|
|
08-07-2009, 03:37 PM
|
#1
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tonawanda
Posts: 551
M.O.C. #3662
|
Hot water heater question
My hot water doesn't seem to be as hot as it use to be on propane,can I use electric with the propane to supplement the heater.It gets hotter with electric but I pay for the electric on a meter.
|
|
|
08-08-2009, 05:01 AM
|
#2
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: _
Posts: 5,238
M.O.C. #6337
|
You can turn on both at the same time. You could turn the electric on when you need a boost, then turn it off after.
|
|
|
08-08-2009, 09:39 AM
|
#3
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Texas City
Posts: 5,736
M.O.C. #7673
|
When plugged into the receptacle I always use electric. If I need a quick boost for two back to back showers or lots of dish washing, I kick the propane on for assistance and return to just electric when finished with needs.
|
|
|
08-09-2009, 03:14 AM
|
#4
|
Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 279
M.O.C. #8231
|
Garyka,
Not sure what you mean about propane not as hot as before. Was there a big difference in temp. and was your location the same? Example; The water heater with 50 degree incoming water will take longer to heat than lets say 60 degree inlet tempt., if this is the case you prob. have nothing wrong w/ the propane side just need a little boost( as Mrs Countryguy suggest) from your electric element to get you to your desired temp quicker. I can't imagine using the electric element for showers and dishes could cause a major increase on your bill, just remember to close the breaker when electric not needed. Kinda makes you wonder why a tstat has not been developed to use propane as primary and only use electric during high demand or maybe it works that way anyway, never checked. Steve
|
|
|
08-09-2009, 03:28 AM
|
#5
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tonawanda
Posts: 551
M.O.C. #3662
|
Previously the water was scalding hot,now it's hot and I don't have as much time in the shower as before with propane.The water coming in is the same if not warmer due to the time of the year.
|
|
|
08-09-2009, 04:02 AM
|
#6
|
Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 279
M.O.C. #8231
|
Calcium/minerial build up can cause a slow recovery as well causing the propane to heat tank and calcium before heat transfers to water, you might need to give the tank a good cleaning if that has not been done over the winter. I am also asuming you have a good flame at the burner(ie dirt dobbers cloging the orfice or the burner itself). Steve
|
|
|
08-09-2009, 06:03 PM
|
#7
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Oak Harbor
Posts: 1,529
M.O.C. #2471
|
I was thinking the same thing as Steve....a draining and good clean out/rinsing may be in order
Jack
__________________
Previous:2004 Mountaineer 325FKBS,2010 Montana 3455SA Now:2018 Bighorn 3575EL (SOB's ) Res. Fridge,W/D,Disc Brakes,Water Softener,Dish Tailgater PRO,LioN Batts, several mods.
2021 RAM 3500 Laramie.... "LOADED", 4x4, SB H.O. 6.7L, Aisin Trans, PullRite Super Glide Hitch, 52 Gallon Titan Fuel Tank.
|
|
|
08-10-2009, 01:41 AM
|
#8
|
Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Manakin-Sabot
Posts: 371
M.O.C. #5540
|
Just how does one "clean" the hot water tank?
|
|
|
08-10-2009, 02:27 AM
|
#9
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
|
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by gojodo
Just how does one "clean" the hot water tank?
|
There is a tool made and sold by CW that you can put on the end of your water hose to spray inside the water heater to remove all the debris. First, remove the anode rod but be careful not to get burned by the hot water. If you don't have the special tool for the end of the hose, you can merely spray water inside the water heater through the hole where the anode fits. You'll be surprised at the amount of debris that comes out.
Orv
|
|
|
08-10-2009, 04:52 AM
|
#10
|
Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 279
M.O.C. #8231
|
|
|
|
08-10-2009, 06:13 AM
|
#11
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
|
|
|
|
08-10-2009, 10:05 AM
|
#12
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
|
I have no idea why this happens but on our 2003 Montana the propane heated the water better than electric. In our 2007 Montana it's the opposite. Electricity gets water much hotter. Don't they use the same thermostat?
|
|
|
08-11-2009, 12:51 AM
|
#13
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
|
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle
I have no idea why this happens but on our 2003 Montana the propane heated the water better than electric. In our 2007 Montana it's the opposite. Electricity gets water much hotter. Don't they use the same thermostat?
|
I was of the opinion that they both used the same thermostat but I'm in agreement with you. It seems that the water is hotter with one source than the other. In our case it's the propane heat that seems to get the water hotter.
Orv
|
|
|
08-13-2009, 06:48 AM
|
#14
|
Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St. Petersburg
Posts: 343
M.O.C. #4828
|
I do not know about the temp control in our 2980, however in our 2955 there was a valve (this controled the amount of hot water coming thru the line) in the plastic line coming out of the water heater. Just another thought. Have a Good Day
|
|
|
08-17-2009, 07:04 PM
|
#15
|
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Anchorage
Posts: 8
M.O.C. #9486
|
I guess I'll chime in here. Gotta love the search function. From what I gather it's a real pain in the butt to reach the bypass switch and seeing how the walk through we got was less than spectacular. Is it possible for someone to post a pic for me PRETTY PLEASE. This is a new revelation for us and would be awesome. I haven't ran out of hot water yet and don't want to. I think the only thing to remember is to switch it off if you don't have any water in the tank right? Sorry if I hijacked the thread but I would really like to know. Thanks for the Info everyone!!!!
|
|
|
08-17-2009, 08:41 PM
|
#16
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 5,316
M.O.C. #15
|
BombGuy,
It is correct that you do not want the electric element ON when there is no water in the tank.
HamRad
|
|
|
08-18-2009, 02:12 AM
|
#17
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
|
[quote]quote: Originally posted by ols1932
Quote:
Originally posted by sreigle
I have no idea why this happens but on our 2003 Montana the propane heated the water better than electric. In our 2007 Montana it's the opposite. Electricity gets water much hotter. Don't they use the same thermostat?
|
I was of the opinion that they both used the same thermostat but I'm in agreement with you. It seems that the water is hotter with one source than the other. In our case it's the propane heat that seems to get the water hotter.
Orv/quote]
I'm thinking they use separate thermostats for electric and propane. Also, seems there are two temperature thermostats available. http://www.marksrv.com/swwaterheater.htm Our water has always been hotter with gas, so I have attributed it to possibly a 140* gas thermostat, while the electric may be the 130* one.
|
|
|
08-22-2009, 12:14 PM
|
#18
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
|
Thanks, Will.
BombGuy, as HamRad said, don't leave the switch on with no water in the tank. Turn it off before draining the tank. It only takes a few seconds without water on the element to burn it out. It's replaceable and not real expensive but...
|
|
|
08-23-2009, 11:33 PM
|
#19
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: South Shore
Posts: 6,009
M.O.C. #7110
|
For the original poster, could it be possible that your thermostat has gotten moved or accidentally bumped and turned down. That is something I rarely look at and I know it could easily be forgotten or overlooked.
I also keep the anode rod changed on a yearly basis. It’s amazing just how much it will deteriorate in one season of camping. I remove it in the fall after we are through for the year and then I drain the water tank. I also take a small shop vac after draining and I have a piece of clear tubing that I rig to the shop vac which I use to help remove any debris that may be in there. I haven’t seen the flush tool that Steve talked about but that looks like it might be a nice tool to help with the cleaning of the tank.
Let us know if you get it fixed and find a solution for the problem.
__________________
2011 GMC 4X4 dually CC, 6.6 Duramax with Allison Transmission. Formally 2001 Montana,2007 3400RL Montana, presently 2018 3401RS Alpine.
|
|
|
08-24-2009, 06:39 AM
|
#20
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
|
I made my own flush tool with small diameter PVC, a cap small enough to fit in and out of the anode hole, a PVC adapter for a garden hose connector, and a Y water faucet adapter with shutoffs so I could control the flow and shut it off. I drilled two small holes (1/8 in) in the end of the PVC near the cap at 90 degree angles to each other. Works great
The two jets of water do a good job of "sweeping" the crud back out towards the hole.
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|