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07-24-2009, 03:54 PM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Frostproof
Posts: 512
M.O.C. #7125
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QUESTION FOR THE ELECTRICIANS
My RV has a switch inside to turn the hot water on electric (the switch outside has to be on). The switch is a single pole on the hot side of the circuit. I want to replace it with a pilot switch that lights up when I turn the electric on. Switch on inside, switch on outside, power to the heating element - works OK. Switch on inside, switch OFF outside, no power to the heating element - still OK but, the inside switch lights up indicating it is on - Still OK, but not what I want. What I want is a pilot light switch that indicates there is a working load, in other words, when both inside and outside switches are on, and for some reason the element goes open or the thermal switch opens, the switch won't light and I'll know I have a problem. Any ideas on how to wire this setup, or what kind of pilot switch to use. Also would like to wire this without adding any wires to the HW tank. Thanks , Kerry
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07-25-2009, 02:33 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,372
M.O.C. #8728
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Kerry,
Without looking at the complete circuit (which could be a problem in itself) I doubt that this could be accomplished without running more wiring. There are new electronic gadgets coming on the market all the time though that can do things we didn't think could be done. I'd do a little internet research to see what is available.
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07-26-2009, 04:55 AM
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#3
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: East Moriches
Posts: 418
M.O.C. #6436
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You would have to either run a separate wire from the load side of the switch on the water heater or a wire from the hot side of the water heater element to the pilot light on the inside switch.
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07-26-2009, 06:13 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Leona
Posts: 6,382
M.O.C. #2059
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I am confused. My outside switch, in the "on" position turns on the electric heater element and it runs through a breaker. The inside switch is a toggle which turns on the propane igniting and flow electronics and glows red. Outside the breaker, I know of no other switch for the electric element inside the coach. But of course yours may be wired differently.
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07-26-2009, 07:18 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location:
Posts: 560
M.O.C. #8818
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Stiles,
On my '09, there are two switches inside the trailer for the water heater, both switches have lights inside them that indicate when they are turned on. One switch is for propane operation, and the other is for the electric element. There is also another switch for the electric element on the outside of the trailer, accessible through the vented access door. Also, there is the circuit breaker in the electrical panel as well.
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07-26-2009, 01:13 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Frostproof
Posts: 512
M.O.C. #7125
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My 5W is wired with a toggle switch inside to turn the HW heater from inside without having to go out side and flip the switch. you can leave the outside switch in the ON position and turn it ON and OFF with the switch in side. All I'm wanting to do is put in a pilot switch IPO the existing switch, and wire it so I would be able to use it as a trouble shooting aid to tell me if the element goes open or the reset breaker needs reset. Kerry
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07-26-2009, 02:09 PM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: East Moriches
Posts: 418
M.O.C. #6436
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Unless the circuit breaker trips, if the element burned open there would still be 115 volts across the element. The only way to see if it is open is with an ohm meter or an amp meter. The pilot light would still be lit.
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07-26-2009, 03:07 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Frostproof
Posts: 512
M.O.C. #7125
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If I use a volt meter, test each side to ground, I would be able to know if the element was open.
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07-26-2009, 04:01 PM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: East Moriches
Posts: 418
M.O.C. #6436
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No. The only way is as I said above. If the element burned out you would still get 115 volts to ground on the hot side. On the neutral you would never get any voltage to ground (the neutral and ground are connected to the same terminal at the main panel.) Think of it as cutting the element in half. You would still have voltage accross it but no current would flow. However sometimes you may get a resistance reading through the water and rust.
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07-26-2009, 05:55 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Frostproof
Posts: 512
M.O.C. #7125
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If the element was good, would I not see 110 on both sides of the element if I tested to ground? If it was open, only 110 on the hot side?
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07-28-2009, 04:39 PM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: East Moriches
Posts: 418
M.O.C. #6436
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If the element was good and you removed the neutral (white wire) then you would read 115 volts to ground on both termonals. (BUT BE CAREFUL)
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07-28-2009, 06:10 PM
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#12
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Jose
Posts: 389
M.O.C. #2277
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I understand the issue. I used an illuminated residential switch. The problem is that it's illuminated when the switch is OFF. I've looked all over the place for a switch of this type that illuminates when it's ON, but from a logical standpoint if it was hooked up to a light (light switch, right?) that would not make sense. I'm kinda stuck with a residential style switch.
I put a label on the switch. ON/OFF
BTW, check your local Radio Shack. All you really need is a 120v 12A (wild guess) illuminated SPST switch.
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07-29-2009, 10:19 AM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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07-29-2009, 10:45 AM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Frostproof
Posts: 512
M.O.C. #7125
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The switch is not the issue. Either a Levitron 1201-PLC, SPST, or a 1221-PLC DPST will work in the circuit, both light when turned ON. My quest is to wire the circuit to trouble shoot itself; to have it not not light when turned on if the element is open, or if the reset button operates. Kerry
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