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04-03-2010, 02:26 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Antioch
Posts: 148
M.O.C. #9267
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Leveling side to side
Has anyone used jacks (scissor or bottle) to level side to side rather than placing boards under the wheels?
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04-03-2010, 03:02 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: corning
Posts: 694
M.O.C. #6635
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We use some boards but usually use the Orange, leggo type ,Blocks to build up one side. I've seen people using jacks and it seems to take more time and be more difficult. I think the bottle jack, like I use to change tires, would work better than a scissor jack, but then I would want to block under the frame or wheels anyway.
I've also seen people dig out the high side to level too.
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04-03-2010, 04:29 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Land O Lakes
Posts: 2,751
M.O.C. #7753
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We use 2x8s or 2x10s for heavy adjustments and 1x10s for fine tuning. We also use the Lego blocks but they can be time consuming for overnight stays. Few scissors jacks have the weight capacity to handle the weight of a rig and bottle jacks as well as the scissors jacks are not very stable. For safety we prefer to use the lumber... Dave
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04-03-2010, 05:40 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Brownsburg
Posts: 1,186
M.O.C. #5634
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CBTraveler, I don't use jacks, I'm like Exnavydiver and use boards. 1 2x10 is equal to half a bubble on one wheel and 1 2x10 under both wheels on low side is equal to 1 bubble on my unit. Thing of using jacks, you would have to stack a lot of boards to sit the bottle jack or scissor jack on so it rest on the frame. I wouldn't recommend using jacks under the axles for leveling purposes.
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04-03-2010, 05:48 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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I use the scissor jacks in front of the tires to take the spring bounce out. When I had to replace a tire the tire shop did not have a jack tall enough to raise Monty. I lowered the scissor jack for extended reach. When they jacked with a 3ton jack it busted the scissor jack at the screw post and cross section. I called Ball about it and their first words were is is not for jacking a trailer. I told them I did not put 7500 lbs on it and they finally replaced it since too many parts needed to be swapped out.
So, NO DO NOT USE SCISSOR JACK TO RAISE MONTY.
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04-03-2010, 03:14 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: South Shore
Posts: 6,009
M.O.C. #7110
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I always try to park first of all level from side to side. If I need to level it I use the plastic stackable blocks and raise whichever side is needed. After a while it’s just becomes second nature.
__________________
2011 GMC 4X4 dually CC, 6.6 Duramax with Allison Transmission. Formally 2001 Montana,2007 3400RL Montana, presently 2018 3401RS Alpine.
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04-03-2010, 04:59 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Casa Grande
Posts: 5,369
M.O.C. #6333
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Lumber under the wheels for sure. DW does this while I sit and jockey the truck back and forth. we use 2X10's, never had a need for anything smaller.
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04-03-2010, 08:05 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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Scissor Jacks are not weight bearing, are they? And Bottle Jacks are not recommended for long term, in fact all jack usage documentation would request you use a strong jackstand in addition to a bottle jack for this purpose. I have seen bottle jacks fail when left just overnight. One was a car, one was my 3/4 ton pickup. Luckily I did have backup jackstands in place to catch what dropped. I can't imagine leaving this to chance with my 7 ton trailer.
Unless you use a huge and strong system like Big Foot levelers or something designed for heavy weight strength and long term usage, I think it's best to use the lumber or legos since they raise the trailer with some stability from under the tires that carry the weight of the trailer most of the time anyway. Just don't forget to chock your tires to prevent the trailer from rolling off. I am getting very used to the Lynx levelers I use, but I am considering changing to lumber because it would fit the tire much better.
Of course, this is only my opinion and you can certainly try whatever you are willing to pay for if it doesn't work.
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04-04-2010, 09:25 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: anywhere
Posts: 912
M.O.C. #6260
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Use wood, we have 1 1/2" to 3" ramp, out of 2 by 10 for drive up on really bad camp sites, but we usually can jocky back and forth a bit and not have to use any thing. I have gone back to a campground office and asked to be moved to a site that was level, they always look so suprised "that sites not level" well no, it wasn't before I got here and won't be after I leave but I won't use it.
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04-04-2010, 05:34 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Texas City
Posts: 5,736
M.O.C. #7673
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I hate to throw a wrench into this, but it was mentioned about suing those "building block" pieces to level. If you visit any good tire site they will warn about parking on the hexagonal block designs, as they do not support the entire footprint of the tire. So, I use them only to get up on the wood 2 x 10's when necessary. I don't ever park on them for any period of time.
Happy trails.
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04-05-2010, 01:35 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,372
M.O.C. #8728
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2 2X8's for me. If I need to raise one side more than 3 inches, I'll move to a different site. Jacks are used for stability AFTER leveling.
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