more help on black\gray valve replacement

[Michael J.]

Well I'm back, dropped belly pan and after rain of sawdust, plastic, wood cutouts, screws and spaghetti of wires (factory ever hear of zip ties?) I found my black and gray valves, easy to get to however they are 3 inch hubs one side glued to tank the other a street 90 the to tank connecting tee, noted a 3 inch hose clamp with glue squeezed through it, between valve and tank. not much pipe left at tank, seems valve hub would need to be chiseled off tank pipe unless I'm missing something, have no issue fitting pipe but concern is where the valve is glued to tank, anyone been there? Oh and yes I will properly support hanging wires, water supplies and other items hanging or rubbing on frame, what a mess, but typically would never see it by the average buyer.

[rohrmann]

You don't cut or chisel off anything. The valve is the part in between the two square flanges, and with this system, it helps to loosen the bolts for both the grey and black valves, and the two elbows can be moved away from the valves, allowing you to replace both, then move the two elbows back against the new valves, install the bolts and tighten, and you are good to go.

[Carl n Susan]

If I understand correctly what you describe then somebody was there before you. The hose clamp with glue squeezed out is not standard. Someone fixed (?) a leak/crack where the spud connects to the tank. The spud and tank are integral and can't be replaced individually. If it doesn't leak, then leave it alone.

The hub on the downstream side usually has a 90 degree ell which connects to a wye (along with the drain line from the other tank. Those things are put together in place from the tank out and the Old World's Craftsmen don't leave any slop. While many have replaced the valve in place, it is a tight fit and bent seals are common. I would cut the pipe downstream of the wye and take out a 1/2" or so. This provides some slop so the replacement valve goes in easily. Use a 3" rubber nohub connector to close the gap between the cut pipes.

On Edit: once again Bob proves to be a faster typist than I.

[Michael J.]

Originally Posted by rohrmann

You don't cut or chisel off anything. The valve is the part in between the two square flanges, and with this system, it helps to loosen the bolts for both the grey and black valves, and the two elbows can be moved away from the valves, allowing you to replace both, then move the two elbows back against the new valves, install the bolts and tighten, and you are good to go.

Ok, valves just looked like the hub needed to go too, plan to replace both valves since I'm in the space, once I take bolts out should be more evident, just wanted to be prepared for worst case. will need to check kitchen faucet\drain as I noticed there was some water on belly pan. Thanks for help once again!

[Michael J.]

Originally Posted by carl n susan

If I understand correctly what you describe then somebody was there before you. The hose clamp with glue squeezed out is not standard. Someone fixed (?) a leak/crack where the spud connects to the tank. The spud and tank are integral and can't be replaced individually. If it doesn't leak, then leave it alone.

The hub on the downstream side usually has a 90 degree ell which connects to a wye (along with the drain line from the other tank. Those things are put together in place from the tank out and the Old World's Craftsmen don't leave any slop. While many have replaced the valve in place, it is a tight fit and bent seals are common. I would cut the pipe downstream of the wye and take out a 1/2" or so. This provides some slop so the replacement valve goes in easily. Use a 3" rubber nohub connector to close the gap between the cut pipes.

On Edit: once again Bob proves to be a faster typist than I.

Lol, good information just happen to have a 3 inch no hub connector on the shelf. leaning towards electric valves if bolt pattern is same with valve vertical instead of horizontal (currently), can reach the manual option if needed but will require moving items in storage and holding up others in line. thanks again!

[Michael J.]

well bob was right no chiseling!!!! Grey water valve out went easy, enough play on lines didn't need to cut anything...…...yet. Valve itself seemed new cable not so much, liking electric valve idea incase of another cable failure I can still open manually, order tomorrow thanks again for the help, not a bad job after all.