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Old 03-27-2005, 01:23 PM   #1
Montana_452
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Slide Problem

I have been the proud owner of a 3280RL Montana for over two years and have enjoyed reading the discussions. In the past week I have had my first ever problems with our Montana. Last weekend while camping I noticed a small leak coming from one of the two hoses going up through the floor from the left storage area. My first thought was that the tubing had froze and busted because I had forget to open the washer valves to allow the antifreeze to fill the lines. No washer installed and the washer closet is used for storage so the washers lines were completly overlooked when I winterized. After I cut a hole in the closet wall and removed part of the tubing I discovered that a staple/nail had pearced the tubing were the hose goes through the floor. Took two years and a few hundred miles to work its way through the tubing.

My major concern is with the large slide out. Yesterday my wife went out to get somthing out of the camper and started puting the sides out and the large slide started making a very loud scraping sound at which time she stopped and called me (I was already on my way because I heard the noise as well). The large slide had came out uneven and the back end was scraping the wall. I don't know how or why but the slide seems to have shifted off center. The camper was on a level pad and when closed last weekend the camper was also level. I was able to get the slide in by pushing on the outside end that protuded the farthest. Has anyone else had a problem with the extension/ retraction of their slides?

 
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Old 03-27-2005, 03:10 PM   #2
rames14
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JB -
Haven't had an issue, but having seen how they are assembled at the factory, I must assume a bolt(s) came out or there is something wrong with the slide mechanism itself. When the slide is installed, it goes something like this:

1. The slide room itself is built off line. They actually cut out the sidewall and then build a room around it.

2. Picture your unit with the slide completely out of the unit. The frame (manufactured by Lippert), has a square tubed frame that pulls out.

3. The assemblers lift the slide room that was built off-line and place it on top of the metal structure that slides in and out of the Lippert frame.

4. The slide room is bolted to this structure and the slide is connected to the mechanism to bring the slide in and out.

It would seem that either something came loose on the frame (weld) or the bolts sheared off allowing the slide to rotate out of position. Hope that you are able to get it fixed quickly and easily. Did you damage any of the sidewall of the slide room?
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Old 03-27-2005, 04:05 PM   #3
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JB


It sounds like you sheared off a shear pin or bolt on the end you had to push on to get it in. There is a shift that go's from one square tube to the other tube with gears on each end. If so which is an easy fix, just get the slide straight and replace the broken pin or bolt. Make sure you get it straight use a tape measure. That is what I would check first, good luck.

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Old 03-27-2005, 11:20 PM   #4
Montana_452
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To Rames14 and Cruzin2, thanks for the comments. No the wall wasn't damaged and I'm on my way to have it fixed this morning.
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Old 03-28-2005, 02:48 AM   #5
RonS
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Please let us know what the fix was. I also have the 3280RL, and continue to have problems in COLD weather.
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Old 03-28-2005, 05:55 AM   #6
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Yes, please let us know about the fix. We all like to learn more. Larry & LaVonne
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Old 03-28-2005, 11:33 AM   #7
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OK JB,

Some of the post are correct here. If one end of the slide room kept moving and the other end had stopped, it sounds like the bolt that goes thru the cross shaft broke.

Look under the room and back by the frame "I" beam, you will see a square shaft that is 1" square. It runs parallel with the frame "I" beam. It is connected at each end to the gear pack assemblies. These gear pack assemblies and that square shaft keep the room in timing from end to end when it is moving in or out. The bolts that go thru at each end of the square shaft also go thru the gear pack shaft. They are 11/2X1/4-20 grade 8 bolts with ny-lock nuts. We typically use zinc-plated to control corrosion.

Go down to you favorite hardware store or Lowes or Home Depot and buy those bolts and nylon insert lock nuts. Buy several sets as spares because, as time goes by, you may need them. Keep 'em in your TV.

Get your room at a distance that is the same from the sidewall at both ends. You can usually use an "Arkansas-Fits-All" to rotate the shaft one direction no more than 1/4 turn to insert the new bolt and nut and snug her up. By the way, that would be an adjustable or Cresent wrench. Not a pipe or "monkey wrench".

If you need further help, call me at Lippert Components, 574-537-8900 ext 4303. I'll do what ever I have to to help.
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Old 03-28-2005, 03:29 PM   #8
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Thanks MIMF, I took Monty to Browns RV in McBee SC for repair this morning. They are suppose to check it out and call me in the morning after they investagate on what the problem is. They were thinking that it was a hyd.cyl. or equalizer valve. I like your suggestion and will buy some of the bolts to have on hand even if not the problem, but I think you are probably right. Thanks
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Old 03-29-2005, 01:41 AM   #9
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MIMF thank you for the great info. i am one of those who likes to take care of a problem if i can. this type of info really helps. thanks again.
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:22 AM   #10
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JB,

Equalizer valve? What the heck is an equalizer valve? You don't need no stinking equalizer valve! Before they get a bunch of time and money into your coach that Keystone and us are going to be hard pressed to pay, those guys need to call me. Give them my phone number. 574-537-8900 ext 4303. If they don't know what to do, they are supposed to call. Our 866 number is on the side of the oil reservoir.
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:44 AM   #11
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MIMF, I called Brown's RV and without mentioning what you had said, they had found a bolt sheared. The individual who thought it might be something hyd. was just guessing, he even stated that he would'nt know until a tech. had looked at it. Had I known that it was just a bolt I could have saved myself some time and fuel. I will have spare bolts from now on with me. Now, please tell me what could have caused the bolt to shear. As previously stated, the camper was level when it was being extended, and it always is or within a bubble. Thanks
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Old 03-29-2005, 01:40 PM   #12
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JB

Just glad your wife didn't hold the slide button in and try to keep it going, great job wife. How far is it to your dealer? Ours is about 160 miles away. Glad that was all it was, that's what I thought is was.
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:55 AM   #13
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Thanks, we went and bought some bolts, just in case. We had a bolt break on our previous 5er so I know it can happen. I figure that if I have the bolts I won't need them, If I don't have them I will need them. You know what they say about Boy Scouts, always be prepared.
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:31 AM   #14
Montana_452
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Cruzin 2, My dealer is aprox. 50 miles from my home. Had I had known it was a bolt I would have fixed it myself and saved about ten gallons of fuel. At .27 each, I spurged and purchased Four bolts to have on hand.
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Old 03-30-2005, 10:34 AM   #15
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JB,

It could be a couple reasons why that bolt would break. It is designed as a grade 8 bolt, which is case hardened, to be the weak point in the system. Better to have that break than something much more expensive. Case hardening means that the out side of the bolt inward to a certain depth is hardened.

If you or any body else out there in Montana Land ever have any questions, don't hesitate to call me at the office.
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:39 PM   #16
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MIMF,

Is there any adjustment to the height of the slide from the floor as it goes in and out? Mine is dragging the carpet on one end. The white plastic that the slide rides on seems to be worn on that end. Is there a replacement for that plastic piece?

Thanks,
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Old 04-02-2005, 11:27 AM   #17
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fulltimedreamer,

Yes there are verticle adjustments on the rooms. If the wear bar in the ramp is worn, verticle adjustment to the room may not help. The best thing you could do would be to take your coach to a reputable dealer or repair facility and have the wear bar in the ramp replaced.
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Old 04-07-2005, 04:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by MIMF

fulltimedreamer,

Yes there are verticle adjustments on the rooms. If the wear bar in the ramp is worn, verticle adjustment to the room may not help. The best thing you could do would be to take your coach to a reputable dealer or repair facility and have the wear bar in the ramp replaced.
MIMF,

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I have been out of town for the last week. Thanks for the response.

Can you tell me more about the adjustments? I basically need to gain about an 1/8th of an inch to stop the dragging. I would like to attempt this myself as I am no longer under warranty. Is there a document I can refer to for making adjustments? Also, how hard would it be to replace the wear bar myself?

Thanks,
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Old 04-08-2005, 09:55 AM   #19
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MIMF, great info. I'm also going to buy some of those bolts, just to ensure we never have the problem. I wanted to check with you to make sure the same bolts are used on our 2003 (early model) 3295RK. Sounds like JB's is roughly the same age but thought I'd check. I don't want to need the bolt and find I have the wrong ones.

Thanks.
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