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Old 06-05-2012, 05:51 AM   #21
DonandJudy_12
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I use 3/4" marine grade plywood cut in various lengths for my "legos"- They last forever and are lighter in weight than solid wood blocks- I have a milk carton [ from a closed creamery ] to hold the singles in one spot- Painted them all white [ helps parking after dark ]- Works for us- JMHO- Don
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:21 AM   #22
Chasnracin
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There is an app for that? What is it called?

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DQDick

For me the same is true on the front. I drop the stabilizers down equally and then add blocks as needed. Right now I have one block under the passenger's side and two under the driver's side, one block each under each tire on the passengers side and one on the passengers side of the rear and two on the rear drivers side. Us my IPad and an app to decide based on keeping the kitchen floor level. The app tells me where to raise and how many inches.
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:14 AM   #23
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It's called RV companion. I have the free version and it includes the leveler. The paid version has more stuff, but at this point I'm using other apps for that stuff. I use it on my iPad and can use it on my iPhone, but I believe an android version is probably out there. Once you download it, hit the more button and the leveler and flashlight and other stuff like that is right there.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:49 PM   #24
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Awesome. Thanks!
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:45 PM   #25
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Here is what I did.



I used a 2 x 12 on the top, with 2 x 10 on the side, and 2 x 8 under the 2 x 12. Leaves about 1/2" lip around the 2 x 12 so you don't have to worry about the jack slipping off the block.

Doesn't weigh that much since it is not a solid block of wood. Since I have BigFoot I don't have to worry about one leg long than the other. Just throw one down, under each foot (4 or them), and hit level button. Keeps the feet out of the mud too.



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Old 06-06-2012, 01:58 AM   #26
kylec2
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I use Lynx Levelers for the jacks and under the tires (to level side to side). They weigh practically nothing and the set I have is over 20 years old. I do not care for the yellow ones from Camping World as they seem to only last a year or two.

I agree with what others have mentioned, regardless of what you use be careful not to stack too high and risk your rig falling off the blocks. A close friend did this last year and repairs were near $1000 to replace one of the landing legs that bent.
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Old 06-06-2012, 02:12 AM   #27
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I use two 4x4x 8ft I lay them side by side then level them by using shims if needed now I know I am level side by side.

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Old 06-09-2012, 09:29 AM   #28
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I am amazed at all you folks that use large blocks under your landing legs, even after seeing a talking to folks that have dropped or pushed coach off these large blocks and damaged the truck and or landing legs!
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:34 AM   #29
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It may never happen, but if it does it's a problem.
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:59 PM   #30
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Ditto on the wheel chocks. Even on level ground, the chocks keep the Monty from moving back, while pinning up in an awkward situation, or forward so you can do a pull test before departure. The landing gear and stabilizers are relatively weak and bend (strain) easily (especially the stabilizers) when pressure (stress) is applied in any direction but straight up-and-down. Capturing the legs with a recessed block top transfers the stress that might come from an up/downhill site directly to the legs. Granted, by keeping the legs short, the stress is reduced, so there is merit to tall blocks. Looking at the Level-Up, the same would be true except that, once the weight is off the tires, there are no sideways or front/rear forces except wind.
We do wheel chocks as a matter of habit. I think good habits will save my bacon better than cleverness, which seems to go missing when I need it most. We use the orange Lynx (lego) blocks, too, but I'm looking for an alternative because a) the trailer is too heavy for them, so they get distorted, and b) they're exactly as high as the pinhole spacing in the legs, so I can't get in-between distances.
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Old 06-17-2012, 03:41 PM   #31
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Found this on SOF:

#1

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We have this favorite Forest Service campground nearby that we like to go to and yesterday my wife was talking with the volunteer host about an accident that happened this past weekend with one of the RV'rs. It seems this guy had his 'large' 5th wheel set up on a double site because that was the only one available and when a single site opened up he decided to change sites.

After he moved the trailer over to the other site and was getting ready to set it up again, he failed to chock his trailer wheels and when he pulled the hitch slide bar to disconnect, the trailer rolled back off the blocks that were under the landing gear and fell down on the bedrails. He had one of his hands resting on the bed rail while pulling the slide bar handle and the trailer came down on his hand smashing it. Then, as the trailer rolled back with his hand smashed between it and the truck, it pulled most of the flesh and skin off of his hand because it was wedged in between. He was freed when the trailer rolled back farther, thus freeing his hand.

His wife quickly wrapped his hand in a towel and rushed him to the emergency room. Not sure what the long term prognosis is for his hand is but on the short term it's in bad shape. Several neighboring campers finished setting his rig up while they were at the hospital.

Not to be preaching to the choir, but always chock the tires... even on flat level ground. Plus, I never put my landing gear up on anything that's taller than the distance between my bedrails and the trailer.... learned that lesson the hard way quite a few years ago.
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:37 PM   #32
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I have some locally made micro laminated boards-they have ropes (handles)and are only 3/4 inches thick.I have had then for also twenty years,work great!
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:24 AM   #33
PatnRich
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I use a double layer of 3/4 pt plywood 12x12 with rope handles for the landing gear.
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:32 AM   #34
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I have some scrap pieces of 2x6
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