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Old 08-07-2019, 07:06 AM   #1
margerush
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water leak on pass thru door

Rain is getting in the drivers side pass thru door of our '16 Monty 3160RL. It's in storage (in our back yard) so there's no water in the tank, sink or toilet. I put Silicone around outside metal strip of the door and silicon on the top of the black door hinge. It appears the door is pressing against the inside gasket correctly. The passenger side doesn't leak and I've compared the looks of the gaskets and they look the same. Has anyone experienced a leak in their pass thru doors?
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:17 AM   #2
1retired06
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Yes. Sloppy sealing. Replaced with better quality rubber seals, and problem gone. Did it within the first 30 days of ownership. Like you, it was just one door. Seals looked OK, until the hose test.
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:25 AM   #3
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did you order the seal from Keystone? How difficult is it to replace the seal at the latches on the bottom of the door?
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:20 AM   #4
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Our 3160 did that when we got it. I chased it for a month. I ultimately found that the door was filling up with water until it ran out of the latch cutout inside. I sealed the frame around the door itself (not the part on the trailer wall) but the door. No more leak.



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Old 08-07-2019, 10:29 AM   #5
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Mark A interesting. Never thought about the latches. I'll bet that's where it's leaking. I'll put a bead of Silicone around the latches. Thank you.
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:31 AM   #6
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Don't forget the frame on the door itself, it's not sealed at all.
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:44 AM   #7
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Here is what I used and thus far no leaks. We have had several heavy blowing rains since installed. Recommended by our RV dealer's tech. Easy to apply and just clean off the factory seal. This is not used on the door but on the frame metal lip that "seals" the door. Just slips on and needs no adhesive. Only problem is you have to purchase 50'. Make sure you get the 1/2 inch! Doors are hard to close without a extra push at first but soon close easier. Just make sure when you close you hear the latch lock. This is just my opinion and experience!

https://www.rvautoparts.com/G7011-S-...saAogWEALw_wcB
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:47 PM   #8
1retired06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by margerush View Post
did you order the seal from Keystone? How difficult is it to replace the seal at the latches on the bottom of the door?
Generally you cannot get parts directly from Keystone. Even if you could, why. My preference is to replace with better quality than OEM whenever possible. Home Depot was my source, multiple options available. Easy install. Had to fabricate new bracing for the struts as well, immediately began separating from the doors.
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Old 08-08-2019, 05:33 PM   #9
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Navybanker. Did you remove oem seal.
Retired. I’ll look at Home Depot for .8” u channel. Just hope I don’t have trouble around the latched
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Old 08-08-2019, 06:07 PM   #10
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Yes, removed the OEM seal but just peeled it off. Didn't remove the glue since the new seal doesn't need it. As far as the latches, didn't place the new seal over them just cut new stuff and left the oem there. Now, the tech at the dealership said don't use anything with the bulb larger than 1/2 inch. Tech gave me the part no. from the catalog they use. They tried seals with larger bulbs and it didn't work since the door would not close tightly. Can't guarantee this fix but so far so good! I battled this type leak on my 3400 and ended up with a soft floor!
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Old 08-09-2019, 04:47 AM   #11
margerush
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Navybanker. Thank you for all the information. I squeezed the pass thru door with my fingers and felt a little dampness. I’m going to silicone the outside of both doors then add this u channel seal
Thanks
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Old 08-09-2019, 10:04 AM   #12
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Margerush you shouldn’t have to silicone the outside of your door. Frame yes door no. The door should have weep holes in the bottom of the door that lets the water out. It runs onto the door frame and on out.
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Old 08-09-2019, 10:08 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jsmitfl View Post
Margerush you shouldn’t have to silicone the outside of your door. Frame yes door no. The door should have weep holes in the bottom of the door that lets the water out. It runs onto the door frame and on out.

That is true, there are weep holes, but the capillary action of the door frame is sucking more water than the weepers can pass. I took my time with a high quality silicone and no more leak, and you can't see the silicone.



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Old 08-09-2019, 12:21 PM   #14
MARK A
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Originally Posted by jsmitfl View Post
Margerush you shouldn’t have to silicone the outside of your door. Frame yes door no. The door should have weep holes in the bottom of the door that lets the water out. It runs onto the door frame and on out.

That is true, there are weep holes, but the capillary action of the door frame is sucking more water than the weepers can pass. I took my time with a high quality silicone and no more leak, and you can't see the silicone.



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Old 08-10-2019, 05:11 PM   #15
margerush
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well I've sealed the outside frames, the door frames (weep holes didn't get any silicone) &
latches. Still have a water leak on drivers side. I guess I'll be installing the U-seal. Only problem is I think they're out of the G-7011 Navybanker recommended. rvautoparts keeps bringing up G7038-50. I don't know how thick this new part number is. Thank you everybody for trying to help me out.
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Old 08-14-2019, 02:38 PM   #16
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Margerush, I had the same issue on my 2016 3000RE, drivers side and all. Mine ended up being the door frame not being sealed. On the DS of the camper I could see a small silicone seal around the baggage door frame, but on the ODS there was none, I could run my fingernail into the gap between the door frame and the body of the camper. I thought.. maybe?.. so I sealed it and the leak I had put up with for months, was no more. Sadly it sounds like you've already sealed this.. but.. double check it, just a fingernail sized gap is all it takes. Good luck
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:40 PM   #17
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In a preventative measure I installed drip caps over all the baggage doors. They direct water from running down the face of the door from the top and direct it well beyond the sides. Just Google vintage drip caps. They are aluminum colored and come in many lengths. I mounted them with 3M double sided tape 4 years ago and they are still there.
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Old 08-15-2019, 01:46 PM   #18
margerush
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Neal. I thought I siliconed everything around the pass thru door and still had water coming in. I had my head inside, pondering what else, when a drip hit the back of my head. Lots of condensation/water on the upper gasket. I may try beejes idea, drip cap & 3M tape.
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