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Old 08-26-2018, 10:06 PM   #81
masterdrago
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Originally Posted by ROMEO MONTANA View Post
I have a 3711FL and want to do this conversion. Almost lost the whole rig this past weekend. Somebody cut me off and slammed on the brakes to make the exit. My 5ver just about went through my truck. Luckily, the SH that cut me off seen I couldn't stop and stepped off the side. Where can I get this done in the Detroit area?
MORryde is only about 200 miles west from Detroit. http://www.rvnews.com/article.php?id=1019
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Old 09-05-2018, 07:45 PM   #82
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I have subscribed to this thread for a long time. I am finally going to bite the bullet and install the disk brakes.

I do have a question regarding hard tubing all the way to the calipers vs a rubber hose to the calipers.

Hard tubing, it is said will restrict movement of the caliper on the mount as well as making it harder to change out the pads in the future.

Flexible hose would be the answer but what about if you have a blowout and debris rips off the rubber flex hose? You would loose your entire trailer brake system.

At least with the electric brakes you would still have three wheels worth of brakes. With the hard line you might also have a better chance of retaining the fluid in the system.

Not at that point with the installation but am wondering which way to go.
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:07 PM   #83
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No doubt disk brakes work well on trailers. Short of that I put EBC brakes on my Ram TV and have much improved braking hitched and unhitched for $1100.
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:13 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Judy Liggon View Post
It was suggested by a mechanic friend that if there is a leak it would pool in the underbelly and wouldn't notice a problem until it became a big problem. You really can't see the lines unless you stoop down and look. Also he said, if it's the look just spray the line black or cover with tubing.
That is double talk but actually saying I am more concerned with doing this job quickly than doing a clean, safer installation.
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:45 PM   #85
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I'm not a fan of all rubber line. I did this install last year on another rv brand with nickle/copper brake lines and 18" hose connecting each caliper. I see no issue with the hose as there is hose on the front brakes of your truck and your car that could see the same fate you're worried about should a tire go. You can't worry about 100% of the what if's ... life will pass you by.
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Old 09-06-2018, 06:28 AM   #86
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I'm not a lover of all rubber lines but ended up with several so --- gotta say that they work just fine. I have a rubber hose at the actuator through the battery compartment floor, another at the frame step and more at the calipers. You do need rubber lines at the calipers as they are what is considered 'full floating' in that both sides of the caliper move along a slider bolt.



There are many different lengths of the rubber hoses or kits made by Kodiak, all of which are DOT certified. If that's the way you go, just make sure that you measure well and get the correct end fittings. If you choose steel lines, makes sure that your double flaring shills and tools are good enough. I've made literally hundreds of brake line double flares with nary a problem but doing the brakes on our 5er proved to be a challenge.
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Old 09-06-2018, 07:13 AM   #87
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I don't see how you could put solid lines to the calipers. With MORryde IS you have approx 5" of wheel travel, so how would that work with a solid connection?
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Old 09-06-2018, 02:16 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
I don't see how you could put solid lines to the calipers. With MORryde IS you have approx 5" of wheel travel, so how would that work with a solid connection?
I don't have IS
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Old 09-06-2018, 02:36 PM   #89
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M.O.C. #20477
Even without IS you have several inches of travel.
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Old 09-06-2018, 02:39 PM   #90
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The solid lines on mine are from wheel to wheel/caliper to caliper. There is a block/tee around 8" or so from the passenger side wheel which goes to the frame with rubber.

I fully understand that the calipers are free floating and move a bit, however there is plenty of slack in the lines for them to move.

I do not see an issue with taking out the rubber lines if they are routed away from the calipers towards the center of the axle as opposed to going straight up. Most if not all of the blowout debris will be flung outward because of the centrifugal force.

The only real issue I have is when it comes time to replace the pads, I'm not sure it can be done leaving the hard lines in place to the calipers. I guess I'm going to find out someday.
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Old 09-21-2018, 03:13 PM   #91
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Finished the install today and went for a test ride. The OP is right on ....WOW what a difference. Smooth sure stop without lockup or fade. Glad I did the disk brakes.
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Old 09-21-2018, 04:54 PM   #92
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Yes, it is a night and day difference. Anyone reading this tread should just bite the bullet and do it. I am ABSOLUTLY confident you will be impressed with the results.
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