Remote thermostat - Page 3 - Montana Owners Club

mazeeff · 03-02-2005, 10:29 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by campbud

I put a call into them and they said the dealer would have to give them a call to discuss it. So it is up to the dealer and them now. Maybe to many calls about this ..He did give me the upgrade parts numbers. They are the same ones in your photos....You will have to let us know if this is better. Thanks for posting this.

I was worried about that. The cost of these parts can not be cheap, and I expected a flood of calls to them as a result of these posts. Either way, Dometic needs to step up to the plate and fix these problems. If a RV were a car, this would be a nationwide recall!

Montana_2730 · 03-02-2005, 02:25 PM

I only wanted to say to those reading this forum who may not post, that we are totally happy with our remote control. I can lay in the bed and shut the AC or furnace off/on/change temp/time it etc... it has some unique features. May be someday I'll break out my thermal laser we use at work and take readings at the receiver and at the remote in the "I feel mode" to see what the actual temps are. For right now my natural temperature indicator says, we are happy. So please do not think it is all one sided and bad concerning this product. We are not a reps for Dometic, there are always differing views. We feel most of the posts about this topic are negative and just wanted to say our thoughts.

mjcjtroy · 03-03-2005, 02:55 AM

I am happy to hear that yours works but ours didn't and sounds like there are others out there
that are not right. Like I said earlier at one point ours completely shut down. And before that it could be hours before the heat would come back on. I can live with a remote system if it works properly. When ours finally crashed our entire trailer was frozen inside even our food in the cupboards. The water lines outside were fine but inside we were totally frozen. So I'm not against the entire idea of the remote...just happy we don't have it anymore.

sreigle · 03-03-2005, 04:22 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by DD TRAVELERS

WE are new to the forum and don't yet have the Montana 2955 we think we want to start full timing this fall. Somewhat distressed by the direction this particular remote thermostat discussion went before it has apparently generated a good fix. It seems to me that if your heater fan in your new Ford malfuntions, you don't pull it out to find out who built it so that you can go to them, you go to your Ford dealer of Ford central - especially if the problem is affecting many Ford owners.

I am just really disappointed that Keystone apparently didn't do nearly enough to solve this wide spread very serious problem with their product. Has diminished my enthusiasm for going with the Keystone product. Any thoughts?

On the other hand, it is so encouraging to see so many talented folks so willing to help out and offer encouragement.

We are SO ANXIOUS to get started!! DMW

Hi DD Travelers and welcome aboard! And congratulations on the soon to have 2955. It's a great model with a large following here on MOC. And I really hope you enjoy your fulltiming as much as we do.

I think your post kinda got lost in the shuffle so wanted to make a comment. It looks like not everyone is unhappy with the remote thermostat. And those who are have recently discovered a replacement solution from Dometic.

I don't know how much time there will be from delivery of your new Montana to start of your travels. If that time is rather short, you might consider having your dealer get the replacement parts from Dometic so he can make this swap for you before you take delivery.

Just a thought. Please keep us informed as you approach Montana delivery and after, especially your travels.

edited-- just realized there was more in your post. Keystone is not perfect, any more than other RV manufacturers. But they do listen to us and their prospective customers at RV Shows and the like. Many of us can give you specific details about how that has happened. I think the bottom line is the Montana/Mountaineer lines are probably the best bang for the buck you can find in this price range, at least in my opinion. I also figure that Montana being the best selling trailer in North America for four years in a row says a lot both about the quality of the trailer and the quality of the customer service. Again, my opinion. I do not harbor any thoughts that they are perfect. But they do try hard and I appreciate that.

I also wish the RV industry was like the auto industry when it comes to warranty but they're not. There may be some six-figure brand out there that does that but we've had products from Keystone, Jayco, and Fleetwood and they all operate the same way when it comes to the third party content of the trailers.

My personal opinion is the Montana and the 2955 are excellent choices. I hope you have many years of enjoyment from yours.

mazeeff · 03-03-2005, 04:41 AM

Before I change out my remote system this weekend, I am going to try one more thing. The manual for the roof mount A/C shows a option for a remote temp sensor. This is plugged into the P4 (White) connector. Using this option, moves the temp sensor from the wall unit up to the ceiling unit. Reading the temp at the ceiling would be a mistake, and could result in the 10 degree error a lot of us are seeing. This should be easy to check, and test. The location of the P4 connector is clearly indicated in the manual I posted earlier. My replacement non-remote unit, did not come with a remote sensor, and P4 is left unconnected. This results in the sensor in the comfort control wall unit being used. If anyone can check this prior to Sunday, please post your results!

Jeff Heiser · 03-03-2005, 07:47 AM

DD Travelers,
I read your post and then I reread yours and the rest of the posts. Don't be disappointed with Keystone over a remote controlled thermostat. I have owned 3 other units all from different manufactures and can tell you Keystone is light years ahead of them and that’s why Keystone has my business. As for it being a very serious problem and lacking the proper attention by Keystone, at least Keystone has acknowledged there may be a problem. My last TT had so many deficiencies that were a direct result of a manufacturer who just didn’t care, it was unsafe to use (main gas line leaked, slide-out that just about fell out because there was no stop blocks in place, leaks due to stress fractures in the sidewalls etc and this was a brand new unit). When I had brought it in to get the deficiencies fixed it sat 6 weeks at which time I was told I caused all the problems and I would have to pay to have them fixed (yes it was under warranty). Needless to say it was gone shortly there after.

Strictly MY Own Opinion with no insult intended towards anyone:
Personally, I like to keep things simple and would prefer not to have a remote controlled climate control system in my TT (it’s an option). I believe it’s just another system that can give you problems. I considered what I had in my stick house which didn’t have a remote controlled climate control system. I then considered how far I had to get up and move in the stick house in order to change the thermostat compared to what it is in the TT. I know when you are in bed or in your favorite chair it sometimes is a pain to get up and change the temperature setting but you know when we are staying in our rig we set the temperature and leave it. Besides, why do I want a remote when from anyplace in my TT it’s about 20 steps or less to the thermostat? For some it’s cool, for others it’s a novelty and for people like me it’s just something else that can break or require batteries (budget item).

I apologize in advance if I have offended anyone with my comments above. Now you have my two cents.

Jeff Heiser
Merritt Island Florida

campbud · 03-03-2005, 08:25 AM

I have a question for anyone who could answer please...The green light on mine is always blinking..is this to be on at all times? My dealer isnt quite sure. They are calling Dometic and are going to ask them if I can just switch to the wall control. I think this will be alot easier for us...I am always losing things and misplacing them..LOL ..I will let you know what I hear.

Broome101 · 03-03-2005, 11:51 AM

OK, has anyone tried doing this on there own? I got mine in today and looked at it looked simple, play and go. Here lays the problem, the new control board comes two yellow wires, two blue wires, blk wire Adan red wire. i know blk wire is 12 volt neg, red is 12 volt positive. The existing wiring there are no blue wires or yellow wires at all. Anyone have any idea which existing wires hook up to the new system? Did not want to take it in if I can do myself but need help if anyone else has tried doing it themselves.

mazeeff · 03-03-2005, 12:04 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Broome101

OK, has anyone tried doing this on there own? I got mine in today and looked at it looked simple, play and go. Here lays the problem, the new control board comes two yellow wires, two blue wires, blk wire Adan red wire. i know blk wire is 12 volt neg, red is 12 volt positive. The existing wiring there are no blue wires or yellow wires at all. Anyone have any idea which existing wires hook up to the new system? Did not want to take it in if I can do myself but need help if anyone else has tried doing it themselves.

Dometic told me that the yellow (load shed) wires are unused. The blue wires go to the furnace. Are you sure you have no blue wires? See page 41 of the service manual I posted earlier.

Broome101 · 03-03-2005, 12:19 PM

OK the box that came says on it that the blue wires are load shield what ever that is and yellow are the furnace wires.Yes I have 2 blue and 2 yellow coming from new box. I in unit itself there are a large red,(positive 12V) Large white ( common or negative 12V) and very tiny red and white that appear to go down to furnace look to be about 20 gouger or so wires. No blue or yellow in unit itself.

Broome101 · 03-03-2005, 12:25 PM

Mazeff, you are correct I went back and brought the box in the yellows are load shield wires, what are they for and blue are furnace. So I presume that it doesn't matter which wire you hook it to on the furnace side than. What are the big bolts they sent with it, I can get to everything without having to dismantle the unit itself. I presume since they are that long and big that they connect to the top unit somehow. i think I will call Dometic tomorrow and get the skinny on the blue wires what they should hook up to. Thanks

mazeeff · 03-03-2005, 12:38 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Broome101

Mazeff, you are correct I went back and brought the box in the yellows are load shield wires, what are they for and blue are furnace. So I presume that it doesn't matter which wire you hook it to on the furnace side than. What are the big bolts they sent with it, I can get to everything without having to dismantle the unit itself. I presume since they are that long and big that they connect to the top unit somehow. i think I will call Dometic tomorrow and get the skinny on the blue wires what they should hook up to. Thanks

1. Not sure what the yellow load shed wires do, but they are not used!
2. My understanding is that it does not matter how the blue wires are hooked up to the furnace, as long as both are hooked up, and connect to the two furnace wires!
3. The long bolts are not used. They bolt the inside unit to the outside unit. They are included simply because they come in the same package as the metal cover that covers the wiring on the circuit box.

Broome101 · 03-03-2005, 12:46 PM

I will let you know who it goes plan on doing it tomorrow afternoon after work when I get off after lunch. Thanks

OntMont · 03-03-2005, 01:08 PM

Just to add a bit more to the mix, I have disconnected my furnace themostat leads at the furnace and connected them to a progamable digital thermostat. ("Ritetemp" model 8022C from Home Depot). This is not too hard to do in a 3670, and it works just fine. For now, I have left the A/C on the remote system. The two thermostats leads have to be connectd to W and HR/HC, it does not matter which goes where.

Dometic would not supply a replacement control without having the present one checked out by an "authorized dealer", and at present I am not about to haul the trailer to a dealer just for that. The replacement is aparently still not a programmable unit, so even if I get one, I'll probably leave the heat on the programmable thermostat. The Ritetemp thermostat is very easy to work with, lots of room and nice big well labeled terminals, adjustable sensitivity and easily programmed.

In our unit, the remote won't operate from the bedroom because of the line of sight to the wall receiver requirement.

sreigle · 03-03-2005, 04:23 PM

Jeff Heiser, I agree with your comments. It takes me longer to find the remote than it would to get up and change the channel on the tv. We don't have the remote for the furnace/ac.

Broome101 · 03-04-2005, 11:12 AM

Well I did it myself today, took about 25 minutes to do the whole thing, very simple. On the old unit the 12gauge red wire goes to red wire on new unit (12V +), the 12 gauge white wire attached with red wire goes to black 12 gauge wire on new unit (12V-). The tiny tiny wires hook up to the blue wires no particular way. the two yellow wires are not used tape ends of the off. Inside the new unit turn dip switch #5 to the on position, install the white wire that is frost detector into coil as shown, plug phone wire into connector that is at back of unit toward rear of camper. Your done here, make sure you disconnect both 120VAC and 12 v power sources before you start. Then change out the wall unit pretty simple. Once the unit is turned on if you see EE this is error code. Press the top button and bottom button in at the same time and hold in till you see FF than the reset has been completed and you are ready to go. i tried it at 75 degrees cut off at 75 degrees, cooled it down to 65 degrees shut off at 65 degrees, went back to 72 and then back down to 55 degree very exact on temp shut off. i am very pleased now. Thanks Dometic.

mazeeff · 03-04-2005, 11:45 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Broome101

Well I did it myself today, took about 25 minutes to do the whole thing, very simple. On the old unit the 12gauge red wire goes to red wire on new unit (12V +), the 12 gauge white wire attached with red wire goes to black 12 gauge wire on new unit (12V-). The tiny tiny wires hook up to the blue wires no particular way. the two yellow wires are not used tape ends of the off. Inside the new unit turn dip switch #5 to the on position, install the white wire that is frost detector into coil as shown, plug phone wire into connector that is at back of unit toward rear of camper. Your done here, make sure you disconnect both 120VAC and 12 v power sources before you start. Then change out the wall unit pretty simple. Once the unit is turned on if you see EE this is error code. Press the top button and bottom button in at the same time and hold in till you see FF than the reset has been completed and you are ready to go. i tried it at 75 degrees cut off at 75 degrees, cooled it down to 65 degrees shut off at 65 degrees, went back to 72 and then back down to 55 degree very exact on temp shut off. i am very pleased now. Thanks Dometic.

Excellent. I hope to get mine done on Sunday!

mazeeff · 03-06-2005, 03:18 AM

Quote:

quote:Inside the new unit turn dip switch #5 to the on position, install the white wire that is frost detector into coil as shown, plug phone wire into connector that is at back of unit toward rear of camper.

I completed the install this afternoon. Will write up a full report later. The only complication I encountered was the freeze guard connector. On the old unit it is a set of spade lugs. On the new one it is a plug on connector. I did not want to go to the trouble of routing the new freeze guard cable, so I spliced the new connector on the old cable. The other thing I noticed is that there is NO remote temp sensor in the ceiling like some had thought. The temp sensor is in the wall unit. Took a little over one hour for the complete install.

Broome101 · 03-06-2005, 09:47 AM

++Dometic told me too, I also saw the same thing so first I left them all off, went and turned it on no furnace display, turned dip switch 5 on and it worked. That is also what dometic told me so I guess they were right.

mazeeff · 03-06-2005, 10:02 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Broome101

++Dometic told me too, I also saw the same thing so first I left them all off, went and turned it on no furnace display, turned dip switch 5 on and it worked. That is also what dometic told me so I guess they were right.

You were correct. I was reading the worong documentation. Switch 5 must be on for the furnace to work! Sorry.

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