper line and one on the lower line... They are there for winterizing through the onboard system.
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:00 AM   #5
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OK, thanks.
I downloaded the water heater manual so I'll find them there.
It may be a couple of weeks before I get back to the lake due
to work.
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Old 06-20-2019, 11:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedster100 View Post
two on the hot water tank, one on the upper line and one on the lower line... They are there for winterizing through the onboard system.

The hot water outlet is the only one with a check valve. The hot water heater bypass valve in the convenience center turns off water to the water heater tank, and the hot outlet check valve keeps water from backflowing into the tank when you winterize the rig.
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Old 08-23-2019, 03:50 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the info so far.
I'm finally back at the lake for a couple of days.
So, is the hot water outlet the line at the top or
bottom of the water heater ?
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Old 08-23-2019, 04:18 PM   #8
jcurtis934
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Top outlet of tank
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Old 08-23-2019, 06:46 PM   #9
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Thanks.
After spending time replacing the heating element and checking the check valve.
Still no hot water. My neighbor came over with a test meter. No power to the heating element. The reset button wouldn't move to reset. After removing the cover, there was a plastic piece blocking the reset button. After moving the plastic "barrel looking piece", I was able to reset. I heard the click. Just maybe that solved the problem.
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:16 PM   #10
Carl n Susan
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That plastic piece is there to aid in resetting the thermostat through the rubber cover. It is strange that you had to remove it to reset.
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:46 PM   #11
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I had a little hot water then cold.

That plastic piece was turned at an angle not allowing
the button to reset. Not sure why.
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Old 08-23-2019, 11:08 PM   #12
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The year and model of the Montana that has the problem with the thermostat would be nice to know. Our original water heater had a problem similar to this early on, but out of warranty. I finally discovered the 120 volt thermostat had failed, and I found a new one and was back in business. The old thermostat had a red insulated barrel that was the button under the rubber disc. The replacement thermostat, a Suburban part, had a gray barrel, which I thought was strange. I later found out that the thermostats are made for Suburban, and the ones with the red button were defective and failed quite often, and they were made by a company that does not make them for Suburban any more.
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:41 AM   #13
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The year is 2003. The model is 3255 RL .
The "barrel color is an off white color
but it could have been gray at one time.
Definitely not red.
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Old 08-24-2019, 01:10 PM   #14
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Ok. I removed the heating element, Check valve and mini elec switch.
When I drained the water tank, it was full of hot water ???? I took the parts to a couple of places in town and they didn't have any of them.
Does anyone know where to buy a check valve ? Part # ?
Looks like I may have to order online.
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Old 08-24-2019, 01:43 PM   #15
Our3820FK
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Does it do the same thing either using your onboard tank and pump or the hose from the main line? Is there a chance that the water heater bypass is open along with the 2 other valves in and out of the heater, cold in hot out?
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Old 08-24-2019, 06:29 PM   #16
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This is a link to a check valve that will work. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Wa...23415LFVP.html


If you want to replace the thermostat/Hi-limit switch on the 120 volt side, this is the Suburban part number: 232306
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Old 08-24-2019, 07:34 PM   #17
shooter
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Originally Posted by Our3820FK View Post
Does it do the same thing either using your onboard tank and pump or the hose from the main line? Is there a chance that the water heater bypass is open along with the 2 other valves in and out of the heater, cold in hot out?

Not exactly sure. I cleaned the check valve as best I could. The elec switch was bad so I used a jumper wire to by pass the switch........ for now.
I now have hot water.
Thanks everyone !!!
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Old 08-24-2019, 07:37 PM   #18
shooter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
This is a link to a check valve that will work. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Wa...23415LFVP.html


If you want to replace the thermostat/Hi-limit switch on the 120 volt side, this is the Suburban part number: 232306


That's the info I needed.
Thank you. Now I can fix it right.
Again, Thanks.
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