|
07-08-2011, 09:47 AM
|
#1
|
Established Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Smithville
Posts: 26
M.O.C. #11176
|
Slide Out not in sync
Hello...new to RV'ing (Feb. 2011) and new to the forum. We have a 2011 Montana Mountaineer 324RLQ (36'). Very happy with the unit and enjoying our trips. The three slides on the utility side work perfectly. The large slide on the door side (living and dining) broke a few gear teeth. Problem solved I think or I thought by the dealer. Here's the real question. For those of you with long or large slides, have you noticed that the drive side seals much tighter in the open position than on the passive side? I followed the Lippert instruction manual to try to sync both sides and I do feel better now that the room at least touches and possibly compresses the seal at least slightly. I would feel much better with another 1/4 or 1/2. By the way, this is at the bottom corner, the top and probably 3/4 of the way down the seal is pretty good.
Is this normal or do all the other slides in the world close/seal perfectly?
Thank you!
|
|
|
07-08-2011, 10:07 AM
|
#2
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
|
TC, they should close and seal completely. Sounds like a bit more adjustment is needed. There are two things to look into here.
One is the adjustment of the slides on the big rails. That might be what you did?
The other has to do with that long square rod that goes cross-wise. That's what drives the passive side to keep it in sync with the active side. You probably know that already but I can't tell that so I'm describing it, just in case, and hoping not to offend you.
In each end of that rod is a shear pin, a bolt. Try removing that bolt from one end. You may have to move the slide out a little and push on one end to remove the tension so you can remove the bolt. Then either use the slide switch to move the active end just a little and reconnect the rod and try it out. One turn might be enough. It can be tricky getting things lined up so try moving the rod with a wrench. If that won't work, then have someone bumping the switch. If you have the slide room lockouts to keep the other slides from moving, that simplifies things a bit.
Keep in mind this approach will also affect alignment inside when the slide is fully extended. So, if that part is already perfectly aligned then this approach won't help and you'll be back to adjusting the slide at the end of the main rails.
Good luck. Please let us know how this issue resolves for you. I'm sure it will be helpful to the rest of us, too.
|
|
|
07-08-2011, 10:32 AM
|
#3
|
Established Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Smithville
Posts: 26
M.O.C. #11176
|
Steve...thank you for your suggestion and absolutely no offense taken. I noticed the square tube running between the room ends and the shear pin you're talking about. I was thinking if I could some how roll the passive side out/open 4 teeth this would do it. However, your idea of rolling the drive side in/back might work better. Here's why I think the passive side is trailing on the way out. As stated before, it doesn't compress the seal on the inside as much as the drive side and, furthermore, I noticed on the passive side where the outside face is connected to the slide out box, two screw heads were sheared off. In other words, if the passive side comes out last, then it goes in first and stressed these fasteners while closing/compressing the outside seal. I will report back when I get a chance to work on it more but at least I know now not to be satisfied. I don't need to leak A/C when it's 105 degrees outside in Texas.
|
|
|
07-08-2011, 11:15 AM
|
#4
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Navarre
Posts: 1,527
M.O.C. #9765
|
You might want to consider letting the dealer adjust the slides to suit you. Watch the procedure if able. Just a thought since it appears you are under warrenty.
Mike
|
|
|
07-08-2011, 03:14 PM
|
#5
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
|
TC, it's possible you need to adjust both the square tube and then the outside wall (again). In any case, I'm not sure whether the manual says but Dale (MIMF), who used to be our Lippert representative before he changed jobs, showed me that I should move the slide part way out, maybe 1/3 or more, make the adjustments, then shake the heck out of the slide to make it move to the new settings. Then snug it up and test it. I'm talking the main settings, not the square tube. When he and I did it we sure rocked the rig but that's the way it's supposed to be done.
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|