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08-06-2018, 07:48 PM
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Holdrege
Posts: 49
M.O.C. #19802
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Underbelly removal
I have 2008 Montana 3500RL and am wanting to know how hard is it to remove the underbelly? All 3 of my tank valves are a b#@=÷ to open and close. I am installing electrics valves and want to know if it's worth paying RV dealer to do...
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08-06-2018, 08:21 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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My 2010 used screws to hold the underbelly on. Lots of screws.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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08-06-2018, 08:32 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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Our 2015 still has self tappers to include the cross braces. Easy to deal with. Unlike the newer ones where nail guns were used. Not hard. I decided on direct threaded rod pulls which. Have worked well for us but understand the electric configurations are nice to have.
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Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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08-06-2018, 09:03 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Carson City
Posts: 2,017
M.O.C. #21963
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You can do it. Regardless of how the bottom comes off, do it and you will have confidence in going up there when something breaks on the road. If it is held up with "nails" let us know and we'll share the trick in dealing with them. Like ^^ the direct pull valves are as simple and reliable as it gets.
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08-07-2018, 06:00 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Austin
Posts: 2,390
M.O.C. #21044
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Nail removal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montana Man
.....If it is held up with "nails" let us know and we'll share the trick in dealing with them. Like ^^ the direct pull valves are as simple and reliable as it gets.
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This got my curiosity going so I looked at mine today and I have the “nails”. I don’t need to remove my coroplast at the present time - but how do you remove those things? And I assume you go back with self tappers that are removable - right?does the nail come out completely so that you can run a screw back into the same hole?
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MikenDebbie Aggie ‘77 in the sticks near Austin TX
2019 Chevy 3500 High Country DRW
2018 Montana 3921FB
Aussie Gus + Texas Heeler Jimmy
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08-07-2018, 07:34 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Carson City
Posts: 2,017
M.O.C. #21963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikendebbie
This got my curiosity going so I looked at mine today and I have the “nails”. I don’t need to remove my coroplast at the present time - but how do you remove those things? And I assume you go back with self tappers that are removable - right?does the nail come out completely so that you can run a screw back into the same hole?
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I got this tip from scottz, cut out the plastic you see near the head of the nail. I used dykes to distort it, then pinch it off. Then with a 1/4" socket on a ratchet, give the nail a rotation to break its friction from the frame. Then as you "unscrew" it, pry the nail downward with a pry tool of your choice. A standard screwdriver works. It pops out very easily. Replace with a #14 3/4" self drilling/tapping screw in the same hole, with a fender washer to fit.
I replaced all the nails with screws so when stuff breaks on the road I can get in there and fix stuff.
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01-05-2021, 07:32 AM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Somis
Posts: 2
M.O.C. #27869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montana Man
I got this tip from scottz, cut out the plastic you see near the head of the nail. I used dykes to distort it, then pinch it off. Then with a 1/4" socket on a ratchet, give the nail a rotation to break its friction from the frame. Then as you "unscrew" it, pry the nail downward with a pry tool of your choice. A standard screwdriver works. It pops out very easily. Replace with a #14 3/4" self drilling/tapping screw in the same hole, with a fender washer to fit.
I replaced all the nails with screws so when stuff breaks on the road I can get in there and fix stuff.
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Thank you! This info was HUGELY useful. We have the nails and your comment gave me the confidence to remove them. I actually ended up using vice grips hard locked on to the head, I could then wiggle them around and back and forth and they'd then pull away. Took some effort though! Thanks again--appreciate the advice
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09-01-2022, 02:10 PM
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#8
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Established Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Chaska
Posts: 11
M.O.C. #29693
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Can you share the trick with dealing with the nails holding up the underbelly?
__________________
2021 3791RD
2020 Chevy Silverado 3500HD Diesel
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09-01-2022, 02:21 PM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Somis
Posts: 2
M.O.C. #27869
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Underbelly nails
They’re nails so they’re not threaded. There’s a plastic cap or similar on the head that goes away easily.
Essentially I used a power screwdriver with the right size socket on it to twist the head of the mail a bit to loosen it maybe half a turn or so. It really doesn’t need much. I then used vise grips on the head to wrench and pull the mail out. Once the mail is first kinda loose, it only takes a bit of wrist effort on the vise grips to pull it out.
Once you’ve done one or two you’ll find you can yank them out in a few seconds each. It’s a weirdly daunting task until you do it, then it’s almost too easy! I then used machine screws to put the Corolast back, and that was almost more effort.
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09-01-2022, 02:24 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Carmichael - CA
Posts: 7,324
M.O.C. #4831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan T
Can you share the trick with dealing with the nails holding up the underbelly?
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Refer to Post #26 above.
__________________
Carl (n Susan)
There is more to life than fuel mileage.
2012 Montana 3700RL Big Sky Package towed by a 2015 Ford F350 6.7L PSD 4WD CC LWB
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09-01-2022, 02:30 PM
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#11
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Established Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Chaska
Posts: 11
M.O.C. #29693
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Thanks! Sorry, I didn’t read down far enough initially.
__________________
2021 3791RD
2020 Chevy Silverado 3500HD Diesel
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09-01-2022, 08:53 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Colorado Rockies
Posts: 1,910
M.O.C. #19755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan T
Can you share the trick with dealing with the nails holding up the underbelly?
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https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=76400 Post 4
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Scott & Alta
2017 Montana 3160RL, Legacy, Onan 5.5Kw, Solar
2022 F-450 Lariat Ultimate
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08-06-2018, 10:16 PM
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#13
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Established Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Holdrege
Posts: 49
M.O.C. #19802
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It has screws. I'm very mechanical just would be doing it alone in my driveway.
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Bryan S/Brenda C. 2016 Ram 2500HD / 2009 Montana 3500RL
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08-06-2018, 10:26 PM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 4,677
M.O.C. #12947
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I completely removed the coroplast material from the front belly area a few years ago to repair a crack in the gray tank. While in there, I secured all the electric, hydraulic, and the black tank flush line up to the frame and also added a couple more braces with foam blocking the provide support to both the tanks. It would have been nice having a second person to help reinstall the coroplast, but I managed. I would recommend getting additional Tek screws as you will likely have some break or get lost.
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Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
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08-07-2018, 12:21 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2017
Location: new caney
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #19873
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I used a floor jack with about a 3x3 piece of plywood in the center of the coroplast and jacked it up to the tanks then went around the edges and screwed it up. As Bob said you will need some extra self tapping screws.
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08-07-2018, 07:02 AM
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#16
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Arlington
Posts: 132
M.O.C. #21610
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I used a bottle Jack and a 4 foot 2x4. A bit of a balancing act getting the first few screws in. After first few screws it became easier with minor height adjustments as I worked my way forward.
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Cande & Daniel (Caniel)
2010 Mountaineer 295RKD | 2019 Chevrolet 3500 Duramax 4x4 CC LWB DRW
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08-07-2018, 06:05 AM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Bee Branch
Posts: 2,620
M.O.C. #20693
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Self tapping hex head screws with fender washers work well
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James & Irene Wilson
Bee Branch, AR.
2017 Ram 1 ton diesel duallyCrew Cab/Long Bed
2018 Montana High Country 381TH Garage Full of Toys
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08-07-2018, 07:33 AM
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#18
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Established Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Holdrege
Posts: 49
M.O.C. #19802
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Thanks all for the tips. It's going to be my fall project before winter sets in. Will post pictures as I get it done thank you
__________________
Bryan S/Brenda C. 2016 Ram 2500HD / 2009 Montana 3500RL
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08-07-2018, 09:44 AM
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#19
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Plains
Posts: 102
M.O.C. #20651
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My black water valve won’t fully close and my grey ( galley) valve vale’s cable is about 4” too long it seems. My question is: do you have to remove the whole underbelly in order to get to these? We have a 2014 3155RL .
TIA
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08-07-2018, 10:54 AM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Carmichael - CA
Posts: 7,324
M.O.C. #4831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idalogger52
<snip>
.... My question is: do you have to remove the whole underbelly in order to get to these? We have a 2014 3155RL
</snip>
TIA
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No, you only have to drop the last 2' of the coroplast at the rear of the dropped frame section. Everything you need to access is right there.
__________________
Carl (n Susan)
There is more to life than fuel mileage.
2012 Montana 3700RL Big Sky Package towed by a 2015 Ford F350 6.7L PSD 4WD CC LWB
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