The old fry the heater element with no water trick - Montana Owners Club

bncinwv · 11-30-2009, 07:29 AM

At least I had a different take on it. I thought I had it under control. On our way south, we stopped at Nashville for an overnight, and I knew DW would insist on a shower the next morning prior to departing. So at midnight, I am through hooking up, mental checklist complete, and I did remember that winterize and hot water bypass were engaged. Where I made my mistake was I guess I inadvertantly only turned one of them (not the hot water by-pass of course!!). So after what I thought were the proper precautions, I turned the HW heater on and went to bed. I am awakened the next morning by DW who stated that there is no hot water. So after checking everything, I discovered the apparent mistake since the hot water bypass was still engaged. Knowing that the oversight had fried the element, I turned the outside switch off and went inside to turn the propane switch on. Thank goodness for dual systems, as we still had the whole week to go, where we obviously used the propane to provide hot water. This mistake is being posted for those who may want to try to avoid one of my mistakes (one of many), but I would just as soon prevent problems for MOCers as solve them.
Bingo

stiles watson · 11-30-2009, 10:01 AM

Ahhhh, the ubiquitous learning curve, even for the experienced.

Bill-N-Donna · 11-30-2009, 10:37 AM

Thanks Bingo for the post!
It could have happened to any of us.

Waynem · 11-30-2009, 12:15 PM

Sounds like something I could do. (And I don't want to.)

Thanks

PSFORD99 · 11-30-2009, 02:19 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by bncinwv

At least I had a different take on it. I thought I had it under control. On our way south, we stopped at Nashville for an overnight, and I knew DW would insist on a shower the next morning prior to departing. So at midnight, I am through hooking up, mental checklist complete, and I did remember that winterize and hot water bypass were engaged. Where I made my mistake was I guess I inadvertantly only turned one of them (not the hot water by-pass of course!!). So after what I thought were the proper precautions, I turned the HW heater on and went to bed. I am awakened the next morning by DW who stated that there is no hot water. So after checking everything, I discovered the apparent mistake since the hot water bypass was still engaged. Knowing that the oversight had fried the element, I turned the outside switch off and went inside to turn the propane switch on. Thank goodness for dual systems, as we still had the whole week to go, where we obviously used the propane to provide hot water. This mistake is being posted for those who may want to try to avoid one of my mistakes (one of many), but I would just as soon prevent problems for MOCers as solve them.
Bingo

The burned element will not let you plug into A house GFI, unless you have unwired it. I have been down that road its shorts to ground, even switching the breaker off on the water heater will not allow it be plugged in to a GFI. Do make sure you tape or prevent the wires from touching something or each other. One more pointer the replacement element from camping world is around thirty dollars, from Lowes or Home Depot is around 10 dollars, just make sure of the wattage 1000 watts or 1500 watts. Mine was 1440 watts, I replaced with a 1500 watt element.

I have had an electric RV water heater for a lot of years, but yes I finally fried one, It was pretty easy to do. The thing I did not used to do was leave my RV plugged in all winter, I do now, so you probably know the rest of the story . First think I did was drain the water heater for winterizing, of course I didn't turn the switch off, and like I said I leave it plugged in, well there went the element. Of course that is when I found out it was no longer getting any electricity, because it blew the GFI breaker. I am sure I can find other ways to burn it , but for now I hope I won't do it the same way as I did.

bncinwv · 11-30-2009, 02:52 PM

Is there any danger to having the rig hooked up to a non-GFCI outlet as I do until I can get to the heater element?? I wouldn't think so, since all that should be happening is current going to ground without the element cicuit completed. Any disagreement?? The marvel of this forum never ceases to amaze me!!
Bingo

Bill-N-Donna · 11-30-2009, 03:29 PM

Bingo, just a few thoughts here…
I would check the breaker for the water heater and make sure it is in the tripped position. You could also trip any of the un-necessary breakers that may be on to help lighten the load. I don’t know what all you’re trying to carry on the electric but if you have the refrigerator on you could empty it out and shut that off.

grampachet · 11-30-2009, 07:41 PM

You need the Monte I purchased. The man who did the pdi insisted that there was a safety feature that would not allow the heater to burn out if you left/turned it on with no water in the heater. I told him he was wrong but he insisted he was correct. I asked him if he would buy me a new one if it burned out and he actually said he would. I will not try it and did not make him sign a "burnout" contract so I will just try and not follow Bingo's example.

Tom S. · 11-30-2009, 10:38 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by grampachet

You need the Monte I purchased. The man who did the pdi insisted that there was a safety feature that would not allow the heater to burn out if you left/turned it on with no water in the heater. I told him he was wrong but he insisted he was correct. I asked him if he would buy me a new one if it burned out and he actually said he would. I will not try it and did not make him sign a "burnout" contract so I will just try and not follow Bingo's example.

The man was right. The "safety feature" can be found between your ears.

OntMont · 12-01-2009, 02:55 AM

I do recall that the Suburban rep at one of our Goshen rallies said that there are two elements available for the HW heater. The OEM one is a cheaper (surprise!) high watt density heater that is more prone to burning out. The other has a lower watt density and will withstand "some" exposure to running dry. (Probably not all night though!). So far as I can figure out, watt density is just a matter of watts per inch of element, so the longer the element that you can fit in, the better. I would think that the lower watt density would also be less prone to scaling. Just remember that it is a 120 volt element that you want, most at Home Depot/Lowes etc will be 240 volt.

grampachet · 12-01-2009, 02:55 AM

Yes Tom you are correct, but with age and over-use sometimes the "safety feature" becomes a little corroded and I find it doesn't function properly.

PapaBeav · 12-01-2009, 07:09 AM

Great topic because I just got through replacing the anode this morning and it reminded me to fill the tank with water.

Rich

PSFORD99 · 12-01-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by OntMont

I do recall that the Suburban rep at one of our Goshen rallies said that there are two elements available for the HW heater. The OEM one is a cheaper (surprise!) high watt density heater that is more prone to burning out. The other has a lower watt density and will withstand "some" exposure to running dry. (Probably not all night though!). So far as I can figure out, watt density is just a matter of watts per inch of element, so the longer the element that you can fit in, the better. I would think that the lower watt density would also be less prone to scaling. Just remember that it is a 120 volt element that you want, most at Home Depot/Lowes etc will be 240 volt.

You are correct they do sell 240 volt, but they also sell 120 volt 1500 watt which will work fine in our water heaters. The cost at my local Home Depot is 8.97 Local camping world price was 29 something can not remember exact price, as I was not going to give that much for one.

jimcol · 12-04-2009, 01:32 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by bncinwv

Is there any danger to having the rig hooked up to a non-GFCI outlet as I do until I can get to the heater element?? I wouldn't think so, since all that should be happening is current going to ground without the element cicuit completed. Any disagreement?? The marvel of this forum never ceases to amaze me!!
Bingo

Bingo, the only risk is if you lose the ground on your incomming power feed. (Like running off a non grounded extension cord) W/O that ground the trailer chasis will become energized. Not a lot but enough to give you a tingle when touched. (or tightening lug nits). Do not ask me how I know this to be true!!!!

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