Mod's on new Montana - Page 2 - Montana Owners Club

Broome101 · 07-13-2006, 12:02 PM

OK you guys that are electrically minded. I understand that somewhere that the power legs are separated into two separate 120 lines inside the camper. I understand that. I was told since I was tripping one side of the camper under high power demands that I needed to separate the loads. Looked into the panel box I see the two hot leads, one buss duct full of white common wires, the other full of ground or green wires. So how would you separate the second AC to the other side or load side of the camper?

Ozz · 07-13-2006, 01:26 PM

Broome101,
Hi, are you saying the main 50 amp breaker trips?
The second A/C unit's breaker should be on the opposite bus bar, if not, just move the breaker over one slot, you can move any of the lighter load breakers, (lighting maybe.)
Let me know if this does or doesn't help, I'll try harder if not.
Jim, or Ozz

Illini Trekker · 07-13-2006, 02:42 PM

Ozz; Yes another play toy to goof with. I also had a spare breaker to work with in the basement and front compartment. In the front compartment I plan to plug the truck into in the winter, sense that is not heated up there. The load on the outside receptacle is already high.
The black belly of the beast takes a 3/8 socket on your screw gun and take off running. Nothing will fall out or off on you (at least on my 05 2955RL). You see the more you have off the better (screws) the plumbing, gas lines and axles will hold it up. The spare tire holder on mine was screwed in while down there I changed those to bolts. Lots of stuff to play with under there! Now I wished I'd done more?

Broome101 Like Ozz said there are two main breakers, the smaller breakers if you would count them 1 2 3 so-on the odd number breakers feed from the first main and the even ones feed from the second main breaker.

Broome101 · 07-14-2006, 01:08 AM

Good deal, I understand now. My main does not trip, my VB will trip out one of it's breakers when I have too much load. But when it trips it is usually when both AC's are going, washer turned on or another source such as microwave or hair dryer. When it does trip only part of the coach is out of power. This was first time it happened, I think it may have been the camp ground power, because I was in high boost each time. Checked my friends camper who has no booster and it was 107 VAC. Mt second AC is on the last 20 amp breaker to your right of the panel, it was the only open 20 amp breaker in the panel. Not sure if load is not balanced or it was CG power issue. What threw me for loop was when VB kicked off it's breaker it only killed part of the camper such as both AC, microwave, washer etc. But if what you are saying that ever other slot is on separate side of the power distribution than that would not make since to me, due to all the 20 amp breakers are double breakers side by side so something should have been able to work, unless the VB uses one side of it's transformer for high amp s and the other breaker for low draws. I am puzzled little on this. I hope it was just CG power issues, will see next time we camp if it does it again.

Broome101 · 07-14-2006, 05:08 AM

OK I think I have it know, went out and looked. if what you are saying about ever other space indicates separate 50 amp legs than no wonder it tripped it out. the main AC, front AC, Microwave, and washer were all on same odd breaker. I have moved few things around like the fireplace that is not used when AC is etc, and know have 1 AC, Microwave, Converter on one and the Main AC, Washer on the opposite leg. Hopefully if that is how it works every other breaker is different leg i will have it split up little better know.

Illini Trekker · 07-14-2006, 06:43 AM

Has you moved the breaker or you could drop all the breakers out you'll see the even odd setup in the breaker box. Look at it that way and it will explain what I'm seeing. See-ya

Broome101 · 07-14-2006, 07:39 AM

I think I got it the last time if every other one is different leg had too much on one leg. Not just too much but all the high amp draw appliances were on same leg.

sreigle · 07-14-2006, 09:52 AM

Ozz, you can access the frame by dropping the bellypan under the Montana. You might have to remove the spare and its carrier to get full access but dropping a corner will let you see in there.

Ozz · 07-14-2006, 11:47 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Ozz, you can access the frame by dropping the bellypan under the Montana. You might have to remove the spare and its carrier to get full access but dropping a corner will let you see in there.

Cool Beans!
Thanks, when it cools off a little, I'll look into that.
I was working on rooftop Air conditioning units and walk in freezer condenser change outs, changed out two today, and did 3 A/C service calls, Hot, miserable and sweaty!!!!!!!!
Ozz

Broome101 · 07-14-2006, 12:31 PM

Ozz, Let me get into your experience here little. I am installing a 2500 watt inverter into my truck. I have installed 2/0 cable from battery to under the seat from pos side of one battery and 2/0 to seat frame for the ground. My question is other than the circuit breaker on the inverter do you think I should install a 50 amp reset breaker, or just wire it straight up. I used 2/0 cable because I had some left over from a job, so it was free.

Ozz · 07-15-2006, 01:18 AM

Wow! That is a powerful inverter for your truck. I have 10 6 Volt golf car batteries hooked up to my 2500 Watt inverter that powers my entire home! I think you might rethink the large inverter, I'm afraid that your one or two truck batteries will be overwhelmed. What do you intend to power up with your inverter?
Also remember that automobile starting batteries are not to be used with inverters, if you plan on running them down low when using the inverter, then use trolling motor, Rv, and golf cart type. The plates are heaver and made for just this type of use.
But to answer your question, yes, I would install an in-line fuse just off the batteries.
Google "The 12 Volt side of life" this a great information, lots of questions and answers about 12 Volt usage.
I have a small inverter hard wired in my '06 Lariat PSD for our laptop, works great.
My advise would be to work backwards, find the amps (Watts) for the item you intend to use on 110 v. then size the inverter to that load, keep in mind the capacity of your batteries.
After you read :The 12 Volt side of life" this will all become clearer.
Good luck!
Ozz

Broome101 · 07-15-2006, 01:40 AM

Good deal on the inverter only 150 bucks new. After looking at it yes it's a 2500 watt inverter but has 2, 110 VAC outlets and each only can handle;e 1500 watts. I plan on using a air compressor and kids game inside the truck. The air compressor for emergency use more than anything, same for the inverter. Don't plan on using it all the time, but when I need it for air compressor it will be there.

MAMalody · 07-15-2006, 06:11 PM

Speaking of inverters. I have the standard "cigarette lighter" plug in my 3575RL. The other day, while on the road, I pluged my 400 watt inverter into it to use my small tv on. It went straight to default and would not power the TV. Pluged a small table lamp in and it buzzed but powered the lamp. I use it in my pickup to power the laptop my wife may be using. Why will it not work for my tv, which only draws about 65 watts?

Ozz · 07-16-2006, 05:25 AM

Mike,
Is it possible the TV draws more than 65 Watts? Otherwise, I am guessing poor 12 Volt plug in, or poor wiring connection to the plug. You might try the other plugs in your RV. The buzzing on the lamp is also a clue that there is possibly a connection problem.
I hard wired the inverter we use in the truck, that way, I know it is getting full voltage. Those 12 volt female plugs vary in quality.
Good luck,
Ozz

MAMalody · 07-16-2006, 12:34 PM

Duh, I didn't think of that. Let me check it out. Thanks.

Ozzie · 07-16-2006, 03:09 PM

Mods we have done...well...our water pump was making too much noise for my taste, so I read up on it and added a lenght of flexible water line (3 foot toilet line from Menards with a male adapter made into a double loop).
I also added the Shurflo Accumulator and put the pump and accumulator of a piece of foam instead of screwed to the floor.
The result is - when the water is running, I have to strain to hear the pump running over the noise the water makes. This total fix was 50 bucks and the water delivery is smooth and quiet - no more pulsing.

skypilot · 07-18-2006, 03:37 AM

Ozzi: You may want to save some $$ and look into disk brakes and either mor/ryde or Trailair pin box -- you're making your castle, will probably want to safeguard some of that work with a quality ride

(Reason I add this note is that I just got trailair centerpoint suspension and pin box and ride is so much better.) My next $$ outlay is for the disk brakes. Everything I read about them state how much better they are than the electrics. Just a thought.

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