Propane crossover switch question

[Gkerlin]

Woke up this morning with the inside temp 45 degrees (outside low 20's) and the furnace not working.

After some detective work, found that the propane crossover would not auto switch - nor would the lever provide propane from the far side tank. Switched full tank over to the other side of the coach (where the regulator and cross over lever is located and all worked fine.

Yes I made sure my tank valves were open.

I tried to do some searches on MOC and found a thread from 2010 that per Marshall - the manufacturer of the crossover assembly - that the small red regulator on the far side is not strong enough to get the auto crossover to work.

there was some info about a model number as well but that info was from 2010 so I'm wondering if its current. Since this was supposedly an issue in 2010 I'm surprised that it wasn't corrected by Keystone.

Also - when I flipped the lever to the full tank I still couldn't get propane to flow across to the main regulator so I had to swap tanks.

Anyone have any updated info on what I need to get to correct the problem?

A model number of the red regulator?? What is that little red regulator for anyway?

At least my furnace wasn't busted. It was cold here AGAIN in sunny warm Arizona.

[bigred715]

I have had the same problem on my 2010 Montana. Had to switch the tanks from one side to the other to get it to work. Switching the lever should do the job, but hasn't in the past. What is the problem?

[Gkerlin]

In my case - I checked and I have the 30psi red regulator. Some of the older units had an 18psi so I don't think that is my problem.

My old SOB didn't have a second regulator but otherwise had the same setup. I dont know why the red one is needed.

[Gkerlin]

If you do a search "propane regulator" theres a bunch of threads and one of the issues seems to be the red regulator. If you have an 18lb one they are undersized and cause the problem In my case - I checked and I have the 30psi red regulator- if merely has a silver sticker on it that says 30psi so I wonder if some guy in China or India just slapped a sticker on the old ones.

I'm reading a few more threads about it now. I think I might just go out and get a new red regulator and install it when I can.

[Jolu]

Greg I ended up switching out the change over regulator and have not had a problem for a couple of years. I replaced the original changeover valve with a different type that was available locally since I could not find the original valve as a replacement. I am not sure it matters as along as it is the two stage change over regulator. Joe

[Gkerlin]

Good Joe,

When we get to Q I'll show you my suspension and you can show me your propane.

[jimcol]

When I had the problem I just removed the red regulator. Never understood the need for it. Everything has worked fine since removing it. Jim

[Gkerlin]

Doing searches of the subject on here and RV Net is amazing all the problems... I mean - Isn't this really 19th century technology and we still can't get it reliable?

[Mudchief]

I also removed the red regulator and have never had another problem. The problem is you have a low pressure regulator driving a high pressure regulator.

[brenkco]

From what I was told, the purpose of the red regulator is to prevent the OPD on the propane tank from falsely shutting off the gas. The theory is that the pipe run from the far tank to the switchable regulator is enough of a distance to have the OPD "sense" a leak or open tank and shut off. (Thus all of the posts that suggest you open the valve very slowly to allow the gas to fill the pipe as not to have the OPD shut.) The red regulator installed next to the distant tank prevents the OPD from shutting off the supply.

I installed a tee before the red regulator with a shut off valve and a quick disconnect for my BBQ.

When the rig was new, I couldn't get gas from the far side of the switchable regulator. It turned out the problem was simply a litte excess pipe dope on one of the fittings. Once cleaned the problem was solved.

Ken

[Gkerlin]

I filled my empty tank - switched them back to where they were last night and then tried to run off of the far side (that would not work last night) and it worked fine.

Go figure.

[brenkco]

Greg,
It sure sounds like the OPD on the tank gave you the problem last night.

Ken

[Gkerlin]

that's what I'm thinking. Next time - if it happens I'll be sure to open slowly and listen.

[Recumbent]

We had the exact problem you have been having, and the door side small red regulator would work correctly part of the time. Over time we worked with it long enough to learn that is was not the technique that we used to open the tank, as in very slowly and/or slightly on then back to off, then slowly on again, but it was just not working. This OEM red regulator was made in India and stickered at 30psi. We bought and installed a new Marshall regulator and no more problems.

[Gkerlin]

Unfortunately it looks like Marshall is out of business.

I really don't know who makes good regulators and who makes junk.

For now I'll wait and see if I have further problems, if so - then I'll probably just replace both of them operating on the assumption that "If it's OEM - It's probably Junk"

[Larry-P]

I had the exact same problem that Gkerlin is having. From Illinois to Arizona I kept moving the right side tank to the left side whenever the left side tank was empty (always happened around 3am).

Before purchasing a new crossover valve, someone on this site suggested re-doing the opening procedure.

I shut off both tanks, dis-connected both tanks, re-connected both tanks, slowly turned on the tank with the crossover valve. On the opposite side I slowly openned the valve 1/4 turn, shut the valve off, waited 30 to 60 seconds and slowly opened the valve fully open.

I now follow this procedure when I refill a tank or first pulling into a site. Works everytime. Being retired I have lots of time to be patient with things.

Larry P

[Rondo]

Greg-- You have a 2012 unit and if I were you I'd be taking it to a dealer near you and have them check out the system. That's what the warranty is for. If it was just the valve in the tank and it could have been especially if you moved the tank some, it will reset itself and there should be no further problems. Just remember not to rock the tank and remember to always turn the tanks on very slowly.

[Gkerlin]

quote:Originally posted by Rondo

Greg-- You have a 2012 unit and if I were you I'd be taking it to a dealer near you and have them check out the system. That's what the warranty is for. If it was just the valve in the tank and it could have been especially if you moved the tank some, it will reset itself and there should be no further problems. Just remember not to rock the tank and remember to always turn the tanks on very slowly.

The one and only time I took it to a dealer for warranty they had it 2 months - accomplished nothing - and I would up paying for my own repairs... They couldn't even replace a torn basement compartment seal!

A small problem like this - I've learned that I better rely on myself if I want it fixed right. Let a dealer touch it and if afraid my stove will light everytime I flush the toilet.

Its working now. I think it was the flow restricter due to the empty line.

[2Wanderers]

Went through your same problem two weeks ago. Have really had problems with the changeover valve since we bought the rig 3 years ago. Two fixes that seem to have worked well is first: change out the changeover valve, second: is open up the valves on the tanks very slowly (or open, close and come back in ten minutes and reopen, all very slowly). Lots of luck with a fix.

[PackerFan]

We also have the 30 psi red regulator and so far no problems. I just make sure I open each tank slowly.