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Old 04-18-2017, 07:46 PM   #1
dfryk
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Level-up/slide issue

We have a 2015 3160 Montana. Close friends have a similar model (don't recall which).

Both of us are having the same problem: Unless we are hooked to park power, when we activate Level-up or run the slides in or out, they will move for a few seconds, then it appears a breaker kicks out and all electricity goes off for about 10 seconds. Things turn back on and another short movement occurs then stop.

I have contacted Lippert who try to say it is weak batteries but our batteries are standard heavy duty marine grade batteries - top end stuff. We have replaced a breaker but to no avail. I communicated with "Anthony" at Lippert who told us it may be faulty wiring, however, if the wiring was bad it wouldn't work on camp power.

I suspect it is a weak pump that is drawing too much power. Anthony has agreed that may be the issue Lippert has refused to replace it under warranty.

Anybody else having such an issue? I can't believe two of us, living within 30 miles of each other are the only ones with such a problem. ???
 
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:24 AM   #2
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Dfryk, I bet there are several rigs out there with this problem. Last fall we traded a 2012 Wildcat Sterling for our 2014 3582rl both suffer from the problem you described. I tried new batteries, that didn't work. The problem is worse in colder weather if anyone has the answer please post it. I am guessing the pump motor is to small or the oil is to thick.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:27 AM   #3
cw3jason
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change the 40amp self resetting thermal breaker to 80amps. it is the one with the red rubber boot directly connected to the battery with 4 gauge wire and then to the hydraulic pump. also a low battery will cause a higher amp draw and activate the thermal breaker.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:40 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by cw3jason View Post
change the 40amp self resetting thermal breaker to 80amps. it is the one with the red rubber boot directly connected to the battery with 4 gauge wire and then to the hydraulic pump. also a low battery will cause a higher amp draw and activate the thermal breaker.
Exactly correct.. Smart to do. Common problem. Many posts on this subject re Search. I replaced ours on last two units. Weak batteries contribute, but that 40amp breaker is a weak link.
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:15 AM   #5
jlb27537
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My '12 originally had a single 40A breaker going to the pump ckt. I bought a second 40A breaker and connected them in parallel. No issues since.

On my '12 there were originally 2-40A breakers. One went to the house ckts, one went to the pump ckt. Very common issue back then. A $10 fix.

The breaker I refer to is a OEM installed part of the system. Thus Lippert does not know that Keystone/Montana installed a breaker that is too small for their pump current draw.

The reason it works when plugged in is simple. Ohm's Law. As battery voltage drops, current increases for same work performed. Your 100A converter is keeping the voltage up, thus keeping current down, thus the breaker does not trip while plugged in.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:04 AM   #6
jcurtis934
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You can do a simple test to eliminate the breaker as the culprit...just jumper across it so that power always is there for the motor and then move a slide. My bet is the cheap automotive bimetallic breaker is the issue. If I can buy one from auto zone for 4 bucks, what do you think keystone pays for this cheap device?
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Old 04-19-2017, 10:50 AM   #7
mjammersc
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Here is the Lippert Information Bulletin on the issue that talks about replacing the breaker


https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...ippert0058.pdf
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Old 04-19-2017, 10:56 AM   #8
Beau2010
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Had same problem on our '14. Eventually, the breaker quit working altogether (wouldn't reset) and was replaced. No more problem.
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:21 PM   #9
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We were told by an RV tech to never runs the jacks or slides unless you are either connected to shore power or you are connected to the truck WITH THE TRUCK RUNNING. Something about it being better for the motors. So we just always do that.
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Old 04-19-2017, 05:05 PM   #10
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Lone oak, we do the same thing. We have had our batteries go dead, so I trickle charge them, and do as much as possible with shore power connected. The only thing i might do, is that last minute front height adjustment before docking, so I don't forget to unplug the shore power before driving off!
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:37 PM   #11
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As a newbie, I also have this issue and have struggled with it. I'm taking my 305RL out of winter storage this weekend and would welcome any tips to ensure that the levelers retract
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:22 PM   #12
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As was said, just replace the 12 volt breaker going to the hydraulic pump with an 80 amp breaker, and the problem will be solved. We had more issues with the levelup jacks not retracting without stopping several times, especially when it was cold. Don't forget, you may not always be able to be connected to shore power when operating the hydraulics, and there is minimal current flow from your tow vehicle that will not make much difference with the high amp draw from the pump. It is also hard on the pump motor to stop and start multiple times when extending/retracting your slides and jacks. Much better to engage the motor and run continuously to complete the operation. This link goes to one that also comes with a cover. http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-AMP-12V-D...YAAOSwARZXkAM3
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:08 AM   #13
vipermanden
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Bob,

Do you think Keystone resolved this for our 2017 model year? Where do I look for this breaker modification. Thanks, Bob

Dennis
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:13 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by vipermanden View Post
Bob,

Do you think Keystone resolved this for our 2017 model year? Where do I look for this breaker modification. Thanks, Bob

Dennis

Don't count on it. this has been an issue for a long time, yet my 2015 came with the same 40amp breaker
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:15 AM   #15
Beau2010
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The breaker itself is behind the battery on the wall of the compartment. Has a red rubber shield on it with heavy wire running to battery. This is a pretty well known issue with these rigs and the tech who did ours said he has done many.
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Old 04-20-2017, 12:33 PM   #16
rohrmann
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Mine is located on the wall behind the batteries. I just replaced the breaker that feeds the hydraulic pump.
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:56 AM   #17
dfryk
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UPDATE: Yesterday I called Keystone Customer Service. I talked to a gal who seemed very knowledgeable about electronics. She claimed this is the first time she has heard of this problem. I asked her about the proposal to change out the breaker. Predictably she gave me an emphatic "NO." "The system has been engineered for a 40 amp breaker and any change might create a dangerous situation," she said.

I fully understand that is just a CYA response but that is what she said. She told me to confirm the batteries were new and producing 12.6. If that didn't work, I should take it to a dealer and have them run a full system diagnostic to see what is causing the problem. In short, I learned nothing I didn't already know, thanks in part to this forum.

The cost of taking our Montana to a dealer to check on this is prohibitive. Our dealer is 80 miles away and the minimum charge is $135 for the first hour. Getting on the wait list for service at this time of the year is another issue. I am going to change out the breaker and take my chances.
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:33 AM   #18
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Need to sent the Lippert bulletin to Keystone
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:42 AM   #19
cw3jason
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Originally Posted by Twopetes View Post
Need to sent the Lippert bulletin to Keystone

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...heets/0058.pdf




dfryk, That woman you spoke too has no idea what she is talking about
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:57 AM   #20
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Calling Keystone about a Lippert system is worthless, as you found out. As long as the cable from the battery is, if I remember correctly, #4 strand copper, an 80 amp breaker will do no harm to anything. The Lippert document even says it assumes there is a 50 amp breaker to start with, so that is the first clue that Keystone did not install the recommended component in the system. If you replace the breaker yourself, disconnect the ground cable from the battery first, then you can safely replace the breaker. While in there, make sure you check all the connections that you can get to. I found a couple places that the connections were slightly loose, but that was not the problem with the breaker tripping. Since installing the 80 amp breaker, I have not had any issues with the system, and have never had to reset the breaker (I installed a manual reset style breaker). When you reconnect the ground after replacing the breaker, you will get a small spark when making that connection, but that is nothing to worry about.
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