Water supply shut off valve modification

[Drifty1]

I have noticed a lot of members are have some trouble with the toilet valve not stopping the flow of water which causes the black tank to over flow. Also have noticed some folks have been turning the water off at the post when they leave their trailer for the day as some have come home to a flooded trailer. So I though I would experiment with the idea of adding a 12 volt solenoid valve to the water supply outside the trailer. I am going to try the following setup which will be tied to a switch inside the trailer where I can shut off the supply water when ever I would like.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1136486...67171882401826

I also am trying a 1/4" 12 volt valve mounted by the water pump which will let me recirculate hot water thru the trailer so it does not take so long to get water to the shower and bathroom sink. This valve is controlled by a switch which is located by the bathroom sink. Both valves came from Amazon..

[DQDick]

That's a couple of interesting ideas. Will be interested in your thoughts and pictures when you're done.

[rohrmann]

Does the solenoid valve you are using on the hose require constant voltage to hold it either open or closed? Just wondering about any constant drain on the batteries. The idea about a hot water circulation system is good if you use a lot of water to get a faucet hot, but will require a return line to circulate the water, I think. Fortunately, our tub/shower faucet is directly above the water heater, hot water is almost instant, and the vanity sinks are just a short distance across the hallway, so don't use much to get hot. Sounds like the long winter has given you a lot of time to think up these mods

[Overlord]

My shower faucet is maybe 2 feet, at the most, of PEX away from the HWH. ....and kitchen sink is 3-1/2 feet of PEX away, tops. Not much point in recirculating that. The hot water to the shower faucet, however, does need a back flow preventer added to eliminate cold water from back filling it when you shut the flow off at the shower head when doing "Navy Showers", otherwise you get a cold surprise when you re-start the flow.

[Bigboomer]

I like the idea of a 12v valve. With our present 'Tana I did install a ball valve at the toilet after it overflowed and with our new coach due to deliver in May this maybe something to consider in lieu of the manual valve (beats having to bend down to open and close the valve).

[Drifty1]

Sorry about taking so long to get back online. I am taking a couple of dirt bikes and son in laws truck to Ukahia Ca. So I am on the road today.
The valve needs 12volt to hold open and I will take a amp reading when I get back home. The valve I installed for the hot water system for right not is tied into the hot water that feeds my outside shower. This is the end of my system and is close to the water pump and fill location. I tied the outlet of the valve into the vent from the water tank about 36" from the fill station. This tank vent I hope will drain the recirc water back to the tank without puking water out the vent hole. I am going to mount a temp probe to the water line under the sink so I can see when the water temp starts to go up at which I will shut the valve off with the switch. It is about 20' to my water heater so it takes some time to get hot water back to shower.
We'll time to get back on the road....

[rapidrobert]

It seems like the exposure is to the toilet. How about putting electric shutoff valve to toilet water line? Install a momentary switch in bathroom to turn on water only when you want to flush? Seems this would protect you at all times. If you can find a valve that is in normally closed position would save drain on battery. Just a thought.

[Drifty1]

Yes u could install it on the toilet line. I did not look to see if they have a 3/8" which would be a better size. My main use will be to be able to shut off the water to the trailer when we leave for the day. Heck I can reach it from my lazy boy !