Belly Pan - Montana Owners Club

coupe31 · 09-02-2009, 05:07 AM

I was under my Montana the other day. (had a bad day with the wife) I noticed that there were very few screws holding that plastic material in place. Lots of gaps between the frame and the material for nasty stuff to get in. I was thinking I would buy a box of self tapping screws and some 1" wide alum. and make shure that the belly pan was air tight. Has anyone else done this? We live in Texas and there are a lot of things out behind the barn that can get in. Last year we had mice. We sold our 2007 Montana and bought a 2008. Don't want no more nasty mice.

richfaa · 09-02-2009, 05:23 AM

Yes..We added screws. Plugged up the big holes with foam insulaion. Used some Gorlla tape.. Remember you may have to take that pan down one day so the better you seal it the harder it will be to take it off. We have had no critters in the belly in three yeas.

8e3k0 · 09-02-2009, 07:13 AM

Fender washers may be better for removal later than the alum. strip.
If you install these every 6 to eight inches works well.

TLightning · 09-02-2009, 07:59 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by richfaa

Yes..We added screws. Plugged up the big holes with foam insulaion. Used some Gorlla tape.. Remember you may have to take that pan down one day so the better you seal it the harder it will be to take it off. We have had no critters in the belly in three yeas.

I did the exact same thing. I put a screw between each one of the factory's. Gorilla tape is good stuff...until you try to get it off.

boje · 09-02-2009, 08:42 AM

I had a ram seal fail on my unit, and ATF saturated the belly. After the problem was fixed, and the belly reattached, I took off on a road trip. During the trip, the ATF had some sort of reaction to the material the belly is made of. It started to sag somewhat, and the seals along the frame started to seperate. This was behind the duel tires. The reason I bring that up, is that we drove about two hours in the rain. The spray from the tires was making its way into the belly through the areas where the belly had seperated from the frame. A good seal is a must.

Dealer to replace the belly at no charge to me.

coupe31 · 09-03-2009, 03:45 AM

It looks like I have a good weekend project ahead of me. My new hammer drill will get a good workout. Thanks for the input.

SlickWillie · 09-03-2009, 04:02 AM

I used the aluminum like you mentioned across the back of our Mountaineer after the dealer cut the membrane for access. On our unit, the membrane is tucked under the rear wall of the RV, and the only way to access is cutting it. The aluminum works very well there, however, I think as mentioned, the fender washers would do a good job.

stiles watson · 09-03-2009, 05:14 AM

Just a thought, while you want to keep the critters out, in my opinion, you don't want to seal it so well that if you have some kind of overflow incident, the water can't get out. Because I failed to open the after market slide valve on the end of the discharge pipe, we had the washer overflow. The leakiness of the unit allowed the overflow to leak out without any significant amount collecting. We have now provided a drain pipe from the washer closet through the floor and out the bottom, but a broken line could cause the same issue.

Have you all figured out that when you solve one problem, you create one or more new ones? We too have made efforts to foam up holes with particular attention to where vermin may find ingress. I have only added screws where there is a definite sag.

richfaa · 09-03-2009, 01:03 PM

Since we are on the subject. There are at least two of us, Stiles and myself, who can,due to a oversight, let the belly fill up with water. After a couple of such over sights we did the following. (note it was clean water) Once the belly was full of water we crawled under the camper and noted where the significant sags were denoting where the water had collected. We then drilled 1/2 inch holes is the approprate places to let the water drain ( again...make sure you do ths with clean water) once the belly had dained and dried out we covered the holes with squares of Gorilla tape. We now have drain holes that can be uncovered in the event of future "oversights". Did I mention that you should only do this with clean water./////

dsprik · 09-03-2009, 01:50 PM

I don't have that problem... When I do something stupid (washer w/ closed gate valve) or have a grey tank (both of them) crack at the top, My neighbors know it right away... Sounds like a water fall.

Then again, I do have a dead squirrel in my ceiling...

Ozz · 09-04-2009, 04:20 PM

Use a pilot drill first, a drill the size of the self tapping screw (Body) your task will be much easier. Then power the screws in using a magnetic screw holding bit.

HamRad · 09-04-2009, 07:29 PM

Ozz,
The pilot hole is a good idea but we found the steel to be soft enough to easily take the self tapping screws. But probably much easier using your suggestion.

Dennis

Ozz · 09-05-2009, 12:39 PM

Dennis, I'm just lazy..

simonsrf · 09-05-2009, 01:34 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by HamRad

Ozz,
The pilot hole is a good idea but we found the steel to be soft enough to easily take the self tapping screws. But probably much easier using your suggestion.

Dennis

Dennis! Did you say Ozz? Ozz who? I haven't seen anyone on here for a long time named Ozz... Heard he has good suggestions! Please try to stay on topic!

tbhd2 · 09-05-2009, 05:49 PM

There are holes in the frame where the hydraulic cylinders extend to push the slides in or out. These holes are quite large and are direct entry into the "belly". Sealing the belly pan is not going to keep the critters out.

sreigle · 09-06-2009, 05:54 AM

I agree with tightening up the belly where it overlaps and connects to the frame. And I agree with doing something with the larger holes to keep the critters out. But I'd suggest using a fine piece of screen material or something similar that will still allow airflow as well as allow an exit for water. The reason is the furnace has a 2-inch duct in the belly to keep tanks and lines from freezing. When you blow air into a space there has to be somewhere for it to exit or the pressure will build up and the airflow will slow, as well as creating some backpressure and extra work for the furnace. Think of blowing into a balloon that has reached its maximum diameter.

Since we do spend some time in subfreezing weather occasionally we need that heat flow through the basement. I'd not totally seal it up as that reduces the effectiveness of the heat duct in the belly.

JimF · 09-06-2009, 08:53 AM

Guess I was lucky and a little forwarned from our previous unit. I saw the underbelly gaps on initial inspection and told the dealer I wouldn't take the unit until the belly was sealed. With 4 people working on it it took the dealer about 30 minutes to seal it. They used butle-rubber caulk and more screws. Left the hole for the slide rams open to give the basement a place to "breath" for winter operation as mentioned by Steve. Been through 3 winters with no freeze up, of course we leave the real cold county before the snow flyes.

DonandJudy_12 · 09-27-2009, 04:31 PM

A previously owned SOB had an aluminum strap screwed over the belly pan to the frame and crossmembers- The belly pan was quite well sealed- I think I may put this project on my "To do" list when I have fully recovered from my back surgery- Don

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