Wheel Torque

[Bighorn]

We received a package from our dealer containing a service bulletin, instruction letter and a DVD about maintaining proper lug nut torque. It state we are to check lug nut torque before and after every trip (110 to 120 ft lb). The letter suggests we bring our rig to the dealer if we are unable to perform the task on our own. You need at least a 30” torque wrench to check 120 ft lb easily. I check ours and they were OK after 4 short trips.
Is this a standard notification or has there been a problem with wheels falling off? Or is this a manufactures cover his a$$ letter due to owners ignorance when it comes to Knowledge concerning wheel torque? This will be a major chore if you really have to do it before and after each trip.

[Illini Trekker]

Bighorn I do it before each trip just for the piece of mind. Does it need it after the wheel gets set, no. I pull mine to 140# same as the trucks.

[Wrenchtraveller]

I got the pkg too and you can see the biggest concern is when you first change a wheel after repairing a flat. I also agree that checking the torque before each trip gives peace of mine and for Keystone to go through the expense of sending every owner this set of instructions there had to be quite a few incidents of rims coming loose.
IMHO most of the incidents were probably caused by inexperienced people not following a proper tightening sequence, under tightened bolts, and dirt on the spare rim .

Checking the torque really doesn't take very long and could really save you from a serious accident. Just imagine what a run away tire could do to an oncoming vehicle.

I think it is prudent to check your rims before each trip. Good Luck and just make sure that long handled torque wrench is always with you. Don.

[Glenn and Lorraine]

I hadn't checked my torque for over a year and when I did every lug was within the 110/120 range. I have since checked them twice and have yet to find any changes in the tightness.
I feel Keystone may have had a few incidents and sent this notification to cover any possible future issues.

[Bighorn]

I agree checking torque periodically is important on any type of vehicle and especially after service or rotation. Before and after seems a little extreme.
They pointed out in the video the tandem wheels experience a lot of stresses on the lugs from side flex. I was concerned that maybe there has been stud failure with the larger 16” tires and aluminum rims.
On Christmas day my daughter’s boy friend was witness to a fatal accident. A pickup truck was making a turn when his wheel came off and flew through another trucks window killing the driver. After hearing about this traumatic incident and receiving the service bulletin I became a little concerned. Just being paranoid I guess.

[Montana Sky]

The main reason Keystone sent this bulletin out was for folks with the aluminum wheels. There was some paint that was causing wheels to become loose. Keystone sent out a recall to scrape the paint off and reinstall the wheel. My dealership called me about this, although I did get the cd and instructions packet about a month later. I bought a torque wrench after I had the service done at my dealership, cost of the wrench was around $25.

On a side note, I had taken my coach down to the local commerical tire shop and had the wheels balanced. I asked the shop to retorque to 110lb/ft and they said ok, on the way home from picking up my coach the brakes squealed every time I hit the brakes. Did this for two days and I took it back to my dealership to find the problem. The problem was the tire shop torqued to 145lb/ft which was over-torqued causing something to rub, forget what mechanic said exactly. Dealership torqued to 110lb/ft and squeal has been gone since. Just thought I would pass that on incase anyone else has that problem in the future.

[Dave e Victoria]

!40 ft-lb is very high. I would never torque over the spec as over torquing can be far worse than under torque. Here is the problem. If you under torque, you have the potential for not enough friction force on the surface of the nut and it can back off and become loose. On the otherhand, if you overtorque, you have to potential of stretching the bolt. Even small amounts of stretch will cause the bolt to eventually crystalize and fail. This failure is abrupt and rather permenant.

Here is the trick. There is usually a range of torque in the spec. Get above the lower spec but NEVER exceed the higher spec.

One other point. The adjustable torque wrenches most of us buy at places like harbor freight are notorious for being out of calibration. (although probably no worse than the airchuck contraptions the tire shops use.) When the wrench is not in use, the spring tension should be relieved by setting the wrench to a low value. It is alo good to check the calibration every year or so. This can be done wih a large spring scale or using a beam style torque wrench.

[Montana_4221]

I would like to re-emphasize what Dave stated about adjustable torque wrenches. Considering what we pay for our rigs, a decent torque wrench is a minor investment and with proper care can last a good many years. I have an old Craftsman wrench and when it is not in use it is in the case with the spring tension released. I also check the calibration from time to time. Also try to exercise care not to ever drop an adjustable wrench. There are a number of companies that sell good torque wrenches that are not too much more than the cheap ones.

[rlwhit]

Had an interesting conversation with my nephew. He is an Air Force aircraft maintance chief. He said the reason that Keystone sent out the DVD etc. is that aluminum has no memory. We torgue up and than later make a tight turn and you have noticed how the tires flex with a two axle rig. More than the set torque is on the bolt and nut. Dent in wheel bolt hole receptal. Down the rod it will loosen. He may be wrong, but it sure makes sence to me. I will continue to check torque.

[H. John Kohl]

My comment is in track with the rest. The most important thing is the check your tires after they have been serviced or repaired. Again repeating the aluminum rim are more of a problem with lug nuts coming loose.
One my first trip after checking the bearings and brakes I check the lugs before we pull out, 50 miles down the road, 100 down the road and the next 100. If at this last check all are ok then I will spot-check them before pulling out.
A man on the campsite next to me told me he delivered for the factory and they had to do the above because almost every lug nut was loose on the first check (50 miles). He said on was lost so he does carry spares.
Good luck and Safe Towing.

[old turbo]

I deliver travel trailers and 5vrs for different manufacturers out of Indiana part time. Part of my pretrip check is to make sure the lug nuts are tight.We are not required to use a torgue wrench, just have a four bar general purpose,so that is what I use. Once on the road I try to check around 50 miles and then around 100 miles.I have yet to find any loose lugs. I cant say that every transporter checks the lugs.That part said I would check just to make sure.I have never seen a dealers check off list that they check the lug nuts, or just put a check that they did.

[Wrenchtraveller]

I do agree that the Aluminum wheels we have on our Montanas might be a higher risk for coming loose than the Steel rims. Reason I believe this is because the aluminum rims I have had on my last three Ford pickups do not use bevel faced nuts as our Montana rims do to centre the rim.

On the pickup rims, the hub fit centres the wheel and you have nuts with an attached swivel washer that does not turn in the hole like bevel nuts do. The nuts are harder than the rim and over many
tire changes, you will get some small wear and that is why the Keystone Insructions tell you to keep the tire in the same orientation when you take them off and on.

Even knowing this I am glad I have the Aluminum rims, much nicer looking.

As far as it being a hardship to check your torque before every day's travel, I just went out with my brand new Torque wrench with a 24" inch handle my boss just gave me. It took me less than 30 seconds a rim working relaxed and easy so in under 2 minutes I was finished.
I am 55 and I pull wrenches for a living. In 20 years from now if I am still lucky enough to be on the planet, it might be a different story.

If an older frailer person were to ask me to check his rims for him, I would be very happy to help but I believe most of us here on the forum would find this a very easy task and 2 minutes of my time to check something this important is a great use of time. Take care, Don

[Illini Trekker]

Are Montana's lug bolt 9/16" dia. or 1/2"? With out taking a lug nut off, I'm not sure but would think there 9/16". My point is Montana may say 110ft/lb to 120ft/lb torque is what they recommend but other sources say 9/16" need to be torqued to 140ft/lb of torque.

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/inf....dos#motorhome

Also if you use antiseaze this will give a false/improper torque reading. I choose not to use the stuff.

I need to stand corrected after taking a lug nut off, the lugs are 1/2" dia. with a torque of 120#.

[Wrenchtraveller]

Thanks for the link . Three of my rims were at 120 PSI and the one I took off because the tire would not hold pressure took 150 pounds of torque to remove. That tire had been repaired with a big plug and it had cord damage so it is toast. My dealer has ordered me a new tire and figures the contract hauler got a flat pulling it from the factory. Whoever tightened the wheel nuts did not use a torque wrench.

Yes, anti-seize makes the fastener tighter with less torque and at work we have charts for using anti seize and the proper torque values. In the pulp and paper industry we use anti-seize on almost everything but on wheel nuts, I prefer not to use anything. Take care, Don.

[richfaa]

After reading all the post regarding the importance of proper lug nut torque I went out a got one this morning. Never had one for our TT's but the Fifth wheel is a different animal. Got the Craftsman microtork 1/2 inch drive, 20 to 150 ft-lbs 20 inch handle..it looks sturdy enough. It was regular 74.99 on sale for 69.99 and we had a 10.00 off any purchase coupon.Still a lot of $ for one tool but I figure it will be worth it. We alwyas checked our TT lug nuts for tightness but never used a torque wrench. We will alo be getting steel wheels..I know Aluminum wheels are pretty but I would rather have the steel.

[sreigle]

Be sure to recheck the torque every 50 to 100 miles after lugnuts have been loosened. Do this until they no longer tighten when you check. That means three or four rechecks on ours. We had a blowout about an hour north of Oklahoma City last Monday so I was doing this check the next couple hundred miles.

[rickfox]

Rich,

About a week after I picked up our new 3400, I took a trip to PEP Boys to check out their hubcaps. I decided to not pay the $600 for the aluminum and because of the stories about loose lug nuts.

I purchased a set of caps for $31.95 that fit great and look great, but you have to make sure they will fit over the hubs. They are chrome plated plastic. When I took the rig by for some minor warranty work, the CS manager mentioned they looked really good.

[richfaa]

I have seen the same thing at Auto Zone..Think we will buy a set.

[Montana Sky]

I have not had any trouble with my aluminum wheels coming loose. You just have to be sure to check them as stated by Keystone and other members every 50,100, and 150 miles until they are secure. I usually take the torque wrench around before the trip and double check. After having these wheels for almost 3 years now with no trouble, I know if a new coach ever comes my way there will be aluminum wheels on it. I think the main thing is to check them in your pretrip inspection.

[sreigle]

Rickfox, any chance of a picture of the caps? I'm interested. Thanks.