Hot Water Heater Anode Removal - Final Update

[steves]

Orv: Put a piece of pipe over the breaker bar for more leverage. If it doesn't come out then I'm stumped!

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by steves

Orv: Put a piece of pipe over the breaker bar for more leverage. If it doesn't come out then I'm stumped!

Thanks. With my lack of strength since back surgery I'd probably need a piece of pipe six feet long! I'm going to wait a little while longer and then try again when I'm a little stronger.

Orv

[Illini Trekker]

Also Orv if the socket still wants to ride off the head of the rod you could grind off the tapered part of the socket to keep from rounding off the anode rod head?

[noneck]

ols1932...if you were next door we'd be happy to work on it for you, I know others are dying to fix it for ya.

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by Illini Trekker

Also Orv if the socket still wants to ride off the head of the rod you could grind off the tapered part of the socket to keep from rounding off the anode rod head?

This sounds like a great idea. I'm considering that.

Orv

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by noneck

ols1932...if you were next door we'd be happy to work on it for you, I know others are dying to fix it for ya.

Yes, knowing what I know about members of the forum, I'm sure I'd get help if any of you were near. BTW, we're at Catalina Spa & RV Park in Desert Hot Springs, CA.

Orv

[sreigle]

I like the teflon tape idea and will use it next time.

It used to be in other applications when a bolt could not be removed you could hit the head with some heat, like a portable propane torch. The heat would slightly shrink the bolt, allowing it to then be turned out. I don't know if the metals in the water heater could stand that heat. Anyone know?

[noneck]

I use both...wire brush threads clean (as I've been reusing mine for last 2 seasons), 3 - 4 wraps of teflon tape, thin coating of a teflon paste (bought teflon paste as its compatible with LP gas). Works great!

[simonsrf]

Hey Orv,

We're at the MOC Lakes Siskiyou Rally at Mount Shasta, CA. We're only 709 miles or about 10 hrs. and 39 minutes away from you. If you would come here, I'll get that annode rod out for you. Also, I have lots of teflon tape so you won't need to worry about buying any.

Robbie

[grampachet]

I always use teflon tape and only tighten it up using a 10" crescent wrench end-wise. A screwdriver through the hole in the handle and the wrench straight out, not at all like it is made to be used. I have never tightened it up as tight as it sonds like everyone else does. As long as it doesnt leak I figured it was tight enough.

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by grampachet

I always use teflon tape and only tighten it up using a 10" crescent wrench end-wise. A screwdriver through the hole in the handle and the wrench straight out, not at all like it is made to be used. I have never tightened it up as tight as it sonds like everyone else does. As long as it doesnt leak I figured it was tight enough.

That's the amount it's supposed to be tightened--tight enough not to leak. I don't know why the manufacturer tightened it so tight that it's practically impossible to remove. We're still working on it.

Orv

[rames14]

Orv -

As a young apprentice (that's a few years ago), someone had loctited a counterweight on a shaft. I used heat to vaporize the loctite and then was able to back it off. However, heat causes things to get larger, not smaller. If you were installing a bushing in a hole, you would heat the hole and cool the bushing. Applying a little heat around the hole (not to the anode), could vaporize rust or other items that could be impeding you from removing the anode. If you have your torque wrench for the wheels and a 1 1/16 socket, you have a good start. A neighbor with a strong back is a good second. Another option is to drill out the center of the anode. If the breaker bar didn't get it, then this would be my next option up until I got to the size of the threads.

[ols1932]

Finally got the old anode out, just in time--it was almost gone! It had been in operation 21 months and I like to change it at least once a year. Had to grind a 6-point socket down to where it was flush, no bevel on the edges. The anode shoulders were so narrow and close to the wall of the water heater that the normal socket just didn't get a good enough bite. It then took a strong man with a 2-foot breaker bar in order to get it out. But it's done. Thanks for all the inputs.

Orv

[rames14]

Glad to hear all was successful. Good luck and don't forget the teflon tape.

[Ozz]

Glad you got it out, I think all of us wanted to jump in and help you out.

[noneck]

Yes, this was killing me...Wahoo! If that thing was buried that deep no wonder you were stuck. Clearly, you know how to manage it now as DIY would not have put you in this bind.

[Still_waters]

I remove my anode rod after every trip. I think that helps to extend the life of it. And of course this also means draning the water tank after every use. Don't know if this is necessary but it just makes me feel better.

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by Still_waters

I remove my anode rod after every trip. I think that helps to extend the life of it. And of course this also means draning the water tank after every use. Don't know if this is necessary but it just makes me feel better.

Before we were full time, we used to drain the water heater after every trip also because I didn't want the water to stagnate in the heater. However, now I don't think it's necessary unless the rig is going to set idle for an extended period of time.

Orv

[HughM]

Draining the water heater each trip wouldn't work for me. I would forget to fill the water heater with water and turn on the electric and blow an element.
I think I'll stick with once a year.
Hugh

[Illini Trekker]

Great to hear the grinding the socket down helped. Sounds like you nearly turned to trailer over to get the rod out. LOL See Ya